tcspeer

Mine is also getting weak, and it has high mileage I bought some of the 134-a at Wal mart today with the oil, sealer and coolant in same can I have not put it in yet. They have a little install device for 14.00 dollars with a gauge on it.

I agree with Chef, this has had no answer here, I also have had this problem for years.

Is it as good as you was hoping for?

It may not be as bad as you think, true the tumbers may be worn but also the key wears as much, the key may open the passenger door because the tumbers are not wore, even through the key is. If you have another key that is not worn try it. If not go to the dealer or locksmith and try to get one.

I agree, J.C. Whitney does sell pre cut carpet I dont know if Subaru is in their stock or not.

I thought about trying a drive shaft shop but they are not any close to where I live. But I may give that a try next time, it costs way to much to buy new drive shafts.

I dont think you can replace these U- joints, I think you will have to replace the drive shaft. They are over 500.00 dollars new. I got one for 150.00 out of the wrecking yard one time. I am now driving on my third one. 307,000 miles all stop and go. Also when the joints went bad in mine you could see the shiny part of the joint where it was getting the play.

You may have a belt seperated in one of the tires. If you have a good spare change them out one at a time and see if that will stop it.

Well, with my memory this is probably my second time to read them.

Yes and I sat here and read each post, and I dont even need license plate screws.

I dont know anything about torque bind but if Nipper sees this he is up on this subject if not give him a private message he should be able to give you information on it.

E- thuggin never heard that before, maybe Iam to far South. The only thing I know for sure about wrapping rotors is they dont go long after turning them before they wrap. I just break down and buy new ones instead of turning. Of couse mine get much hotter than most using it for postal del.

I also was thinking maybe the coolant temp. sensor.

What do you mean tightness? maybe others are also not quite understanding your problem.

I agree with Dickensheets you have a air bubble, another way to get the radaitor full is to wait untill it is cold and take the cap off then start it and turn heater on, and keep adding water as it goes down. Subaru are really tough to get the water system full after it has been drained.

I also use Q- tips, I guess you could use WD 40 with the straw to wash it out.

They are tough to get back on, I found it more easy to take the air vent tube off and unplug I think the M.A.F. conector and take the vacum hoses off, then put the cover back on and then put those things back on.

Iam not taking about driving in the rain, I was speaking of crossing a river stream or other body of water, when the brakes are really hot. Where you live you may not have these conditions but where I drive there are a lot of places where the river or branches cross the road. Notice I said I have heard this I dont know how much truth there is in it.

I have also heard that getting them wet when they are hot will sometimes warp them, You need to let them cool some before washing at car wash, and be careful driving through water with them hot.

It's always a pain to get those back in they work like manuel pump to push the caliper back when you let off the brake. Take them back off and clean them and dont put as much grease on them, then work them in and out without mounting the caliper. When you get them working right then mount the caliper back on. They should work fine until you get the new ones.

I think your rear brakes always got hot and you did not notice until you went looking for the problem. After a few stops in my car they are really hot you find this out by having to change a flat after using the brakes.

I had the dash out of my 97 Legacy wagon a few months back and it did not have a speedo cable just a elc. plug.

I will give that a try, thanks for the information.

I will give you a bump back to the top because I know they are people here that claim the axles causes this shaking an they may not have seen this yet. If no one replys give it a search on the search feature under axles or shaking and it should bring some of the discussion from the past back up.

They are people here that claim the front axles causes this problem, I have not bought into this theory but your comment about changing the axles might give it some credit. They claim is the axle is a little longer or shorter then the oringial it will cause the shaking.