tcspeer

Go to Harbor Freight web site and type in manual tire changer in the search it will bring up a tire changer for around 50.00 dollars and you can add on a tire spreader for a few more dollars, and also a balancer for around 60.00 dollars more. I have all three and they are worth every penny. I can take a tire off and patch it and put it back on and balance it in just a few minutes why waste time and money fooling with a tire shop?

Rock Auto is very fast I had my struts in two days, do check them out they are cheaper on lots of parts you may need.

Midas changed mine for around 500.00 dollars about seven years ago parts and labor with lifetime guarantee, and they have since changed the front again for no charge. However I just put rear struts on my other Subaru today I got them for around 65.00 dollars each from Rock Auto. You will need coil spring compressors, which can be rented at Auto Zone, I dont know if you must buy the struts from them to rent the tools or not, I bought a cheap set from Harbor Freight. Be sure and mark the orination of the top cap with the flange that bolts to the spindle. The rear on mine has an arrow showing which side out but the front dont.

If the rubber boots on the drive axles are still good the axles are most likely good, check and see if they are busted and the grease is gone. they wont last long without grease. Also dont forget it could be the rear drive shaft you can look at the u- joints if they are bad you should be able to see some shiny metal where it is starting to get play.

My neighbor, has a 1988 Justy and it has been sitting down on the ground for a while, with the axle gone and hub stripped out he wanted me to help fix it, after looking at it I see it is nothing like the 97 & 98 Legacy wagons which I have changed out the axles more than once. What I need to know does the axle go in the same as the legacy wagons and is it held by a pin also. The other thing is I see no threads on the holes in the spindle where the caliper bolts on. They may just be stripped out or maybe they are held on with a bolt that goes through with a nut on the other side. Any thoughts would be welcome.

I found a great place last night it is junk yard dog you post what you need and they send it out and then people contact you. I posted for a legacy transmission and have already got back aroun 10 replys with yards that have it. It has a place you can add comments you might try just putting in the States you are looking for.

Go to junk yard dog and post, you search will then go out and you should hear back from many yards, but the 06 may make it tough if part dont change out with older models.

The lining will be attacted to the panel board and should come out in one peice. I was not there when they removed it, but I think you just remove all trim panels around the top and remove the light fixtures, then if their is anything else holding it you should be able to see. Their should be someone here that knows for sure.

Its always good to find an excuse to get new tools, I have got two this week for under 10.00 dollars for both. One was a set of rubber plugs to put in the end of the caliper hose to keep it from leaking when changing the caliper, and the other was a set of hose pinchers to pinch fuel and rubber brake lines.

When mine had a cyclinder misfire, it turned out to be the E.C.U. this is very easy to check with a cheap set of noid lights which can be had for around 20.00 dollars at most auto stores. Just unplug the pigtail and hook it to the light, if it dont flash when car is running you are not getting a signal from the E.C.U.

The correct way to fix it is to remove the whole thing and sand down the lining board and then install new lining material to the board, with new glue. I had an old Buick done at an uphostery shop for around 150.00 dollars. If you dont want to spend money on it you can spray paint thumb tacks the color of the lining and use them to hold it up.

My threads striped on the hose that bolts into the rack and pinon gear box and I J.B. welded it and it is still holding. I wanted to replace the unit with a used one but it is right hand drive and I cant find one that is priced right so I will leave it as long as it holds, and then get a new one.

I understand what you are saying I have a 97 Legacy wagon that I have taken care of and it is easy to work on, but I recently bought a 98 Legacy wagon that has not been taken care of and somethings are really tough just to take off. I think those ball joints are easy if they are taken apart often. I know on my mail Legacy I have them off so often they never have time to seize.

I used to get mine replaced for 122.00 dollars parts and labor, but they would only last around one year, so now I get them from Subaru, and put them in myself.

I agree replace the shaft, It is not that tough get a Haynes manual, it is detailed where it is easy to do.

If the suggestions you got already dont find your problem you might want to check the u- joints on the drive shaft.

As soon as I read your post I also was thinking rear seal, but I see other people have already told you this. My 97 Legacy wagon rear seal started leaking at around 100,000 miles and I put Gold Eagle stop leak in it and it quit, the motor lasted another 200,000 miles and never leaked again, also I never had the cam seals leak after this. Most people here will say never put stop leak in your engine, that choice is yours but I have never had problems using it. If it is the rear main seal and you want to have it changed I would guess you are looking at around 350.00 dollars (Texas price) to have a transmission shop pull the transmission and change the seal.

I have been able to remove them by locking vice grips on them and tapping them out with a hammer. They can seize in there very tight.

That seems like it would be a good idea as you could put the chain on the inside for safety. (couldn't you?)

Iam not sure what years will fit, but you should be able to clean and grease lighty, and put a new rubber boot on the bottom pin not the boot you can see but the one that is at the other end of the pin, and it should be fine. I have never replaced my brackets and it has been on a mail route for ten years and well over 300,000 miles. About two to three front brake jobs each year. You can get the rubber tips for the pins in the caliper kits.

China Mart gets their stuff there also.

I like OB99W suggestion, mine just started this but it has well over 300,000 miles on it. I just put a fuse in the holder under the hood and turned it into a front wheel drive and it is fine now. It dont take but about five min. to find out if this is what it is.

If you have the drum off get you a small pair of locking vice grips and you can take the the whole assy. off with this one tool, except the fluid line to the wheel cyclinder. Just make sure and not take the other side apart, as you will need it to look at when you go to put brakes back together. However you will need bigger tools and a haynes manuel to take hub and spindle off. And most important you will need to break loose the axle nut while the brakes are still on the car unless you have an impact, maybe you can break it in park but I like to use the brakes also to help hold it. Also if you have that drum off it is a great time to learn how to retract those shoes for removing the drum just in case that other one dont want to come off as easy. You can make a really good tool to hold that adj. lever off of the star wheel out of a small pick by bending the tip up at a 90 degree angle or buy one with the angle already on it. I noticed you have been trying to gather information for this job here and the other board, stay after this you will learn and then you wont have to go out and pay someone else when you need something.

You might also spray the throttle body plate with a carb. cleaner it may be dirty and as it warms the expanision is causing it to stick.

Two places to try, Campbell/ Nelson 1-888-337-7757 or Capitol City at 1-800-252-7045 I have gotten Subaru parts at both places and they ship U.P.S.