tcspeer

Yes I think I would have water pump done while they are in their. I would think 133,000 is getting close to life span of pump.

I would have been willing to give up the little more compression, to keep the non interference engine.

How many miles? Have them check your idle pullys and timing belt also. I lost my 2.2 last week because of idle pully failure. Bent the valves in #1 #2 and #3.

I just bought some last week for mine. They are pre-molded like the radiator hoses. Don't know the cost as they were bought with other parts.

Found this post at another board concerning the 2.2 engine: According to the 1997 Technical Referance Booklet; "Compression has been increased to 9.7/1 by reshaping the crown of the piston. THIS ELIMINATES THE CLEARANCE THAT WAS AVAILABLE BETWEEN THE PISTON AT T.D.C. AND A FULLY OPEN VALVE" Don't know if this is correct but maybe the reason I bent my valves when Idle pully came apart.

Its already gone to motor place, wrecker picked it up today. I done more than double and triple check. I done it the correct way, the Haynes way, then redone it by marking the lines and turning the crank pully 360 degrees. This was my third timing belt change, the motor had 287,000 miles and I have done all the seal, timing belts and water pump since it has been out or warranty. One cylinder had about 150 p.s.i. the rest would not even make a puff of air. (Maybe) the motor trashed and ruined the pully but I drove it nearly 100 miles after it started squealing. Their is a bright light to this! those timing belt jobs get real easy when you do them around seven or eight times straight. Got to where I didnt even need anyone to hold it in place while putting it on. I bought this 97 Legacy Wagon new in Nov. 1996 it is a 1997 model but the valves was trashed somehow.

NoahDL88 Did you bend the valves and trash engine, or was you able to but new pully and belt and good to go? It sounds like your luck was a little better than mine. Whats worse is I am on vacation this week and was going to change mine. Even told a friend I was going to change it this weekend, and he said yes you could damage engine if it breaks. To which I said no not on this engine, I found out that is wrong.

Could have been cross threaded when it was put on. Wal Mart cross threaded one of my lug nuts it would not budge, I got big breaker bar and twisted it off and put new lug in it. If you are going to replace the axle why not get a bigger bar and break it. Get a big 3/4 breaker bar and then get a big pipe to go over it. I know that is a big piece of steel and you still might not be able to break it.

Mattocs I got this from Import Specialists in Ft. Worth their phone # is 817-921-3944 Iam sure they could give you information on their souce of engines. They do not have the engines there they come from another place. You can find some cheaper at wrecking yards but I needed my car back fast for my job and this seems the best way for me to get this done. I cannot recommend these motors yet this is my first experience with them.

99OBW I am glad you asked, I would like to go over this, I put the two cam pullys notches to the marks in back cover then I lined the notch on the crank pully to 12:00 and in line with notch on oil pump. I had a new Subaru belt and put the broken dots on crank mark, and the straight lines on cam marks. Teeth spacing was correct. At this setting the # 1 piston is not at top but in center. Haynes says to bring the # 1 piston to T.D.C. Why go to the trouble if you can just line the marks? Please someone tell me what the little triangle is for on the face side of the crank spocket. However as for knowing for sure I used a compression gauge and only had compression in the # 4 clyinder. I then tried the Haynes way of bringing the #1 to the top. I think if I remember right this put the little triangle on the face at 12:00:

I found me a 2.2 for my postal wagon today. They will tow it, replace the engine, with one they say has less than 40,000 miles for around 1700.00 this includes them putting my new seals, water pump, and timming belt on that I was going to put in my other engine. The one that crashed the valves when idle pully came apart. They say these engines come from Japan, they get them somewhere from a warehouse in one day. I did find cheaper engine's other places but wanted to try this all at one place for less hassle (I Hope)

Contact Jason Parker at sales@findusedparts.com he is in Washingon there close to you and has a Subaru yard. I live in Tx. and get parts from them. I have been well pleased and shipping is fast.

Is this engine interference? If not how did I trash the valves in it with a pully that came apart. A little free advise the timing belts will go much longer than 60,000 miles but change them anyway and check those idle pullys, if you hear one squealing dont continue to drive like I did. If they are not smooth rolling and have play in them they need to be changed.

Thanks for getting back on this, I sure wanted to make 300,000 miles on it and was at nearly 288,000. If this 97 2.2 engine is non interference how did the valves get trashed?

1997 2.2 I have no compression in any clylinders except # 3 it only has 50 lb. My idle pully came apart while my car was running. Can this crash or bend the valves on a 2.2? I put a new idle roller on and also a new timing belt. The cam pullys was lined up with the mark on back of cam cover, the crank spocket was turned to the little mark on the reluctor tag at 12:00 which was also in line with the mark on oil pump. All lines on the belt matched and the teeth spacing was right. Now with no compression is the valves bent or is the timing wrong. What else could cause no compression?

Still having trouble with my 97 2.2 What is the little triangle imprint on the front of crank spocket? Should I line it to the mark on oil pump or should I line the mark on the little things sticking up on back of spocket? When I line the mark on the reluctor tag the # 1 piston is not at the top.

I just had a radiator shop order me one, 178.00 for metal not plastic with lifetime warranty. If bugs is the main problem take the raditor out and wash and pick bugs out with toothpick.

(2.2) Engine. I ordered some seals a few years back and I got two that looks like the crank seal only different size. I also got two big O rings with them where do they go? Now I have changed the crank seal twice, but never the cam seals, the dealer changed them once when it was in warranty. If any one is wondering how long the idle pullys last well I got 287,000 miles out of mine. One fell apart this week and another one is bad. Please take in account this car is used on mail Rt. and so the engine is running alot when miles are not being added.

Thanks to both of you that should help.

On my 2.2 One of my idle pullys came apart, now I need to get my crank to T.D.C. must I put the center cover and pully back on and line the mark on pully to the zero mark on cover? Or is their an easily way to do this? I see I can line my cam pullys up without the covers. I also see a mark on the metal part their behind the crank pully.

97 Leg. Wagon 2.2 287,000 miles today while driving on my job I got a noise like a pully was going out, then it got quiet and I drove for about ninety more miles. After returning to Office I worked around two more hours then started it and went home every thing seemed fine. After I was home a while I went out to start it. It sounded bad when cranking on it then it started but would not rib up very high, and it was really raising cain from the front, and not running right. the outter pullys look fine. Iam hopeing one of the idle pullys has frozen but also fear it may be a broke or damaged cam on one side being it sounds like it is only running on two clyinders. Any Ideals? I wont be able to take it apart for a few days to look.

I have had good luck with a yard in Arlington Wa. 1-888-337-7757 or sales@findusedparts.com ask for Jason Parker. I live in Tx. and can get my parts in just a few days. However mine is a 97 Leg. wagon I dont know if they have many parts for an 04.

Seven Sisters Are the directions that come with hub tammer easy to understand, and will they do front and back?

No! not for a small fee. Independent shop might do it for a small fee. I took my control arm to a Subaru dealer to have ball joint pressed out and a new one pressed in total cost was $70.00. (labor only) Brother in law had wheel bearing pressed out of knuckle and new one pressed in for $20.00 at a small independent shop.

If your mom is O.K. rejoice, getting rear ended is a cash cow. If she is hurt then no amount of money is worth it.