tcspeer

I used to change it about one a year but it is soon ready for another transmission so I dont give it to much attention right now. In fact I cant run it without the fuse in F.W.D. because of torque bind and it is really rough when I put it in reverse, and the transaxle seals are leaking bad also. I bought new seals for it but I'am not going to change them because it wont last much longer anyway. What happen to the 93 at 208,000? I had to get another used engine for mine at 288,000 miles.

I run a Legacy wagon here in Tx. on a mail route, I think we get hotter here mine has been going ten years and still same transmission 322,000 miles without a added cooler. However the right hand drive Saturn does not hold up as well the valve body has been changed twice already and I think it is due to the heat. In fact the spin on filter is leaking now and it looks like it has cracked maybe from heat. Is your Subaru right hand drive? I see from your post it is not a Legacy.

On the Chev. engine they can be replaced without removing heads, I dont know about Subaru. It seems like it would be harder for oil to leak from the seals on the Subaru being the head is on the side.

I know this is not what you was asking but I was able to buy a used axle from wrecking yard and replace it with the instructions in the Haynes manuel, used axles are around 75.00 dollars and much better then the rebuild ones from the after market auto stores. If you dont trust a used one you can get the ones from the dealer and they hold up good, I dont know if they are new or rebuild. I would not want to take one apart and regrease it and then reband it sounds like to much work to me.

I agree this is the best way to take care of this, I got my last used hub for 35.00 dollars if I remember right and it's very easy to change with the help of the people here and a Haynes manual.

The axle nut does not come off for a brake job, did the people that done the brakes also replace the axle? or did some other shop do that?

Smoking after starting engine is most likely valve stem seals leaking, at least that was what caused it in my chev.

I think you will be O.K. and yes it is tough to read that stick. Maybe it over flowed at the top of dip stick.

Have your freind remove the cover over the fuel pump and check and make sure the line that has the clamp that can be tighten is tight, it should be the middle one, the other two should be fine. I agree with other dont drive it like this.

Did you change the whole thing as a unit, mount, spring and strut? If you did I would guess the strut mount is bad. If not make sure to seat the end of spring in the little slot at bottom, also the two little holes in the top hat must face to the outside. Also did you make sure you torqued that nut on top of the strut with the car on the ground, off of the jack?

I dont have a Forester but I would think remove elc. plug and then should just be a few bolts holding it in. Unless this is easy to get to I think I would just wait it out most likely it is a leaf that will break up and blow out.

The Fumoto is great, I have one on my Subaru.

I just replaced a transmission a few months back, all you need to do is make sure the #s on the transmission match, it is a # somewhat like a vin #. If it is the same then the ratio and elc. connections will all work fine. I dont remember exacty where the # is but it is on top you dont have to crawl under car to see it.

His is a 95 so it is non interference, but it is still not good to let it break.

I would do the ball joint and then the alignment. Rusty brakes? they will be shiney after a little use.

The cars were L.H.D. when I was there but it was still under U.S. control then it has now been turned back to Japan so they may drive on the right now. Actually they are a lot of right hand drive Subaru's here in the U.S. I have two a 98 Legacy wagon and a 97 Legacy wagon between the two they have over 1/2 million miles on them.

I bet she is at Kadina, I know that is not spelled right but I am sure you know where Iam taking about. I use to go there to play chess at their chess club. I was not up on the cars they drove I just remember they were small or they more Subaru's or Toyoto's? Also I remember that they seemed to work on their own cars more then people here in the U.S. does.

I have two other suggestions, they may not be worth much but it is what I would check next. I would get a in line plug checker only a few dollars at auto store and see if I had fire coming to each plug. If that checked O.K. I would get a set of noid lights around (20.00 dollars)and test the pigtail connection of the injectors plugs. I had a # 4 misfire and was able to find it with the use of the noid light, mine ended up being the E.C.U. around 500.00 dollars. I still think your problem is most likely connected to that E.G.R. valve, was you able to get the Haynes manual and do the test it called for.

If the engine and transmission was out I dont think you had enough weight on the bearing to hurt anything.

I dont know if you could do more damage by running it until it quits, maybe someone else will know.

It leaks from the seals where the axles go into diff. I know because mine leaks bad. But it has 320,000 miles on it so I just keep adding more.

Cookie, sounds like you have been in this situiation yourself. Thats why I dont like any one else changing my oil always afraid they might cross thread it, even through I have cross threaded my share of nuts and bolts but not the oil drain plug yet, I did leave the drain plug out and let the oil pour out on ground one time.

Yes, it does work with the E.C.U. and what I read in Haynes, sounded pretty much the same as you described it.

Why! it's 350.00 dollars for a Mechanic to do this and then you must wait until they can get to it, this is one of the most over rated jobs their is.

I just checked the E.G.R. valve info. in the Haynes manual, if you can get hold of one it will tell you how to test and clean it, from what I read about it I think it should help you.