tcspeer

Did that inner pad wear out or did it come unbonded from metal plate? Also did you pull out the slide pins and grease them?

Yes thanks I will take the seats out. An I have a short peice of hose ready for the bypass of core.

Feel free to bash me on the stop leak, I can take it. It has been around since the middle of last century, and I dont know of anyone that has won any judgement for damages to their engines. In fact on the new packages of bars leaks it says something to the fact, the ones used by new car manufactuers or sometime like that, I threw it in trash so I dont remember the exact words. I used engine stop leak in my 2.2 and never changed a cam seal on it, and it had 288,000 miles. However the dealer did change one when it was in warranty.The engine would still be fine if the idle pully had been changed at belt change. I will post the date if it starts leaking again. So maybe then someone else will know if it is something they may want to try.

That is good information Snowman but for me its two sets of pads and then new rotors. I dont even waste the time anymore to get my 24.00 mic from Harbor Freight out of the case.

Thanks Shortlid I would like to have those directions, I took another look at my Haynes manuel last night and your right it dont look that bad, it just scared me the first time I looked. I put bars leak in it yesterday and it has stopped leaking for now. I know some here will think that is crazy but I have no problem using it.

Steve you are right about the pads moving that causes the squeal, but a rotor out of round might also cause the pads to move.

My heater core is leaking and I have no desire to try to crawl under dash to work on this. Does anyone know how many hours Subaru will charge, to change this? I already have the price for the core it is nearly 200.00. It looks like a very big job from what I read in Haynes manuel.

Jared, I also have a 97 Legacy L wagon, mine is fixing to turn 300,000 miles most of these or stop and go miles from mail del. You will do fine with the semi metalic pads from Auto Zone and the 30.00 dollar rotors they have. You dont need the little backing plates, theirs come with the metal back just put a little anti squeal on the back of pad. The most important thing I have learned about brakes is dont waste your time turning a rotor buy a new one. I go through around two to three sets of front brakes for each rear set. Be sure to remove some brake fluid before pushing pistons back in calipers.

Very easy to change. You dont need to change it unless it gives trouble and then you should get a code with the C.E.L.

I dont know how much movement you are taking about, but mine also has some movement in and out. I also dont know if it is normal, but it has been that way for years.

My 97 Legacy wagon had a rattle in it when it was new, turned out to be the top metal roof was seperated from one of the cross members. I had to go above the local dealer to get it fixed. Someone from S.O.A. from Col. ended up fixing mine.

Maybe the intake gasket is blown.

You can get what you need from Campbell Nelson Auto Recycling, Toll Free 1-888-337-7757, ask for Jason, he is over the Subaru parts. You can get your parts sometime in one day by express shipping. Or for less money shipping you can get them in two to three days. They are in Arlington Wa. I have been using them for years and I am well pleased with them.

Switch sides with the rotors and see if the rubbing moves to the other side. Could be the rotor is out of round, even if you did just put new ones on.

Blitz, well put! look for a P.M. from me.

I would like to let others know about rockauto.com also. Great site for looking up parts not only for Subaru but others cars also. Low prices, fast shipping. Check it out.

Very interesting Midwst, I have never heard of this.

Probably the only dealer that can cut the key from the Vin number is the dealer that sold the car, they sometime make record of code number with the sell. If not you can take the trunk lock out and get the number that is on it and take it to locksmith and he will be able to cut the key by this number. You may be able to see the number on lock with out taking it out.

My 97 Legacy does the same thing, if I put it in Park or Neutral, it will quit. Or if I kick the throtter up a little it will stop. I have not been able to get the answer for this problem here yet, but I think we will soon. I dont see how your problem could be related to the axle change, Have you tried putting it in Neutral and leaving your foot on the brake and seeing if it would stop?

They should be a little indentation line on the outter face of the spocket, not real easy to see, near the edge.

I think the most under used gauge is the one we all have, the air gauge for the tires. Proper air pressue will increase gas mileage.

Sitting in drivers side it should be on right side of engine a little more than half way back from front of engine, temp sensor is right close to it, if I remember correct. You should be able to look at Legacy manuel and find location. It has an air hose and coolant line that goes to it.

0.039-0.043

It has been a while since I done it but you need to seperate the ball joint also. If you can get a hold of Haynes manuel it will give good details. The whole hub assemely needs to swing away from axle.

If you took the washer tank off to change the plug you may have got a little water down in one of the cyclinder holes when you were putting it back on. It happen to me once. After driving it you may have dried it off. Also could be one of your new wires bad.