tcspeer

It is easy to tell if you need the control arm bushing, As Bucky says when they go out grease will be leaking out of the big bushing near the front, out of the rubber section.

The long needle nose pliers sound like a good ideal, but I think the long needle nose hose pliers would work well also if there is room to get them in there. I use these to remove the plug wires on mine.

They wear out I am on my fourth one. Always the front U- joint that went bad in mine. I have replaced with one used and two new. But this Subaru has 400,100 miles on it and is used for stop and go Postal del. for the last 13 years.

Dave, I also have the 20 ton H.F. press. I hope yours comes with the new plates. Mine came with the flat ones, but the other day when I was in the store I see they now have plates that are not flat on one side which would make doing the bearing jobs a lot more easy. To find the one that is bad raise the two front tires off of the ground at the same time and spin the wheels one at a time while holding the coil spring. The one that is bad will cause vibration in the spring that you will feel with your hand. If they feel the same then do the back ones the same way. I wish I could credit the one that gave this tip here a few years back but I dont remember who it was.

I was thinking rotors also, but I dont know why that would have any effect on the gas pedal. I know their is a lot of towns named Clifton, are you from the one in Texas? I only live around 22 miles from that one.

For what it is worth, and I know most would not do it, I put the Gold eagle oil stop leak in my 97 Legacy wagon that had a bad rear seal leak at around 90,000 miles and it never leaked again. I ended up putting 288,000 miles on it before I lost that engine due to the toothed idle pully coming apart. But that leak never came back. This is the high dollar stop leak at Wal Mart and the name Gold Eagle is not on the front of the bottle it is on the rear where it says product of Gold Eagle.

If you have fuel and spark and changed the two sensors, I can think of two things you might try. 1 Check compression on each cyclinder. 2 Maybe change the E.C.U. with the other Subaru you got the engine out of.

Put you a inline spark checker on that # 1 plug, if you dont have one they can be gotten for around under 5.00 dollars at auto parts store. If you dont have spark in the glass window then change wires with another cyl. and check again. If you still have no fire with different wire you may either have a bad coil or bad spark tester. If you have fire to that cyl. then get you a set of noid light and check to see that you can get the #1 fuel inj. plug to light the noid light. If it dont light then you may need the E.C.U. or computer. If you light the noid light and the spark checker then your problem is probably the injector.

Sounds like it might be the coil pact, it is very easy to check it with a multi meter and the directions in the Haynes manuel.

Problem solved, the air tube from the check valve to exhaust was stopped up.

I agree great place, I ordered a hub for my Legacy wagon from them and got it at a very cheap price and it was from Subaru. It was in a Subaru box along with Subaru's plactic wrap and part number. If you have not read the history of this company and how they operate you would find it quite interesting, they used to have a link of it on their web site. I dont know if it is still there.

If you swap it out you can bring the old one home with you, then get you a cheap press from Harbor Freight, buy the cheapest bearings you can find and get a bearing seperator for around twenty bucks. You can then practice with this all you want, then you will never have to worry about spending much money for another bearing job. After you take it apart the first time it will finish destroying the old bearing that are in it but when you clean and grease it and put it back together with the new bearing you can then take it back apart easy without tearing the bearing up. I would not put this practice spindle back on any car because taking it apart and putting it together many times is sure to do some damage to the bearing. If you need the steps for doing this you can find them here under How to conquer the wheel bearing. The front and the rear are the same on my 97 Legacy wagon except the rear is just a little smaller and it has one more seal in the rear. And one bearing job you do will will just about pay for your press.

I would not reuse the pulley's that sounds bad, I had one go bad on me and it cost me a engine.

I got a code PO410 on my 2001 Saturn Wagon 4 cyl. engine. It says PO410 Secondary Air Injection Malfinction. Anyone have any ideal where I might start on this?

When you say housing, you are speaking of the spindle right? And not the housing sleeve or race the two bearing fit into. I can not see any reason the spindle could be damaged from the bearing going bad unless it chewed through the sleeve or race. And I think the hub would wobble bad before then. But remember, I could not see that axle stub in that photo here a while back until you told me it was there and I took another look.

Gary, I can help with this one. It is the hub that can go bad, the bearing fits inside of the race or sleeve and this goes in the housing. I replaced my right front bearing twice before I realized the hub was bad also. I have never had to replace the housing yet. There should be no movement or wear on the outer side of race or sleeve and inside of housing, or least I have never seen it on my Postal Subaru and it has 399,000 miles on it.

Have you tried to lock vice grips on it, and then tap the vice grips with a hammer?

When you get the inner tie rod removal tool from Auto Zone, go ahead and get the ball joint removal tool also, you may want to buy the ball joint tool instead of renting it. It is very cheap. They come out easy with this tool.

If you have around fifty dollars to spend you can get a nice inner tie rod removal tool from Harbor Freight. You can see it on their web site, you might also be able to rent one from one of the auto parts store. I got mine off without this tool but it is not an easy job, after doing it once I orderd the tool.

I am a big fan of stop leak also, I have used it with good results on oil and water leaks. These products have been around many years, and have not been sued out of bussiness, but I realize some people will not use them.

I think with a manual trans. it would be better to take the trans. out. The auto trans. is very heavy that seems to be the reason for moving the motor forward on it.

Thanks for the help, I got it running right.

Skip, mine only has three pins, do I do it the same as if it had four?

Cougar, I hope it is the T.P.S. being I have already ordered it, maybe I should have asked first. Skip, thanks, that looks like good information, I think I understand but I may have more questions when I start, so please check back if I repost.