tcspeer

I still think the proper torque is 90 to 100 ft. lbs. overtighting is just as damaging as under tighting. When it is over tighten the threads are streched and that will weaken the grip the bolt has. Why not follow the specs. that are in the manuals. Ever manual I have seen has the specs. at around 90 lbs. for my 2.2 engine. Many people say the manuals are wrong but nobody has posted anything that shows the revised numbers. If someone has the correct torque please post it with your source of information.

Can you answer this? Sunday I changed spark plugs on a 97 2.2 when I finished I started the engine and it run great then I turned it off. About six hours later I drove it and within one half mile it started missing and Ck. engine light started flashing. No wire had been damaged, no plug was bad, gap was fine and no vacum line had been knocked off and no wires were crossed. But the problem (when I found it)was related to the plug change what was it?

Brett You might be able to get a few more miles out of your plugs, I change mine around once a year.

I agree with Suzam, it is very hard to get Subaru Radiator full of water without getting air pockets.

Setright I have never tried to push piston in by hand, but I will try that next pad change. I guess if you open bleed valve it would be easy. Truk, that is good advise from Setright on turning or replacing rotors. I replace mine about every second pad change. The reason to do this is to keep the car from shimming when you step on brakes, also a smooth rotor will not eat your pads up as fast. The shimming is from the rotor being just a little out of round and it dont take much.

I have a 97 Legacy L. wagon so I have drums on the rear of mine so I dont know if rear pads are the same as front. On the front of mine I need 14 or 12mm wrench for calipers, and 17mm if taking rotors off. You will need C- clamp to push pistons back in calipers. Do not push rear ones in with C- clamp until someone else says it is O.K. some cars rear brake pistons are screwed back in and I dont know about rear disc brakes on Subaru because I have drums. If you have added brake fluild you will need to take some out of M.C. before pushing pistons back in. The rail the pads ride in dont need changing (not very often) If you get pads at Auto Zone they have brake grease that you can buy at counter in a packet about the size of a sugar packet that you can rub on back of pad. If rubber boot is cracked or ripped I wouldnt worry to much about it. I run mine without them and have not had any trouble 278,000 miles. (the intence heat here in Tx. along with being on my brakes all day del. mail the rubber boots just wont hold up.) You will not need to bleed your brakes unless you open one of the lines. Be sure and pump them when you finish before driving off.

I have only bleed one Master cyclinder it was for Chev. Haynes has a Techbook, just for brakes it is called Brake Manual. It has detailed info. on doing this. If master cyclinder is off put in vise. You will need to get a pair of master cylinder bleeder tubes from auto store hook them up and run them into top of reservoir fill it with fluild and push piston on master cyclinder with large screwdriver until you have no more bubbles. After looking at this again in my brake manual it says this is the best way to get air out before installing M.C. of course you will still have to bleed brakes. It may be possible to get all of the air out just by repeated bleeding of brakes the other way. I would sure try that before taking master cyclinder back off.

You may need to bleed the master cylinder, then rebleed the brakes.

Harbor Freight sometimes sell their 1/2 in. drive 150lb. torque for 9.95. Dont worry about it being made in China most American Mfg. are their now having their tools made including some of Craftsman products.

Another option is wrecking yard. Some of them will tow your car and install a motor out of a fairly new car and give warranty.

I have a lot of experince with brake pads (rural mail carrier) about two sets a year. I like the semi metallic that Auto Zone sells they have Albany on box I think they are made by Bendix but I dont know that for sure. They are around twenty dollars and I have very little squeal (most of the time none) which is really amazing considering the abuse they go through with my job.

Go buy a 29.00 dollar rotor at Auto Zone and a twenty dollar set of pads, you problary should get one for each side so they will be the same. Then get a Haynes manuel and follow the steps, if you need help their is plenty of advise here.

Maybe steering rack assembly their is a boot on the end of it, near tie rod end.

I use Fram in my 2.2 it is closing in on 300,000 miles. I used Fram in my 83 Chev. Malibu it had close to 400,000 miles on it. Both cars used to del. mail over 100 miles a day in extreme dusty conditions. But Fram doesn't have many friends here.

Great Site thanks! I wish they would list prices also.

Mine is still in the Pkg. After what you and Tex. have to say I hope it gets to stay their awhile. I have got some fine things from Harbor Freight very cheap.

I agree with Shawn also leave it alone. However I dont agree with the last part of his comment, I love the Gold Eagle stop leak, I found it to be the miracle in the plastic can. And my 2.2 is closing in on 300,000 miles. It stopped the rear engine seal leak at around 100,000 and I have never had to change a cam seal, since using it. Who has ever won a law suit against Gold Eagle for damage to any engine? (If you do take that pan off be careful the pan bolts will break very easy when you put them back in.)

Have you tried the cheap stuff? Putting the front tires on rear? Just uneven wear pattern on tires can cause the problem you are describing. I dont see in your post where any thing was tried with your tires. Balance problems can also seem fine at different speeds.

I will let you know, good or bad. Iam sure it wont be that long before the light is on again.

Just got my 39.00 code reader from Harbor Freight, have not got to use it yet. Anyone have an opinon on this code reader?

I used the Gold Eagle oil stop leak when mine started leaking. It had around 100,000 miles on it at that time it nows has 277,000 and still not leaking. (please be aware many here will not recommend using any of these products.)

If all four brakes are wearing down at the same time I think you might want to have the master cylinder looked at. it may not be releasing the pressure properly.

I agree with 99 O.B.W. I think the pad guides are gone. I dont see how the shims on back of pads would have anything to do with the sound you are hearing. I think you need to clean and grease caliper silde pins and replace the rails the pads slide on or in. It may also be the ends on the pads are not close enough to correct size. Clean, grease pins, replace rails and put on different brand of pads should take care of it.

My wild guess would be the throttle positioner sensor or Idle air control valve.

The anti squel on back of pads is good, but also take Q- tip and lighty grease the little slots that the pads slide in, then sand the pads with course sandpaper to get the glaze off, then put each set of pads on the other side. If this dont do it turn or replace rotors. Also their is some pads and shoes that just want to squel replace them with O.E.M. I get lots of brake experince with my job.(Rural Mail Carrier) I have really good luck with the semi metallic pads from Auto Zone, however the only rear shoe that I have found that will hold up to the heat of my job is the O.E.M. shoes from Subaru.