tcspeer

The printout from the E.S.M. shows that their is one bolt holding the differential side retainer, then it looks like it can be removed with the screwdriver as you said.

Thanks Ross, I just found a picture on the C.D. service manuel and it looks just like what you said. G.L. Wagon: mine has good reason to leak with nearly 300,000 miles on it, dont know why the new Foresters would be having problems.

I have been unable to get help on new Gen. board about transaxle seals. That is probably because they do not need changing often, and also I have not been able to find anything about it in the Haynes manuel. Does any one here know anything about changing them? they are leaking the 80-w oil out of front diff. or transaxle. I was told the little cover unscrews on side of diff. if this is true what is used to unscrew it. Mine is a 97 legacy wagon but maybe they change out close to the same way.

The radiator may just need to be taken out and and have the fins washed out, with water hose. Be careful and not spray with to much force that it would bend the fins. This happened to my car at around the mileage yours has and that fixed it.

My front differential is losing the 80-w oil, I changed the front axles a couple of years ago but dont remember is there is a seal on the end of axle or not. What do I need to do to stop leak where axle goes into differential? 1997 Legacy wagon, 2.2

I have not looked at it real close but the top one fits like the axle shaft in the hub, I think the clamps you are talking about are on the bottom half. I was told I would have to take the steering gear box off but I agree with you it looks like it will come off without that.

I think that might help 1997 legacy wagon 2.2

I havent seen anything here about the steering shaft u-joint, i need advice about taking it off. Can it be done without removing steering gear? My top joint is rusty and looks like it is soon to come apart. It is a 97 legacy wagon 2.2

jamal, I have never got mine hot enough to notice fade from the many stops I make on my job, most likely their is some there I just havent noticed.

The advice about downshifting is good, but what you are smelling is the chemicals from pads or anti squeal materials getting hot. Our mail cars always does this when we change pads because we get them so hot with all of the stops, and of course yours got hot going down the mountain. After a few days it goes away.

I had a cyclinder #3 misfire on my 2.2 engine and it turned out to be the E.C.U. Did you check to see if it is from lack of fire or gas. You can pick up a in line plug checker for just a few dollars. If you have fire then get you a noid light and check for signal to the injector. Mine would not light the noid light but it had current to the plug, so I bought the E.C.U. on a hunch and it fixed it.

Have you or anyone else been in the master cyclinder tank? If so you may have the little float device stuck at the bottom of tank. Making it read as though you have low brake fluid.

That is correst Jim get you a blow gun that has the rubber tip that is cone shaped. You dont need much air, the little portable air tank is enough. After one go with those rubber boots you will most likely want to exchange for rebuilt calipers next time.

When you take it back off compare the new rotor with the old one it may not be the right one. As Tex says they are not always right from the parts place.

Way to go Tex. but now you wont get to work on it untill it is out of warranty.

This makes as much sense as saying why do the french speak french, or the Germans, German it has no meaning to most Americans. We have our yard sticks and containters to equal our mearsuments and are use to them. We know when it is 32 degrees it is freezing and has been that way all of our lives. Besides what other nation has figured out how to print as much money as it needs just by turning on the printing press. If we had a system that made sense we might not be able to do this.

Frag I dont know much about the metric system but it seems like what little I know it is probably the better system.

You should have bought the rebuilt caliper, the boots are a real pain to change. As for as getting the piston out use air and keep your fingers out of the way. I ran my calipers for a long time without the boots didnt seem to hurt anything.

I would not worry about that, my 1997 Subaru wagon has 294,000 miles on it and lots of them is with the two right wheels off of the pavement delivering mail, a few extra lbs. of pressure surely cant be as bad as that. I think the A.W.D. system can handle more than we think.

He knew if you did not know what system of meausement to use, you would have to have explained to you how to behave. He put ten to make sure you would know it was meant for you also.

God did not intend for us to use the metric system, that is why they were 12 or a dozen apostles instead of ten. (to the metric user members its only a joke)

Check on top of your steering wheel column and see if the park light switch got bumped on. Did you clean on it today.

Did that inner pad wear out or did it come unbonded from metal plate? Also did you pull out the slide pins and grease them?

Yes thanks I will take the seats out. An I have a short peice of hose ready for the bypass of core.