tcspeer

Thanks, I have connections with plenty of wrecking yards, thanks to the internet.

If your conscious is clear and it should be, then take them to small claims court. If they dont replace it I would send then a cert. letter and request replacement with the promise that you will seek to get it replaced by the court if they refuse. I agree with Nipper knocking rod is not the sign of an over heated engine. You hold the warranty it is them that will have to prove you are at fault. You say you are a grad student so learn to use the court system while you are young and dont wait until middle age like me. If you dont know how ask the clerk at the court they will guide you.

That sounds like an interesting job, I bet it would be a real pain doing that today with all of the security measures in place. Those conditions sound like what I work under brakes about three times a year. I also have been luckly on the starter so far same one. (knock on wood)

This is my third pump also, but as you know it's not much troble to change these thanks to just taking the cover off and not having to drop the tank. What were you doing to get get 300,000 miles on a Mercedes? It has took me ten years of mail dev. to get 320,000 miles on mine.

I guess that is the one with the black bar on it? Will the door have to come off? My nephew is a body man he may get this job.

Also check the brake slider pins, if the caliper is not sliding right it will make a noise when turning.

I have a problem I have not seen dicussed here before, my drivers door on my 98 Legacy wagon when opened will not catch like they are suppose to it will just swing back on you when tring to get out. Anyone know what needs to be done to fix this?

O.K. Nipper I checked and had current at the connector that plugs into fuel pump. Then I replaced pump with one from O'reillys and it starts and runs fine. It is not the best way to fix it, to much to change out, I had to change the lead wires to the pump and the seating pad where the pumps sets on the metal bracket. Much more easy to get pump assembly from wrecking yard and change the whole thing.

I got a new radiator for my 98 Legacy, I had a raditor shop order me a new one I think it cost around 130.00 dollars.

I think you also had the air bubble in the system, even if the radatior was not taken out most likly the hose was pulled off to make more room. I think you headgasket should be fine if you did not continue to drive after it got hot.

I had trouble taking one off with air and impact, it would just set there and make racket, so I finally decided to set the impact to fwd. then I hit it for a few seconds then I set it back to reverce and it came right off. You should be able to take the whole thing off at transmission by following the instructions in the Haynes manual for removing drive axle, and then adding to this step the removal of the strut flange bolts. But using the hammer and cheisel as stated above sounds like a good ideal also.

I dont know which engine you are working on but it sounds like the 2.5. The marks on the 2.2 belt if you line them up with the marks on the cam spockets covers and the line on the crank spocket and then rotate engine around a full turn they will not line back up again I dont know how many rotaions would be needed to get that to happen again but it had me concerned on my first belt change, but it started and ran fine. Also I have a In. torque wrench with the beam I got it from sears about fifteen years back I dont know if they still make them. I dont use it much, I like the clicker In. from Harbor Freight. It is to hard to read the beam wrench in most positions. If you will grab the crank pully at twelve and six and wriggle then grab at nine and three and do the same it should come off.

I agree it is most likely torque bind, but is after putting the fuse in if that dont stop the problem I would look at the big bushings on the back of the control arms, the one that bolts with two large bolts under the car about where the front of the front doors are. If grease is leaking out of these they are shot. I have torque bind problem now and have had these bushing out before and the symtoms are somewhat alike.

Check for wheel bearing play by jacking it up and pushing in and out at the 6:00 and 12:00 also spin wheel and listen. If you dont find anything there take caliper off and check pads for crack, if everything looks good you may have a rotor out of round.

Thanks I will check it tomorrow.

I still bet it is the fuel pump, I dont remember ever having to replace a relay in anything and I have been driving since the 60's. But if you insist I will test that first, I can take the one out of the other Subaru and try it, if I can find it, it did not show fuel pump relay or fuse on the cover of the box under the hood or the one in the kick panel.

Its worse than that, I paid 79.00 dollars for a wrecker to bring my car home (around 12 miles) without checking to see if Auto Zone had a fuel pump in stock, whats worse was my wife was telling me to call them which I did but coundn't get through so I didnt try again. After getting home I checked and they had one in stock and also O'Reily had one in stock. Now Nipper, you know I have a Haynes manual, but I thought someone here whould tell me where this fuse and relay is so I would not have to go out to hot shop and look something up. Also it never hurts me to buy unneeded parts as you know I have two Subaru 2.2 that I use on my high mileage job so it is only a matter of time until they are needed. This Subaru has 320,000 miles and has already went through the fuel pump that was on it plus one more if this one is indeed bad.

My 97 Subaru 2.2 quit on the road today, I pulled the fuel line off at the filter and it is getting no fuel, also their is no clicking from pump when I turn the key on. I plan to buy fuel pump tomorrow but is their a relay I should check first? I did not see anything for fuel pump in the fuse box under hood or in the one by the kick panel, anyone know if their is a relay for this?

I agree sounds like air in system, Subaru is the worst car I have every had for getting radaitor filled back up.

This was my thought also.

You can use carb. cleaner in the spray can or fuel inj. cleaner in spray can if they make it. I have carb. cleaner so that is what I use. If you have a Dig.volt multi meter you can test that coil by the instrictions in the Haynes manuel.

I know you have done a lot but I did not read where you cleaned the throttle body, I think that might be worth a try and dont cost much money. Also you can take the coil pack off and have Auto Zone test it for free. These thoughts may not help but they wont cost you much.

I have this same tool and yes it works good you dont even need a helper to hold anything their is enough leverage to take it off by yourself.

Go to Harbor Freight web site and type in manual tire changer in the search it will bring up a tire changer for around 50.00 dollars and you can add on a tire spreader for a few more dollars, and also a balancer for around 60.00 dollars more. I have all three and they are worth every penny. I can take a tire off and patch it and put it back on and balance it in just a few minutes why waste time and money fooling with a tire shop?

Rock Auto is very fast I had my struts in two days, do check them out they are cheaper on lots of parts you may need.