tcspeer

I would suggest going to Auto Zone with your old one in hand and get a rebuilt one there. The rubber boots are very hard to get back in the Subaru calipers. I have rebuilt calipers on our Saturn its very easy. Subaru calipers are not so easy.

I think its common I have had a few cars do that on cold morning. Problary something to do with fluid getting to the right places in transmission.

A lot of the c.v. shafts are rebuild, maybe it has been bent before or after the repair. Could also be as simple as a weight knocked off of the wheel during the repair. Put your spare on if that dont fix it take it back. it would be a good ideal to look and make sure they tighten the nut on the end of shaft their in the center of the hub, also look under the car and make sure ever thing looks together under their.

I would try new plug wires. It's not real hard to get plugs out, but you should have a good socket set with ext. and plug socket. Catch the wires on the big end next to the plug and twist and pull at the same time.

I use Auto Zone rotors and their Albany semi metilac pads, the pads work better on my mail Rt. car then the O.E.M. pads. I think these pads are made by bendex. Rotors are around 30.00 each and set of pads are around 20.00.

I have had this same problem. What went wrong on mine was the tires had developed a wear pattern by lack of rotation. By switching the front two tires it would change the direction of the pull. I bought new tires and fixed mine.

You can get better prices from Lithia Subaru in Oregon. Their number is 1-866-717-2512 pay with credit card and you will have you parts in two to three days with priority mail. They are really good to the rural mail carriers that drive Subaru right hand drives. Other people here can tell you some other places that are good to get parts.

If the leak is brown get some Gold Eagle engine oil stop leak in the brown bottle and put in engine it should stop within 500 miles. It stopped mine at around 100,000 miles and it still had not started leaking at 288,000 miles when my idle pully came apart and caused the valves to get in pistons. ( Make sure it says for engine they make products for transmissions and problary raditors also)

Set the brake, a lot of cars with drums on the rear get the brakes adjusted by setting the brake.

One trick I have learned, is to switch sides with the drums and rotors this will help to get the glaze off, just brake easy the first few times like you do when replacing pads or shoes.

It is not normal for them to squeak. Take the pads off of the front and put some anti squeal grease or spray on back of pads. Also take sandpaper and sand front of pads and rotors, If you have pads on back do the same if you have shoes then sand the drums and shoes. If that dont work you can switch sides with rotors, and also with drums. If that dont work you may need to replace pads, shoes and rotors and drums. It dont cost much at Auto Zone and it's very easy to do. The squeak when you first start off is probaly the brakes also, but if you have hub caps it could also be them.

Dude, I didnt mean to repeat your suggestion on plugs, I started my reply and was called away to phone when I got back to finish and post I seen you already suggested this.

I have not seen anyone mention valve stem seals, I dont know for a fact that Subaru engine are like the Chev. Malibu but I bought an engine rebuild for my malibu and the valve stem seals were not replaceled in the head. It started using oil at a very fast rate, with not a whole lot of noticely smoke. I just kept adding oil as needed until I had seals replaced. Did you check the spark plugs? Mine had a build up of crude on them from the oil getting in cyclinder.

You may have water down in the spark plug holes. I got water in mine from the washer tank when changing plugs.

Good advice from SevenSisters, it is not much money for the whole axle. I am thinking around sixty dollars.

Not many people are as hard on brakes as rural mail del. (Tx. heat) fully loaded car with nearly 500 stops a day, most from at least 50 miles an hour. If I turn my rotors one time they will wrap within a few days, (shaking when on brakes) Dont even turn them once go to Auto Zone and get their rotors they are cheap and they hold up for me on my job,so they will surely hold up to whatever kind of driving you are doing. When rotors are turned they are much smaller and wrap much easier.

Looks fine to me, way to go! Brakes next?

I had a rear engine seal go out on my Subaru at around 100,000 miles. I put some of the Gold Eagle stop leak in it and it stopped. It was still not leaking at 288,000 miles when my idle pully came apart and the valves got into pistons. Many people here dont like to use these products, but I dont know of one person that has ever had a problem from using them. You can go to their web site for more details on their products.

We have a Saturn, they dont dent easy but they will break. It looks like hard plactic. Vicky,sorry to here about your mishap, I had some one back into my door years back it left a large dent and I never found who done it.

Can you exchange the starter? It may not have the power to turn engine and is just spinning within it self.

Sea#3 is probaly right, but you might also check to see if the teeth are good on the flywheel? Maybe it got stripped from the old starter. You could turn your motor by turning the crank pully just a little and then see if the starter will catch on some good teeth.

Anyone know who makes Super Tech oil and filters for Wal Mart? I was looking at the Super Tech filter and it looks better made than Fram.

Ranger, why a three lbs. sledge hammer, hacksaw, and 50' feet of rope? just curious.

If the u-joints are going bad you can usually see shiny parts where they are separating, check the front and back.

Subaru X, did you take radiator off and check to see if it might just need washing fins out? I learned a lot of lessons by 22 years old, but I think at 52 now I must have forgotten them, I have been taken twice in the last three months on things I should have known better.