tcspeer

I am in the process of changing one now that was changed about five months ago. At that time I took the spindle to a local shop and we pressed it in with the grease that came with it. So this time I asked the people that give techinal advise at Litha Subaru about the grease, and they said what many here are saying. It is only a packing grease that is put in the bearing to keep them from rusting and you must clean them and repack with a high temp. grease.

No one here knows the answer to why the Subarus run rough at idle when stopped at the lights in drive, many of us here have this problem including my 97 Legacy wagon. I lean towards the idle air control valve but they cost so much that I have not tried it. However I now have access to a used one and I may try it.

You can also check it with a volt meter, if you dont have one take it to Auto Zone they will check it for free.

Mine started to leak at around 100,000 miles and a local transmission shop gave me a quote of 350.00 to replace. I decided to try the oil stop leak that Paul Harvey talks about on his radio progam I think it is the Gold Eagle brand and it stopped it from leaking. It was still not leaking at 288,000 miles when the idle pully busted and valves got into the pistons. Also the cam shaft seals never leaked after I used it. But you make up your on mind on this because not many here would ever use it. My job puts over 100 miles a day on my car and I used another brand with great success on the car I had before this one and it had neally 400,000 miles on it.

Cookie, I have seen one booster bad and it made a hissing noise when you stepped on the brake. Is this common with what you have seen or can they go bad without the hissing sound?

Setright has nailed it that is the way I do it and it works fine.

SWI66 if you dont mine spending a little money take it to the dealer, or even Midas and have them tell you what is wrong and then fix it yourself. I have a local mechanix here that I pay to dignose my cars when I cant figure out whats wrong and he only charges around 30.00 dollars. Also did you bleed the Master cyclinder? I went and looked at the 98 postal wagon today he told me I could have it for 100.00 dollars, so Iam going to take it. It will cost me around 400.00 to get it here, but right now I need the A.C. compressor and he says it is good. He also told me he put a new rear driveshaft in it last year and they are around 500.00 dollars. It started right up and sounds good but the transaxle is out in it.

I need this car for my job, so just in case it dont go well, I have a hub and spindle coming in from the wrecking yard also, and when I go to press the new ones in they may not end up any better then the old ones I took out.

If you want to see them type in shop press on the key word search, if you just type press it brings up some other kinds of press. You will also have to get the bearing seperator they are around 30.00 dollars, and I got a 1and1/2 in couppling from the lumber yard to push the race out but the large sockets would probaly work also.

My wife got it for me at Christmas, I think she paid 174.00 dollars on sell. You can go to Harbor Freight web site and see them with the prices. Mine is the 20 ton they also have a twelve ton that would most likely do the bearing. The one I have stands around 6 ft. high and about 2 and a half foot wide. You dont even have to bolt it down it stands well on the feet it comes with. It has a couple of steel plates that come with it, and I added a couple of ten in. 4x4 blocks from the local lumber yard. the links that Jamie left up top here are really good if you need them.

I had no trouble taking it apart today with the 20 ton press from Harbor Freight, I have not got my bearing yet, it is in the mail this way so I dont know how it will be putting it back together but it dont look bad.

Your new rotor is probably out of round, I dont have rotors on the back of mine so I dont know if you can switch sides with these like you can on the front but if you can I would try that. The noise may go away when you switch them but it will be back in a few days, and should be on the side where you moved it to.

I agree with grossgary I think you are having problems with the coil pact. I also check my fuel pump the way he said, if it is coming out it should idle fine, but if it wont run going up a hill then you may need to check the pressure as jacek says.

I agree with nipper I think you most likely have master cyclinder problems. Now can I ask you something? The 98 postal wagon does it have the 2.2 or the 2.5 engine? I have a 97 postal wagon and want to buy a 98 postal wagon for parts for 500.00 dollars but it is around 150 miles from where I live and I asked the one who has it which engine it has and he said he did not know. He told me the only thing wrong with it is the final drive was out. I have never heard of a final drive but Iam thinking he means the transaxle.

This sounds like real work, I hope I can get mine to press in without having to make a bunch of things to hold things in place.

We have a little shop here where I can have it pressed in for around 30.00 dollars, but being this car is used for postal del. wheelbearing faliure is something that is fairly regularly so I wanted to learn to do it myself.

Thank you that link ought to be really helpful. I am going to try but I have a complete spindle and hub assembly with the bearing in it coming by U.P.S. from the wrecking yard just in case I run into trouble.

Get you a multi meter (volt meter) and check the coil pact, the details on how to do this is in the Haynes manual it is very easy.

I want to try and press my front bearing out of the spindle and the new one back in but I need help. I know the hub must be pressed out first, but after that I am lost. Does anyone know where a good link with pictures and details are to do this job?

No it will not drive he posted it in the Tx. carrier mag. it is a right hand drive and he is selling it only to part out. At this time I need the A.C. compressor and he said it was still working when he parked it. He also said it is complete with wheels and tires and motor but it has close to 200,000 miles on it. But mine has 315,000 so this one is just now getting broke in.

I have a 1997 Leg. L wagon with a 2.2, I have found someone around 150 miles away that has a 1998 Leg. L wagon to sell for parts he said the final drive is out. What is a final drive? I also asked him if it had a 2.2 engine or a 2.5 he had no idea. He gave me the vin # is their anyway to tell by the vin # what engine is in this car?

Cookie that is a good looking belt, I just put one on our Saturn. I plan to use them on the Subaru also next time.

You can check that inj. with a mechanix stehscope you can pick one up at the Auto store it will have a long steel rod that is connected to a ear peice, put the rod on the inj. and see if you can hear it clicking, listen to the good ones so you will know what it should sound like. Also get you a in line spark checker this plugs on to the plug and the plug wire plugs into the other end their is a little glass window you can see if you are getting fire. If you are not getting fire try replacing that plug wire first. If that inj. is not clicking then use a noid light and plug in to the end of the inj. pigtail and see if it is getting information from the E.C.U. These things the stehscope, plug checker and noid lights can be had for around 30.00 dollars and they will be useful many times later also.

If you feel it in steering wheel it is most likely the front. I would also suggest replacing instead of turning. New rotors from Auto Zone are only around 30.00 dollars each.

I would check the coil pact, breaking down under heat sounds like it could be the problem.