tcspeer

All engine's should have timing chains instead of belts, in my opinion.

Is the EJ20H four cyclinder? The only Subaru engine I have been around is the 2.2 .

If this has the 2.5 they do look harder to do then the 2.2, I dont think I would want to try it untill it got close to needing a new engine.

The things that need to be done is the belt, and check the pulleys and idlers, I lost a engine at 288,000 miles because the idler went bad. I am not even changing seals on mine unless they are leaking, but if I was paying some one else to do it I would probably have it all done while they was in there.

I am sure you are joking but if you need phone numbers to right hand drive Subaru's I get a new list every month from our National Carrier magizine, and would not mine mailing you a copy. Most of these are high mileage and needs lots of work. In fact I picked one up for 100.00 dollars last spring and have since made a good route car out of it.

If you are sure that is the wheel then I would check to see if the axle nut is tight. If it was left loose the bearing is most likely gone again. I would also check the brakes on that wheel.

Very nice, it reminds me of my 98 Legacy wagon it is white also with right hand drive like yours, but yours is much cleaner.

My guess is that it was a shim for the old motor mount that the other owner put back in the box when he finished the last job. I have never replaced a motor mount so I dont know, but I have replaced transmission mount and dont remember seeing anything like that.

The shims are not needed, I haven't used them in years and my car gets about two or three brake jobs a year. (postal del.) Did you have the rotors replaced? I have found this to be one of the main reasons for brake squeal, putting new pads on old rotors.

I had the ones around the pipe that comes down from the engine to where it turns to the one going to back of car welded at muffer shop for just a few dollars. I had thought about trying J.B. weld on it.

I dont have a 2.5 but you can take most plugs out with a good rachet, spark plug socket, and different size extentions. You may also have to remove things like the air filter box and washer fluild tank.

Just take the wheels off, then remove the two calipers bolts, I think they are 14 mm. Then remove and hang caliper to spring the two pins are the ones the caliper bolts came out of, they should move freely in and out, if not pull the rubber boot off of the end and pull pin out of caliper bracket and clean the hole and pin good then lighty grease and put it back together. If you need a wheel bearing you can get a spinder and hub with bearing from wrecking yard for around 35.00 to 50.00 dollars and then it is very easy to change.

Better to get one with low mileage from wrecking yard. They are around 500.00 dollars new. I need one myself but mine is a right hand drive so I cant find one in the yards, so I guess I will soon break down and buy a new one.

Check and make sure the brake caliper pins are sliding, they will make noise when turning if the caliper pins do not slide in and out easly.

Look under your floor mats also, maybe a heater core.Thats where I found my antifreze going. Soaked in the carpet.

If I understand your question I agree with North Wet, that is just a dowel pin for installion of the transmission.

Mine quit a few years back, and it was nothing but the connector loose at the fan. I just wiggled it a little bit and it started working and has not quit again, maybe you can be as lucky.

I think one of your new rotors is out of round, I have bought new ones before and had one be bad. You can get one new one from Auto Zone for around 28.00 dollars. Try it on the right front, if that dont fix it put the one you took off on the front left.

Check them with the Better Bussiness Bureau, very easy to do on line. I just bought a transmission a few weeks back from Landry's in N.H. I checked them with the Bureau and found them to be good so I ordered.

I think I would check the engine mounts, being the transmission is mounted to it also.

Someone was asking about Alias 20035, so I went back to some of his post and found this topic I started about torque sticks, I would like to say I went on to buy these sticks even with so many saying they are not accurate, I found them to be very accurate. I have had these for a few years now and used to check them with a torque wrench but now I trust them to be within a couple of ft. lbs. so I dont even check them anymore. However it might just be the right compresser and impact wrench that is making it correct, and they very well may not be as accurate on another system.

I think the answer to both questions is no. If you follow the directions in the Haynes manual for removing and replacing the axle, you wont need a wheel alignment.

I also like the two answers above, mine done this a while back and I sprayed carb. cleaner in the hose that goes to the idle air valve and it seems to be what finally got it running right. If you will do a search for idle air control valve you should be able to find the proper way to clean it right.

Are you driving when it finally comes on, or setting still? If you are moving it may have a short and the movement is causing it to come on instead of the others things you are doing. Have you reached down to the blower fan and shook the connector to make sure it is making good connection?

If you unplugged some of the yellow elc. conectors when you replaced the bag then you may have failed to push the lock forward on the plug when you reconnected it. When I replaced my heater core my airbag light stayed on and this was the reason why. After pushing it back to the lock position the light went off.