tcspeer

Did you bleed the master cylinder? It has been a while since I chg. one but if I remember correctly you have to bleed that separate from the other cylinders.

Does putting an ext. on the end of a torque wrench chg. the torque setting? Or is it the same, I have heard it does.

Iam sure most of you know this but in case someone dont. The little buttons that chg. the air flow in the (Heater, Defroster, Vent,) can be cleaned where they dont stick with elc. parts cleaner from Radio Shack. MAKE SURE YOU GET ONE THAT IS SAFE FOR PLASTICS. Also the little drink holder will come right out by pushing the the little button at the back (at least on my 97 Legacy.) then it can be cleaned with the same stuff and lighty oiled so it will again pop out like new, which is better than pulling it out with your finger nails.

Take the little rubber plug out of the back and use a small screwdriver to push the adj. lever away from the star wheel, you will be able to fell the movement when you get on it. Then take another screwdriver through this same hole, find the star wheel and push the handle down towards the ground to turn it in the right direction. If this fails due to adj. that may be rusted you can get a big puller and pull the drums off, the hold down pin will pull through the little washers that hold them on. I had to do this once not because mine was rusted but because I did not know how to retract the shoes. Once I got it off I experimented with how the system worked and made me a little special tool for pushing adj. lever away from star wheel, and then wrote it down and drawed diagrams. The only thing I had to replace after pulling mine off with puller was the little washers for the pins, however I can not say for sure that is all it will tear up, as I have only done it once. I wrote this thinking you had drums only, if you have rotor drum combination then I wasted our time I dont know anything about them.

Do you have another key in your family for that car? If so try it, you said their is a different between the two keys you now have, if another key works well have one made from it. Keys wear down more than you might think, my sons pickup door was doing the same thing yours was but my key worked great so I had a new one made for him from my key and now his problem is gone. I had tried graphite and lite oil on his door lock before we found out it was the key.

Ck. the coil pact with a meter. When my coil pact went out it was popping on accelerating.

I now do my own front axles, but when I had them done it was 122.00 parts and labor for each. Thats way to high for a brake job, do you have Just Brakes up north? They are reasonable with their prices here.

Maybe the brake was stuck and started the fire.

My 2.2 has 273,000 miles on it and is due T-belt chg. My question is how long does the oil pump usually last I have not heard anyone here talk about replacing it.

After 30 years with one Ins. Co. and no accidents my wife run of the road and done around 3,000 dollars damage to her car. The Ins. Co. paid for repairs minus the deduction. Then a few months latter our policy was tagged, meaning for the next three years we pay an increased policy amount for that car. State Farm is our Ins. Co. I dont know if all Co. do this but dont be suprised if they do it to you.

I had a rear engine seal leaking on my 2.2 at around 100,000 miles and I used the Gold Eagle in the brown bottle (the one Paul Harvey used to advertise) for the leak I now have 273,000 miles on it and still no leak. Some people here do not approve of these stop leak products so you may want to get other opinions before you use it.

Good place to get O.E.M. Subaru parts is Litha Subaru in Or. Toll free number is 866-717-2512. I live in Tx. and I can get my parts next day with express mail. Or you can get them in one to three days with priority mail. On many things they are cheaper than auto zone and it is O.E.M. parts.

Mine got to giving so much trouble that I ran it all the way up,then I unplugged the elc. connecter and now it stays up all the time and it works fine.

I would say water pump, mine leaked like that when it went out.

Dont give up so easy on these things, send a certified letter to the dealer (return receipt) explain in detail what you said here and tell them that if they wont take care of it you will contact the District or Regional representative, I think you can get their address and phone number from your owners manual, if not find it on the web. I dont recall if they or called District or Regional but you can find out before you write dealer. I live in Tx. and had a problem with my local dealer and went through this process and it worked for me, except mine was a differnt problem. Most of the time just a certified letter will get good results with problems.

I also like the Barrs No Leak, I have never used it in my Subaru, but have used it many times in other cars without any trouble.

May be the water pump, mine is doing almost the same as yours, and I have not found the leak so I thinking it might be the water pump.

Any leak under the hood can smell like it is in the car. My 97 Legacy 2.2 is doing the same thing right now, and I also have not seen the water level go down in water tank resovoir. I am thinking water pump on mine, but hoping it is not head gasket. Just a small drop of coolant getting on some part of warm engine will really smell.

Has the transmission filter been changed? If the filter gets stopped up it can cause the transmission to whine.

I guess their is no need to ck. fuel pump if their is no spark.

Thanks, I will be looking for them. I have the 2.2 engine. I dont have any idea what E.A. 82 stands for.

Those photos of the crank & cam wrench pully holding tools that are shown in the thread about the timing belt change, sure look like much better way to hold the pullys than my chain wrench, does anybody know a place to get them and cost.

I have drums on the back of my 97 Legacy, and disc on the front, so I better let someone else guide you on that. I dont know how the emergency brake is set up on rear disc. I know that on some cars the piston is turned back in to caliper instead of being pushed back with C- clamp. Have you used the search on this board for this? you might try that.

The last post covers the job well the only thing I can add is just dont take them both apart at the same time. Raise both wheels and take both drums off then take them apart one at a time, no manual is as clear as the real thing.

Was it Wal Mart tire shop? They done mine that way one time and I went to Manager, and showed him how tight they were and he told me to buy new lug nut's and bring him the ticket and he would pay for them. Which I didn't do but maybe he got on to the one who done it. I carry a pipe to put over my lug wrench to break them loose, because they nearly always overtighten them at tire shops.