tcspeer

Hope it turns out well for you, we just replaced one in ours from the junk yard, seems fine now but I guess time will tell.

Thanks for the tip on where to get the transmission for my Legacy, I got it for 650.00 and it works great. Everywhere else I checked was closer to 1,000. If someone else is interested in used Subaru parts the # is 1-800 252-7045 they ship U.P.S. and they are located in Austin Tx. I priced drive axles their and they are 35.00 and spinde and hubs are also 35.00 much better prices than I have been buying parts from other yards.

I agree with frag, replace with rebuild, I have never been able to get the rubber boots to go in right when rebuilding.

I agree, it is a common problem with Subaru, and no answer has been found here yet. Mine does this also.

You may very well have to take the lock out to fix it, but I would try some Graphite lubricant first, you can get this at the auto parts store.

I have a 97 Legacy wagon 2.2 engine. I would find a 96 or older if I was you, Don't get interference engine when you can have non interference. I lost my first engine at 288,000 miles because of this, the idle pully came apart and the valves got into pistons. I know most people here make a big deal out of the tire depths but mine now has 315,000 miles and I have never kept my tire depth close, in fact I put a new tire on Saturday and Wal Mart gave me an auto quote for two tires because two of mine were under 6/32 of an in. Maybe I have just been lucky on this, but the advice you got here from the other posts is the advice you would get from top Subaru people so do what you think best.

Theflystyle, did you check your cables and make sure they are clean and tight at the battery?

After you jump start it take the battery cable off, if it dies your alt. most likely is not working. If it stays running, turn it off and clean the battery cables and reconnect if it dont charge up then take the battery back where you bought it and have them check it and probably exchange it for another one.

If you want to be 100% sure get one with the same numbers on the computer. If you will check with Rock Auto you can get them cheap if they have your number, go to their web site they have a really good and fast parts catalog.

Mine came apart easy also, rust is not to bad here.

To push hub out use 1-1/2 in. or 37.75 Use 2-1/2 in. or 65mm to push bearing assm. back on hub.

#1 Turn spindle face down so you are looking at the transmission side and use a flat tip screwdriver to remove seal, work around in circle. #2 You can now push hub out without removing the snap ring that holds the outer race. I was able to push it out with no adapters as the shaft on my press which is the 20 ton Harbor Freight model is 1-1/2 in. or 37.75. You will need to get you a couple of 4x4 blocks to hold spindle up high enough to allow the hub room to get out. #3 Remove the snap ring on transmission side of spindle (or inside of spindle) with a small screwdriver or snap ring plyiers. #4 set the spindle back on blocks with the wheel side up, I used a 2-1/2 in steel coupling from lumber yard to push the race out, you must push it from the wheel side to the trans. side #5 Take your new bearing assm. apart and clean and regrease with high temp. grease then put it back together with the plactic peice back in center, then press it in spindle from the trans. side. I used the old race to press the new assm. back in. It will seat up aganist the the lip inside of spindle and then you will have room to put the snap ring back in. #6 remove the outer bearing from the hub with bearing removeing tool around 20.00 dollars from Harbor Freight. #7 Install outer seal on spindle with rubber lip facing towards the wheel #8 My press came with two plates that have different cut outs around them, on one end of each plate is a half circle if you butt these two ends together the hub will fit perfect, and be high enough not to damaged the wheel studs when you press the spindle back on hub. #9 Set the hub down on the plates with shaft sticking up, or use 2x4s if your plates are not like mine. Then set the spindle on the hub shaft, transmission side up.( leave the plactic insert in, the hub shaft will push it out.) I used a 3/4 drive Blackhawk 1-7/8 in. socket to press the bearing and spindle onto the hub shaft. If you have things cleaned and greased it will slide together easy and you will feel it stop when it get totally on. The dim. of the 1-7/8 socket I used is 2-1/2 in. or 65 mm. #10 replace inside seal. #11 I would still suggest that you get a spindle and hub assm. from wrecking yard and then you will have plenty of time to practice with your old one. #12 When you take your old hub and spindle off be sure and mark your top strut bolt at 12 o'clock with the strut flange. This bolt must be retighten back at this same location so you will not lose the alinement. I did not understand this so I had to have my alinement redone. When the bolt is out you will see it is not round on the inside dia. so depening on where it is will set the angle of spindle.

Sounds like your vacum line is off, it is the one that is about 3/4 of an in. in dia. you will find it under the air tube that connects the air filter to the black box at back of motor. It is almost in the middle of this tubing. I think the other end goes to the I.A.C. unit.

(1997 Subaru Legacy Wagon) I replaced the front wheel bearing with a spindle and hub assembly from the wrecking yard, I then took the old spindle and hub and pressed it apart removed everything cleaned it up and greased it. I then put it back together with a new bearing. I took it apart again and found it was very easy with everything cleand and greased. So this time when I put it back together I left the seals off so I could see and feel how everything works. If you would like to do your own wheel bearing, I think this is a good way to learn. Jamie gave me a good link with pictures from the other board, that would be helpful if anyone wants to try it. You will need a small press and a bearing seperator but this costs less then one wheelbearing job at a shop.

Nipper, on the 98 Wagon I bought the compressor wont come on unless I use a jumper wire from battery, then it runs fine. I checked the fuse and it looks good. Is their only one fuse? the one under the hood. If I remember right they are four relays do I need to change them all or is there a way to check them?

If you will type in interference engine on the search you should be able to find out. I know the 96 2.2 is not and the 97 2.2 is but I dont know about the 2.5 You should be able to do the timing belt job with a Haynes manuel, I was able to do my 2.2 with it and it also had good photos and instustions for the 2.5 If you get it back together and it wont start you can check the compression to see if the valves are bent.

Maybe the thermostat stuck and it overflowed out while you was driving down the road.

Check the large bushing on the rear of the control arm, if it has grease coming out of it, then it will also pop when making turns. The control arm is the largest peice of metal on the bottom front that looks like an A- frame. You will know this bushing because it is held in place with two large bolts.

No more than a spark plug costs why dont you try a new one in that cyclinder. Also cheaper then trying a new E.C.M. is to take the coil pack off and have Auto Zone check it for free.

I replaced the E.C.M. on my Legacy and it fixed a # 3 misfire, but it is very easy to check with a noid light. You can get a set for around 20.00 dollars from most auto stores. If the signal is coming from E.C. M. it will flash.

There is a bolt you must loosen on the adj. between the power steering pully and the alternator pully it is a 12 mm. it holds the bottom left of the alternator, then you adj. the tension with the bolt on the top, then you retighten the lock bolt.

Are you loosening the bolt that locks it before adjusting on it.

Nipper, you are right about this most of the time they give problem when they are hot.

Check and make sure that big vacum hose is on good that is hooked between the air filter and the black box thing at the back of engine. It is on the bottom of the thing that connects these two. It is about 3/4 of an in. in dia.

This is a good suggestion, I just had one put on a 97 Chev. Lumina and I went to the places on the net that came up under hitches and they will tell what fits what and show pictures of most.