tcspeer

Have you checked to see if they can be done without removing the heads? I had valve seals replaced on a chev. V-8 without removing the heads.

I dont know what the problem is, but yes the shoes on the rear are the same, Iam also a mail carrier so I get to take them off enough to remember. One test you can do is with the car off pump the brakes and then hold them and start the engine, the pedal should then move towards the floor if it dont it may be a brake booster problem. Also you might want to check the brakes line with some soapy water in a spray bottle as you have some one else pump the brakes.

Did you find out why the heater is not getting hot? I was wondering if maybe the little thing that hooks to the heater box was reconnected. The one that allows the hot water to flow through the unit.

Then wait until it gets cool and squeze the two big hoses and see if you can get the trapped air out. If you will search the past posts their is some other suggestions on how to untrap the air. I really think this is your problem.

Your heater core is not clogged you need to get the air out of the system and make sure it is full of coolant. The heater will not get hot until you get it right. I take the cap off and let it idle and slowly keep adding coolant.

Was the floor wet inside of your car before you started? Also did the pressure hold when you tested it?

Your right this is not a fun job, I took my seats out when I done mine I see you left yours in, so you must be much younger then me. One mistake I made going back together with mine was not locking one of the air bag connectors and the air bag light was on. I was able to reach the one I left undone without taking dash back out so make sure you slide the little lock forward on them when you go back together. Also if I do this again I plan on changing the air bag bolts out, where they can be removed and installed with a regular socket. Also you can get a pressure pump for the radiator and hook the heater core back to the hoses and check for the leak. these are neat little tools that can be bought off of the Snap On truck if you cant find one to rent. They look like a football pump with different type of caps for the radiator and they have a gauge so you can pump to the pressure your radiator cap calls for.

I agree with nipper, I had this happen to mine about two years ago, I took my dash out and fixed it myself, however if you have the money to have it done you might want to pay someone else, it is not a fun job. It took me around 12 hours but it is only suppose to be a six hour job. If you have a leaking core it will have your carpet wet in a few days.

Artistic-gore, i dont know how to link to the other post but this may help you.

Yes I agree you will need a new bearing after pressing the old one out, most do come apart.

I do my wheel bearing, if you are having trouble getting the bearing housing out make sure you have removed the snap ring. Also if you will type in wheel bearing, I done a post a few months back with step by step details on this topic. Also when you go to push the bearing housing out put your adapter on the heavy metal race to push. The post mentioned above is very good. I used it to help me with my first bearing, also I bought a spindle and hub with a bearing from the wrecking yard and put on my car, and then I used the old one to practice on.

I agree with jamal get you one from a wrecking yard, except I would get one from close to home instead of mail order being you need it right now. When you take it off be sure and mark the top bolt of strut flange with a line from edge of bolt to flange and reinstall it to that mark so you will keep the alinement close.

That seems high, have you checked with Midas or Pep Boys?

Sorry John, I didnt mean to repeat what you said, I was typing at the same time, just much slower.

What Shawn says needs to be checked, the hose is around 1/2 in. in size and is in the middle of the vent tubing that runs from air filter to the black box that sits on back of engine. The hose is on the bottom of this and it runs down to the idle air control valve. If it is connected then take it off at the idle air control valve and spray cleaner in it. I think you need to use carb. cleaner but check the search feature and make sure that is the right thing to use.

Sounds to me like you need to pull the timing belt covers, I think one of your pulleys or idle that pull the timing belt may have came apart. That would decribe the rumbling under the hood and the over heating issue at the same time.

In Tx. it's around 500.00 dollars to remove and replace transmission, I dont know about the torque converter price. If you have the equipment it not real tough to remove and replace it with one helper.

Maybe the spark plug wires are breaking down.

Easy on the hill-billy, they are some here.

Before I got to your post I was wondering why no one had mentioned the choke, sometimes getting someone to move the choke by hand, open and then closed while you are trying to start the engine will do the trick.

I would run some fuel inj. cleaner through it anyway, if that dont make it go away I would replace the plug and wire on the cyl. you know is misfireing, but keep the plug and wire to put back if the problem is still their. You can buy one wire from some small town independent auto store and shops.

I would not change the back wheel bearing, I have 322,000 miles on the bearing in the rear of my Legacy wagon and they are still good, however the front ones have been changed around two or three times. I also would not change the shafts until the boots break. The other things probably need changing.

After looking at a tire site, it looks like you have the right word with camber. I have always thought it was toe.

It looks like the toe is out to me, probably started on the front and once the wear patten got started it just continued to wear. But I dont know if that is the correct term for this problem, its just what I call it.

One other thing to check is where the bottom ring of spring sets in the bottom flange, look to see if any part of the last coil of the spring is shiny if so that means it is rubbing or hitting on it. You can put a little grease there and tap the flange a little tighter to the spring. if that dont quite it then use a large screwdriver and pull the flange just a little away from the spot that is rubbing.