tcspeer

1997 Legacy wagon 2.2 engine. I only tested the two on the right, the front one lights but not # 3. However I did pull them off one at a time before I got the light and they all were working but #3. I could tell this by the way the engine would try to die when they were unpluged. The reason for checking these were because the engine would shake when it was idling in gear. I had this engine installed from a junk yard and I noticed the pigtail for the # 3 injector had heat damaged on it. When I unpluged it to check, it made it worse it is not working any now. I have ordered a pigtail from the wrecking yard to replace the end but the worry is the noid will not light when I touch the ends to the bare wires behind the damaged connector. Any ideals?

The connector that goes to my # 3 fuel injector is not lighting a noid light. The plactic end looks like it has been against the manifold but the light did not light when I touched the bear wires on back side. Any ideals what to look for?

I would go to Auto zone and exchange them for rebuild, make sure they have them in stock before taking yours off. I rebuilt the calipers on our Saturn and they are very easy. Not so with the Subaru the boots are really tough to get back in. Exchange price is not very much I dont remember the cost but it is better than messing with those boots.

Lawsonmh15, why do you ask about slack in throtter cable? Mine has slack in the outer sheild of the cable and it runs rough at idle while in gear. I dont think the inner wire has any slack in it.

The idle air control valve is expenise, that is why i have not changed mine. Make sure they dont change it just as a shot in the dark. If they find the problem be sure and post back, this seems to be a common problem. I looked on the search feature of this sight and found that we are not the only ones with this problem. Also found out that no one seems to know the reason they do this. After looking back at your post I see you should still be in warranty so maybe the cost of an idle air control valve wont matter.

I use the ones at Auto Zone for around 30.00 dollars and have only had one that gave problem. It was a little out of round but they replaced it. I am going to try the ones that are even cheaper next time. If I remember right the ones for my wifes Saturn are around 28.00 with life time warranty and around 18.00 dollars for 90 day warranty. I dont remember the price difference on the Subaru.

I hope their is a weld nut on the back, I dont do well with trim.

The left arm on the back hatch of my wagon came loose at the top, I put it back on and it stayed a few days and then came off again. I have ordered a new one and the top part looks simple. I am a little concerned about the bottom has any one ever changed one? Do the inside panels have to come off to get the little bolt at bottom off, or is it just a stud that screws in from the back of hatch.

My 97 Legacy wagon started shaking when stoped at lights or stop signs when it is in drive, if i put it in N. it stops. I was not able to find the problem and latter the engine got trashed because an idle pully came apart. I had the motor replaced with a low mileage engine and it also shakes. So it must have something to do with the parts that were taken from the old engine and put on the replacement engine. My thoughts right now is leaning towards the idle air control valve. But that is only a wild guess.

Contact SOA they will help you, I feel sure of this. Their should be a number in the back of your owners manuel where to turn for help. It is best to contact these people with certified mail return receipt, after you get their address. This will help you if you need to prove time intervials.

Non interferance means the valves and piston will not hit if timing belt breaks or something else goes wrong. Interferance means they might, so it is much more important to keep your belts changed at the right time on them.

Call Litha Subaru their # is 1-866-717-2512 or 1 800 299 3610 I think the first number is correct. They provide parts for Rural mail carriers Subarus. They will ship Express or any other way you want it. They have great prices and fast service, and plenty of help where you dont have to wait when you call. they are on the West coast so you will need to call around 10:00 your time.

I know from experence 1997 2.2 are interferance. My idle pully came apart at 288,000 miles and it bent the valves in three of the four cyclinders. The reason they are inteferance in 1997 is because the piston was coned up to get more compression or horsepower. I seen an article about this on this board or the other Subaru board.

I have been thru this and the whole process was very easy. If they fail to fix it in three attemps ask at the dealer to see the Reg. manager. They will set you an appt. with them and they will meet you at your dealer place of buss. The one that helped me was from Col. His name was Stuart Garrett. He came down to Waco Tx. took my car and fixed it on the spot and gave me and my family a loan car and money for dinner. It was a very good experince. He came down in a suit but changed to work clothes and he really knew his job. Mine had a rattle up under the head liner and they took the liner down and fixed it. The top of the car had seperated from the cross members. As for as the lemon law we never got that for but as I understood it that was next.

Yes you will need to take the brake caliper off, and you may have to take the rotor off also. There is two bolts holding the bracket on that holds the caliper, I think they are 17mm. be sure to use a box end wrench on them so you wont round them off, after you take these off the rotor will then come right off. Subyluvr2212 may be right about the wheelbearing, but I did not have to hit mine hard it came out easy. You can try it if it dont come out easy you can leave it. As for as pulling the new one in I dont see any reason this would hurt the bearing. You dont need a lot of room on the back you will knock it from the front side towards the back.

Knock it out with a punch and a large hammer, before you put the new one in put some oil on it so it will not be so hard to get in. After you get it started you can pull it on in to place with the lug nut. They may be a better way to do this but this worked for me and I have seen other people do it this way.

I take the belt that is on the crank pully and cut it to fit around pully then tape with duct tape to hold it. Then I use the large chain wrench that is sold at harbor freight to hold it, not the one that is on the end of vise grips but the one that has a metal handle around two foot long with the chain on the end. Then I break the bolt loose with a very large breaker bar, that large breaker bar that is also sold at the place where I got the chain wrench.

I take both battery cables off of my Legacy and the C.E.L. will clear. I dont think mine has ever cleared by taking off just the neg.

I am also looking to get one, Harbor Freight has the 400 - 900 amp on sale in the retail stores for 39.00 dollars until 7-11-05. They are very handy for jumping not only cars but the riding lawnmower that wont start at the next mowing season. Wal Mart also have them back by the batterys. I dont know which one is the best but I plan on trying the 39.00 dollar one from Harbor Freight.

If you can feel the vibration in the steering I think the problem is the front rotors. I would suggest you get the ones at Auto Zone for around 30.00 dollars each. They hold up fine on my car and it is right hand drive used for mail del. This means it is loaded with weight and over 500 hundred stops a day. Including crossing a river at the time they are most hot. I have not had any luck having them turned they warp really quick, maybe for regular use it would be fine.

It dont hurt to replace just one caliper, You should only have to bleed the one you break loose. If you replace the master cyclinder you would have to bleed all four. But as Setright says it dont hurt to bleed all four.

Has anyone checked the throttle position sensor?

The rubber boots are tough to get back in right on a rebuild, its much better to exchange for a rebuilt one. They dont cost much as long as you have yours off where you dont have to pay the core charge. Make sure you find someone with one in stock first.

Yes it was the 40.00 dollar one.

For the ones here that have bought them only to find out that they wont read the Subaru codes, I just wanted to let you know they work well on some other cars so dont throw them away. It read the codes on our Saturn great.