tcspeer

Yes, that engine is interference you need to change belt and at least check the pulleys. I had the same engine 97 2.2 and I kept the belt changed but lost the engine at 288,000 miles when the toothed pully came apart. I think with the miles you got it might be best to change them all.

Very good Shawn! How did you know it was pass. side? I see after rereading post the misfires was on that side, but I also had no ideal it had two chains, in fact I didn't know any Subaru had timing chains.

You can not see it in the picture but when you slide that bar onto the inner tie rod their is a 1/2 in. drive hole in the end for your breaker bar. The tool is much larger and better made then the picture makes it appear.

I also bought that tool , it is a great buy for the money. Make sure you order the new lock washers for the tie rods before you start this job. The inner tie rods I ordered from Subaru did not come with new washers, maybe some of the after market ones do. I did not use lock tite on mine but I was informed by the manager of Midas after I done the job that I should have he said they do want to work loose at times.

Call Lithia Subaru #866-717-2512, they have always been able to get me things I need from bolts to specialty tools. You can have overnight express mail, or two day priority shipping.

Remove the feed souces for the mice, (bird feeders, dry dog and cat feed and any other thing they might eat) then leave them only poison I took a 1and1/2 plactic pipe and tied to the fence by the car and put the poison in it so nothing else could get to it and this took care of our mice problem.

You should be able to take the vin number to the dealer where it was purchased and they should be able to get you a key. As for as getting the old one out I have heard a small amount of super glue on the end of old broke key or paper clip might work just dont get so much that you gum up the switch.

For just a few dollars you can get a inline plug tester from the auto store, it has a glass window so you can see the spark its a very handy tool. I take the fuel line off at the filter to see if Iam getting fuel, But you must be careful if you do this, and dont let the fuel and sparks get together. Might be better just to open gas cap and hold ear close while someone turns the key on, if fuel pump is working you will hear it run for just a few seconds.

Take the big hose off of the I.A.C. valve and spray some injector cleaner into it, this might help.

I wouldnt buy a master cyclinder yet, most of the time I have had a master cyclinder go bad the pedal is not low but the brakes must be pumped in order to mantain the pressure. I think your problem may be a bad caliper or wheel cyclinder letting pressure leak off, it can do this without showing fluild leak. For just a few dollars you can buy a brake line pincher from Snap On and then you can check each caliper, if one is bad when you pinch that line you will mantain the brake pedal. The reason I say this is because I chased this same problem and changed the master cyclinder and it did not fix it, I then took it to Midas and they found it was the front caliper by doing the above test.

Pads that I have bought from Subaru usually comes with them, most after markets pads dont. I dont use them anymore I just put the pads on a good rotor and apply light coating of high temp. brake grease to rear of pad.

On my 97 Legacy wagon I had to remove the metal brace right under the glove box to have room to remove the motor. It is only about the length of the glove box with a screw or bolt at each end and very easy to remove.

coil pack, test it.

If I remember correct, the 95 will have a little less horse power then your old 99. The reason being on the 97 and newer interference engine the pistons was coned up in the center for the extra power, this is why the pistons can hit the valves when something goes wrong. I would rather have less horsepower and the non interference engine. The spocket pully that got your engine is the same one that got mine a few years back.

I called them and you are right around 65.00 dollars, However I took the part # from your picture and called Litha Subaru and they ordered me one for around 10.00 dollars less. I would think with the Subaru part # you should be able to get them at any Subaru dealer.

If you have changed plugs and wires why not get a set of noid lights and check the injector plugs, that is where I found the misfire on my # 3 cyclinder. Turned out my problem was the E.C.U.

I still think the air needs to be bleed and coolant filled proper before changing head gaskets, why not try the simple first.

Maybe the heads need to be on the top of the engines like the old 235cu in. chev. engines that way you could see the leak more easy. At least on them you could see the coolant on engine or water in the engine oil.

Why head gaskets? After the themostart was changed the radiator was filled and Mec. says they was no leak, even if headgasket was shot wouldn't the engine stay cool untill the water is leaked out or evp.? It sound more like the first themostart was stuck causing the engine to get hot, and then after it was changed the coolant was not refilled the correct way, allowing it to get hot again because of the trapped air. I am not stating this as a fact just more of a question, can the engine get hot if gasket is bad before the coolant has left?

You may have air trapped. When engine is cool take radiator cap off and start engine with the heater on, add coolant to radiator every time the level goes down just a bit. Its always tough to get it filled back up right after changing the thermostat.

I think fuel pump, you did say it restarted once is that correct?

Look at your u-joints and see if you see anything shiney. As they seperate you will see the clean shiney part. Most likely the front one.

Someone here gave a great tip how to tell when a bearing is bad, if I could remember who I would give them credit but I can't so I will give you the tip. Raise both front wheels off of the ground and spin wheel by hand while holding the spring, if bearing is bad it will be felt by vibration in spring (compare with other side). I have only used this once but it was very easy to tell which one was bad, if they feel the same check the back.

I replaced the rear ones on a 98 Legacy wagon, I think they cost around 70.00 dollars each but it has been awhile so I may be off on price. It was a very easy job.

If you have a speedometer, maybe the cable? However I dont think my 97 has a cable.