tcspeer

The last post covers the job well the only thing I can add is just dont take them both apart at the same time. Raise both wheels and take both drums off then take them apart one at a time, no manual is as clear as the real thing.

Was it Wal Mart tire shop? They done mine that way one time and I went to Manager, and showed him how tight they were and he told me to buy new lug nut's and bring him the ticket and he would pay for them. Which I didn't do but maybe he got on to the one who done it. I carry a pipe to put over my lug wrench to break them loose, because they nearly always overtighten them at tire shops.

McBrat, how much do the snap on sticks cost? can you buy them indivually, or do you have to buy them in set?

Thanks for the replys, I had my doubts about them when I seen the tire people at Wal Mart who have torque sticks finish the job with torque wrenches. I have plenty torque wrenches already I just wanted a time saving device. The little lug wrench that came with my Subaru gets real close to the right torque when I get it about as tight as I can get it.

Does anyone have experince with torque sticks? I have impact and would like to use them to tighten lug nuts with out the worry of getting them to tight. Are they accurate? what is a good brand and good price?

Emily, I don't have access to the Subaru factory manuals would you please post the torque for the Subaru 2.2 crank pully bolt. It seems to be debated here often.

How do you know timing belt has slipped? just seems strange the way it happen.

I have a 97 Legacy wagon, and my antenna got to where it was making a loud noise and would only go about half way up unless you got hold of it and pulled. I took the little cover of their in the back where the antenna motor is then got my antenna all of the way up, and unplugged it and have not had any more problems. It's great no more noise and the antenna is always up.

Greg, I agree with you ! My Subaru is used on a mail route so my left side is sometimes three to four inches higher than the right. The left side is running on the smooth pavement up high while the right side is off on the lower rough side of road taking a beating. It has been doing this for going on eight years and 269,000 miles. If I had heard the kind of talk you were complaining about I would have been scared to try a Subaru on a mail route.

Ihrocker, have faith, not fear. I have broke alot of Subaru rules, and my 97 Subaru is still going with 268,000 miles. I torque my crank pully with only 90 ft. lbs. and get blistered here for it all the time. (However I will torque it to at least a 100 Ft. lbs next time) not because I have had any problems, but because these people are wearing me down.

I can't help you with this problem but you came to the right place. Sunday night I was working on my brakes and when I got finished my brake light was on and I could not get it to go off. So I used the search feature with (brake light) and found one of the causes could be float stuck to the bottom of Brake resovour, this was my problem and had it fixed in just a few minutes. I see this is your first post so if you have not tried the search feature it might help you.

Carl, no I have not had that problem with the Subaru, however I use to run a 83 Malibu on the route and the pads done what you were talking about. Sometime they would wear uneven on the same caliper, I never did know what was causing it. Oppie, The first time I done brakes I gave my brother in law who is a shadetree mechanic a small fee to teach me. It has saved me lots of money being I go through so many brakes, however no more brakes than most people go through, it might not be worth the effort.

As king of brake pad user (mail carrier) I have high opinon of the semi metallic pads that are sold at Auto Zone. Have you thought about changing them yourself they are really simple, and you can save lots of money. If you do try just make sure if your brake fluild level is full take some out with something that is clean before pushing pistons in. And if you have drums on back just do one at a time where you can see how every thing goes back.

Has anyone here ever used the hub tamer on a Subaru? I seen one I think it was on the Northern internet tool site but I did not see Subaru listed on their list of cars it would work on. Does this tool come with a good set of instructions. And where is a good place to buy this tool.

Check the rubber boots on the c.v. joints is they are tore up then it could be your c.v. joint are bad in the axle. when the boot goes the grease goes and the joint want last long without grease.

BMSMITH, thanks that is just what mine is doing, mine also does not have to be turning.

Thank's I will check out these things all of you have suggested. It is not a harness rattle, because it is loud like something loose in the front supension or maybe those joint's in column.

When I drive on rough road I have rattle inside steering column, does any one have any ideal what may be loose in their? Or how much trouble it is to take apart to look.

Harbor Freight sells a really good chain wrench, it is much bigger than the chain vise grips and it only cost around 20.00 dollars. Most manual's call for around 90 to 100 ft. pounds of torque on the crank bolt. (however people here totally disagree with this) they claim you need around 120.

I don't know what the E.J. 25 engine is, but on my 2.2 I have been able to get crank pulley off several times with out any special tools. Just catch it at 9:00 and 3:00 and wiggle in and out while pulling straight back.

If you have fuel get a meter and check the coil pact, a good manual will tell you how. Also are you sure the transmisson is not causing it to stall. Our 92 Buick with auto trans. would stall when we stopped at stop sign, just like a standard trans would if you stopped with out pushing clutch in. Had transmisson shop put in some valve and fixed it.

I have never been inside Subaru Door, but maybe you could bolt the rail that hold's glass to the other side of sissor lift. ( just a thought)

I agree with the ones that are saying balance, the two front tires are most likely the one's making steering wheel shake. This is a real common problem with my car because of going on and off road putting out mail.

Forget Amazon, I went their and they only go to 98 also.

Check with Amazon, they usually have late model auto manual's.