tcspeer

It looks like the toe is out to me, probably started on the front and once the wear patten got started it just continued to wear. But I dont know if that is the correct term for this problem, its just what I call it.

One other thing to check is where the bottom ring of spring sets in the bottom flange, look to see if any part of the last coil of the spring is shiny if so that means it is rubbing or hitting on it. You can put a little grease there and tap the flange a little tighter to the spring. if that dont quite it then use a large screwdriver and pull the flange just a little away from the spot that is rubbing.

Did you check the big bushing at the back of the control arm? It will have two large bolts on it, if grease is leaking out then they are no good, and after they get dry from no grease they also will make noise.

I changed all four struts on my Legacy wagon and also changed the two strut mounts on the front. I also have one that is clanking, mine is the front right the one that I put the new strut mount on, I dont have any idea why, so I plan to buy a whole unit from wrecking yard and changing it out and see if it stops. I dont know if this sound was in the car before, as I had just bought it and had not really had it on the places where it clanks now. I think mine is bottoming out from a weak spring.

For the ones that have not found it, go to junkyarddog.com there you can place a request for any part for any car and you will get back replys from yards all around the U.S. with price qoutes in your e-mail. I just ordered a transmission from a yard in N.H. from a place called Landrys for 395.00 dollars with shipping to Tx. included. I found this from junkyarddog.

When I changed my heater core, after I finished the air bag light was on. Thinking I had left one unplugged I started checking they were all plugged in but the lock device was not pushed foward on one of them. After pushing it foward the light went out. Check each yellow connector and make sure that it is locked. You probably will only need to check the ones in the area you worked and the places the other people worked.

Check your coil pack, if you dont know how get Auto Zone to check it for you. also check around and see if you can find wires loose.

Run water over windshield and see if the drain at the back of fenders are draining I think I've heard someone here call them crowl drains are something like that.

I have the old Black Max, a few months back it gave some trouble so I looked at Harbor Freight for a new compressor, then I went from there to Sears and I thought the prices at Sears were just as good and I am sure the quality is better. Luckly I got the old one fixed so I didnt have to replace it yet.

First make sure you have the big vacum line on from the air filter tube to the Idle air control valve, If the marks are lined up you cannot be 180 degrees out. Take the belt off again and line the two cam pulleys with the mark on the cover, then use the little line on the tab of crank spocket and line it with the mark on the oil pump. Make sure you have the broken line of belt with the crank spocket and the straight lines with the cams. Also make sure you have the crankshaft sensor pluged back in. If and when you are sure the timing is right and it dont start then check the compression you may have bent valves.

This may be a stupid question, but if you unpluged the crankshaft postional sensor or you sure you pluged it back in. Its the one right on top of oil pump by the crank spocket.

Did you replace this cap four months ago because of the smell? If it started after replaceing cap I think I would try another cap.

Haynes manual says 72 ft. lbs. for my 1997 Legacy wagon, I think yours would be close, I still like 80 ft. lbs.

My first thought would be the timing, that is what you worked on. Did you use the mark on the tab of the crank spocket to time or the arrow? I done my first timing job correct only to come back on the second one and use the arrow which is wrong you need to use the line on the tab of spocket.

I use a 80 ft. lb. torque stick, and it ends up around 78 lbs. when I check it with torque wrench. The correct value I think is a little lower but not much it should be in owners manual. quote=ericem]Hello my friends, time to do the brake pads. Now i have my fancy micrometer torque wrench and would like to torque my wheel nuts to the correct amount now that have one. So what should each nut be torqued to? Thank you!

You have the right idea get the compresser, and a good impact. It's the only way to start and do these jobs.

Go to junk yard dog and type in your request, they will then post it and you will get offers from lots of places that have them.

After checking it does look like most is covered under State law.

I may be wrong but I thought the lemon law was a Federal law, the dealer should have it posted somewhere in the dealership, if not ask them. I think they are required to provide you with the contact information you need.

Take the rubber plug out of the back, Then get a large nail and put a 90 bent on the end about 1/4 to 3/8 in. Go straight in with point sticking left when you get it in the slot raise the point straight up. Push straight until you hit the adj. screw then raise the end you are holding just a little and the point will go under the adj. screw then quickly level it back out and push straight you will feel the little adj. arm when you get on it you will fell the spring action, push it away from adj. wheel and hold it back then take a screwdriver and turn the adj. wheel up, this will mean you need to push the screwdriver handle down towards floor or ground. The adj. wheel will be on the side of the slot that is nearest the front of car so have screwdriver there and nail towards the rear of slot. If you cant get it this way you can pull it off with a three jaw puller, all you should ruin is just the little caps on the hold down springs. Then when you have it off figure how to retract the shoes and draw you a digram for the next time.

Don't worry, I just done the test for you, I had mine in the air with F.W.D. fuse in and yes! all four wheels turn.

Please remember that over torque on a bolt can stretch the threads and also cause it to be weaker. I also beleive the manuals are correct but I torque to a 100 ft. lbs because so many people her disagree with the lower torque figure.

Is the F.W.D. light on in your dash? I also have the fuse in my 97 Legacy wagon but have never tried the test you speak of.

If it is not trashed as mentioned above it will be if you keep driving it, take it apart and use a chain wrench to hold the pully and retighten it.

Maybe NoahDL88 is thinking about the year it was made and not the model year, because my 97 was manufactered in 96 but it is interference.