tcspeer

I would rather replace with the 30.00 rotor from Auto Zone than have the old ones turned. I have not had much luck with rotors after having them turned. I try to get two pad replacements for my rotors, than I replace them. Auto Zone rotors hold up fine for me and I do about two or three brake jobs a year on my car. I agree with 99 obw Bendix has very good brake products, I dont know who makes the Auto Zone rotors but they work fine for me.

I agree with mtsmiths, I had the same problem and it was because of the outgassing. I bought a new battery and used the little felt things and have not had a repeat of the problem.

you guys are right their is no compression without belt on cams, I wonder why Haynes makes such a big issue out of getting the # 1 piston up on the compression stroke for timing belt change? I had always thought it had something to do with the position sensors. Thanks you have taught me something.

99obw you may be right I am no expert I have only done two timing belts in my life. But each time that mark is lined up either the #1 or # 2piston is at the top, I would at least think you would have to go back to what cookie said and at least make sure the # 1 was at the top. If you are right then I have been going to lots of extra work.

From Haynes Top Dead Center is the highest point in the cylinder that each piston reachest as it travels up the cyclinder bore. Each piston reaches TDC on the compression stroke and the exhaust stroke, but TDC generally refers to piston position on the compression stroke. More from Haynes Note: Because either cylinders 1 or 2 could be at TDC position when the timing marks are aligned, it is important not to mistake the wrong cylinder at the TDC position; make sure compression is apparent at the number one cylinder as the crankshaft is rotated and the notch on the pully is nearing the timing scale.

T.D.C. must have the # 1 piston at the top on the compression stroke. Use a compression gauge to tell. It will also be at the top on the exhaust stroke but that is not right. When you see the gauge start to show compression then line your mark up.

If it was me I would buy the Bendix. Rubber dust boots are tough to get in on my 97 2.2 I run without them. The life of a rubber dust boot on a car used for mail del. is about one year, the intense heat destorys them in a hurry. I have not had any problems running without them, it is no problem to blow piston out and put new seal in. Also I have never had to replace piston. This is with 279,000 miles with around 475 hiways stops each day.

That is not a bad price if it includes oil pump.

Yes that would have been bad to get water in cyl. I started with the hardest side to do which is the one with the washer tank. Next time I will start with the hardest plug the back one. Another bit of advise when you change plug wires is to save your old ones in case the next time you change them one of the ends pull off, that has happen to me before. I also put my old drive belts and raditor hoses back where my spare tire is.

Thanks Karl However it was not much fun while I was in the dark with flashlite trying to find out what was wrong.

Intrigueing I agree mine also have rubber gaskets some time the oil will find it's way out but that will be where it has the path of least resistance. Maybe you could see if gasket was gone or cover had crack.

Tiny Clark I agree you win. Frag I dont know about that oil, maybe it would catch fire.

Here is the Answer On the side where the windshield washer tank is I chg. the front plug. I left the wire off so not to damage it while removing the back plug. When I took washer tank off I removed the two elc. plugs and one of the water lines. I then laid it on top of engine so the water would not run out, however I must have bumped it because later I seen water dripping out so I tilted it so it would not run out. However some of the water had already run down in the plug hole. When I started it the water did not hurt anything it was down around the metal part of plug, after running it around half of mile it heated up and either the steam or rising level of water due to the heating caused it to get plug wire wet. I thought I had damaged a plug wire when it started missing and was in the process of checking them with inline plug checker when I noticed the end of plug wire was wet when I pulled it off. So I took and air hose and blew the water out and then blew the end of wire dry, then put it back on and it run fine. Watch the washer tank when you take it off.

Brian I wish my Subaru mail wagon was raised about half as much as yours, is the ride rough when you raised it.

Brian that was in reply to something above. Brett your answer is in your e- mail.

But God has chosen the foolish things of the world to confound the wise is the closest thing to right yet. I was not wise enough to figure this out I stumpped on it by accident.

Another hint, nothing was wrong or broken. plugs were right ones wires were good, nothing came off.

Brett-j No! did not use wrong plugs or break one, did not even take any out to fix problem. I will post answer tomorrow if no ones gets it.

Incorrect gap no! Remember I said I started it and it ran fine. (Hint!) the engine warming up had something to do with it.

Northguy Sounds like you have taken a door panel off before.

Have you crawed under it and looked. If it is on front of pan it could be crank seal or cam seal, could also be the oil pump. If it is near the rear it may be the rear engine seal. My rear engine seal started leaking at around 100,000 miles and I put Gold Eagle stop leak in it. Now it has right at 280,000 miles on it and has not leaked again. You will have to take the front covers off to tell if it is cam or crank seals leaking.

I think the Haynes manuals show the proper way to take them off, ( but I'am not sure) and they dont cost much.

Good try but no. (sorry i should have mention that the wires had not came off)

I still think the proper torque is 90 to 100 ft. lbs. overtighting is just as damaging as under tighting. When it is over tighten the threads are streched and that will weaken the grip the bolt has. Why not follow the specs. that are in the manuals. Ever manual I have seen has the specs. at around 90 lbs. for my 2.2 engine. Many people say the manuals are wrong but nobody has posted anything that shows the revised numbers. If someone has the correct torque please post it with your source of information.

Can you answer this? Sunday I changed spark plugs on a 97 2.2 when I finished I started the engine and it run great then I turned it off. About six hours later I drove it and within one half mile it started missing and Ck. engine light started flashing. No wire had been damaged, no plug was bad, gap was fine and no vacum line had been knocked off and no wires were crossed. But the problem (when I found it)was related to the plug change what was it?