tcspeer

Have you had the drive axle checked? You might also have the drive shaft looked at.

I dont think I ever changed the little washer on the drain plug, and it has never leaked, I dont even remember for sure if it had one, and that is with around 60 oil changes. I have just lately put the Fumto valve on, and Iam not real confident with it.

I put nearly 450,000 miles on a Chev. Malibu using Fram, and I have nearly 300,000 miles on my Subaru now, using Fram. I did replace the Subaru engine at 288,000 miles because the timing belt idle came apart and valves got into pistons. So what is wrong with Fram?

Take the line off to the caliper, or open the bleeder valve and pump some of the fluid out. You might also want to take the caliper off and clean and grease the slide pins. I think that their is also a valve in or near the master cyclinder that controls the pressue to each wheel, someone here should know for sure on that.

I didn't see where you said if it was jacked up, or on a lift, or on the ground. But I would jack it up is it is on the ground, or let the weight back on it if it is in the air, something may be in a bind.

Like Gnuman says the bolt must come all the way out. That is the only reason I could see that the ball joint would not come out.

Check it with a code reader, if you dont have one Auto Zone may still read them free. You problably left one of the wires unplugged, I had my dash out a few weeks back and the air bag light stayed on after I got it back together, I had left one of the connectors partially undone.

I like the big heavy ones that Wal Mart sell seperate, I cut the little slot out there where the gas tank release is. They fit and look good plus they will hold the slush and mud good.

Those covers break easy, I broke one of mine when removing the bolt, however I would not run it without the cover, new ones should not cost that much. I was able to run a bolt through mine and put a nut on the back side, so I did not have to replace mine.

It wants to be difficult, spray where the spine goes into hub with P.B. blaster wait a little while and get a big hammer and punch and drive it out. If you still cant get it out take the whole hub assm. off with axle and take it somewhere and have it pressed out.

I dont remember each and ever step but I removed mine with the help of the Haynes manuel, it was rather simple. I do know you must loosen the axle nut, (not much) then raise the car and remove the spring pen on the end near the trans. You also have to remove the bolt that clamps the ball joint, then seperatae it. their is also one more bolt to be removed I think it is the one on the stabilize link. (Do a search on this with search feature.) After you get this then remove the axle nut and swing front hub assm. around that should pull the axle loose from trans. then you can pull it out from the hub, here you may need punch and hammer. I didn't mine came right out.

On my right hand drive either the outlet or inlet was a solid pipe from the core through the firewall the other one was not, whats worse is the pipe did not even have the ridge on it to push the hose over, it was just straight pipe.

I bought poster board at the local paper office and cut it in a square that would fit my file cabinet and took a small ruler and put me a chart on it just the way I wanted it and it works great. You can get poster board at Wal Mart also.

Good place to check for used parts is Campbell/Nelson 1-888-337-7757 or sales@findusedparts.com they are in Arl. Washington, but they ship parts. I have used them a good bit and have never had problems.

The coolant will end up on the carpet, you can also see the residue on the vents where the air come out at the floor. you will know if the core is leaking your windows will also fog up when defroster is on. On my right hand drive the heater core was connected to the metal pipe that is on outside of firewall by a three in. section of hose. That was what was leaking on mine but I had to take the dash out to get to it. I dont think the left hand drive would be like this, not well thought out for sure.

I know you said you think it is coming from transmission, but did you check wheel bearing and c.v. joint also?

I think what you say happens, but I dont think it is the general practice.

The one that gives the most problem is under the thing that connects the air filter housing with the big black plactic thing that sits on top of engine near back. It will be about 5/8 in. diam. their is also a small one that connects their. If the car will stay running the big one is most likely still on. I would try putting another filter in or make sure that one is in right, it sounds like you are not getting enough air to engine. Did you tighten the clamps back on the air filter housing?

Well that is where I will buy my next alternator, I have around 250,000 miles on the one I have now. Thanks for the insight.

I agree try a different filter, sounds like the air flow is restricted.

Did you get all of the air hoses hooked back up to your air filter housing? Sounds like you may have left the big hose unconnected. It hooks to the bottom of the thing that connects the air filter to the big black thing at back and on top of motor.

Are you sure on that price? Its seems way to cheap for an alternator. I dont think I have found one in years for under 100.00 dollars, for any car I have had. If this is correct then this is the best buy. However if it is not then I would buy the one from Auto Zone with the lifetime warranty and never worry about having to buy another one for that car again as long as you own it.

When I rinse my motor off with water (only when it is cold) sometime my engine will do this until it is good and dry. My guess would be plug wires, moisture is probably getting in from the rain.

Have you done a search here for your problem? I have not seen to many post for the problem you are having. I know the newer Subaru do not have a choke but I would think your problem is related to what ever is used instead of the choke. And maybe that is the temp. coolant sensor, but I would not have total faith that it would fix it.

Changing oil is very easy, the advice I would give is never put a wrench on drain plug when you are putting it back in, until you have got it all of the way back in by finger tight, to keep from cross threading. You also need to rub some of the oil on the rubber gasket before putting the oil filter on. I tighten mine hand tight never tighten with oil filter wrench. Some people like to fill the filter with oil before installing it but I put mine on without doing that. Make sure you have oil in engine before restarting and let idle before racing engine until oil light goes off. Always recheck the oil after you finish and also again after you run it a few miles. Keep your receipts for the oil and filters you buy until you go out of warranty, to prove you done the work. I dont think I have ever replaced the little gasket around the oil plug on my Subaru. I have replaced the little o-ring on the plugs of other cars I have had.