tcspeer

My 97 Subaru Postal wagon with the 2.2 engine stalls or sucks down when weather is warm like now in Texas. It does this every spring and summer but runs fine when the weather is cooler. I have changed plugs and wires but this does not stop the problem, the engine does not die and it runs fine going at a steady pace. But when you start from a stop it hesitates like it has bad wire or plug. No check engine light, so I dont know what to check any ideals?

The grinding, is this caused because the new pads are wore down to the metal? Or is it grinding from some other cause? Is both sides doing this or just one? Are you sure your new bearing hasn't failed? Check your bearing by lifting the tire off of ground and spinning it, while holding your hand on the coil spring. If the new bearing is bad you will feel virbation in the spring.

I have a postal subaru (they wear brakes out much faster) that has been on a rt. since 1996, it is a 1997 model. I have many years and pads ago done away with the shims. In fact if you will get the wagner thermo quite pads they have a backing coating on them, and they give instrictions not to use anything else on them as it would reduce the quailty of the noise reducer.

I dont know if this would apply to the Subaru Boxer engine, But on a chev. V8 I had the valve stems seals allowed oil to leak down in the cyclinder after sitting for a day or so and it would smoke a lot on start up. This would also make the engine smell as it was flooding. After rereading your post, I see you resolved the smoke issue, so the above information will not apply to your problem.

91Loyale, I dont know is what you said is correct but I really like that answer. This topic has been brought up many times over the years and this seems to be solid information. I have had this problem with my 97 2.2 and if I shift up to neutral at the stop lights it also will stop shaking. I would think if it was a engine problem this would not make it go away. Edited in after above! After back reading some posts here I see Nipper & Noah have also touched on this, so I give credit to all three of you. And anyone else if I missed it.

If you are sure it is the bearing it would be best to change it now before it destroys the hub. You can save some money by buying the complete spindle from junk yard for around 35.00 to 50.00 dollars. If you chose not to change it yourself you should be able to have it done for around one hr. labor. The best way to check it is to jack it up and spin the wheel by hand while holding the coil spring. You will be able to feel the vibaration of a bad bearing in the spring. This advice was posted here many years ago by another poster and I have found it to be very good for checking bearing.

The drain plugs work well on Subarus, I dont know why ever car dont have drain plugs. Also Walmart sells a pump device that works somewhat like this. It has two long tubes like his with a suction pump device in the middle. It works great if you overfill a little without having to remove drain plug again.

Groaning noise can be caused by brake contamination, this can be from cleaning brake rotors with things other then brake cleaner. Another cause may be grease have gotten on pads or rotors from lubing slider pins,or pads lube contacts. I found this out many years ago when I cleaned the coating off of new rotors with gas. The noise was a groaning noise almost like the conditions you are speaking of. I had to replace rotors and pads to make it go away.

It probably dont have anything to do with the brakes. When you stop and it shakes leave your foot on the brakes, and then shift to neutral it will most likely stop that way also. I have been around this board a few years and have seen this question come up many times, with no answer from anyone that has been a cure all. My 97 legacy 2.2 still does this. I think the problem comes from the idle air control, some think it comes from axles that have been changed. Others think many other things. At one time I sparyed carbarator cleaner into idle air control valve and it seemed to help some. If you will do a search on this you should get a few ideals to try. If you find the cure please post for all of us to see.

The 3/4 in. hose (the biggest one there) that runs from the idle air control to the air tubing has come loose under the air tubing. Find the big black box at back of engine and follow the tubing to the air filter box, then look on the bottom about the middle of the tubing that connects these two, you will see where to push the 3/4 in. hose back on. When this hose pulls loose which it does quite often when changing plugs, the car will almost try to start but it wont stay running. Your plugs are black and oily because you are not getting the proper air for it to start and run.

I agree with Gary the play is normal, most of that will go away when the axle nut is tighten.

I not sure I understand your question, so please forgive me me if this sounds stupid. I have had x.m. radio for a few years and if the radio itself is satellite ready you can have most any audio place put your a satellite recevier in that will be under the dash or seat with no extra controls, and totaly out of sight. Iam not up on what comes in the new cars so you may be asking something different then what I understand about x.m.

I think if you will look up under the dash on the left side and find the plug that goes to the blower and give it a good wiggle and push back on the connector you may solve your problem. I have had this issue a few times already and that was my problem.

How many miles are on your Subaru? I have one that has been on a postal route for 14 years, it now has 424,000 miles. Around 300,000 miles I also had a clunking sound coming from the rear, I could not find it and neither could the people at Midas. I replaced bushing and other things on the rear trying to get it quite. Nothing worked. Trying to fix the shimmy in the front I replaced the tie rods, when this did not fix the shimmy I looked again and noticed the part where the tie rods screwed on to had play in them. I replaced the whole unit to get the shimmy out, to my suprise the clunking that had appeared to be coming from the rear was gone. Check and see if you have play in the rack itself not the tie rods.

Both ends of the springs on the right in the picture goes in the same hole. The other end of the spring goes in one or the other two hole, I dont remember if it is the round or oblong hole, but it will be streched just a little bit if it is right. The top spring will have the hooks facing you, the bottom spring that is connected to the brake adj. the hooks will face in. It could be your problem is with the emg. brake lever bar, it must fit in the slot that is on the adj. rod end, that is the piece that slides on to the adj. screw. You can see the brake bar on the left in the bottom picture.

Maybe the idle air control valve needs cleaning? you can do a search here to see how to do it, it's very easy no need to take it off.

Eppoh, I will P.M. you.

Are you getting a code? It sounds like it could be the coil pact, very easy to check with a Haynes manual and meter. Or just get one at the junk yard and try it. If it dont fix it you will need it soon enough. I also have a 97 postal wagon and I am now on my third coil pact. However my wagon has 423,000 miles. The first one that went out was doing like yours, the second one just had a cyclinder misfire code. One other thing to check would be the fuel pump.

The little float in the tank of cyclinder may be stuck down. Use small screwdriver and get it to raise back up.

Also check the bushing at the rear of the front control arm. You can see this right behind the front tires just look up for the two big bolt holding this bushing to the bottom of the car, it will be encased in rubber if this rubber is broke and leaking grease then this will cause your car to pop when turning also.

I have a game camara out by my shop, they work great in the dark or light and cost around 200.00 dollars for a good one. It is mounted in a metal box with a lock, It looks like a elc. breaker box and has big lag screws holding it to the tree. Also have a drive way alert in our driveway and one out back by my shop. It comes with a birdhouse cover, the receiver in my house will play a different tone for each transmitter. The camara and box can be bought at Cabellas, the driveway alerts can be bought at Home Security store.

Are you putting another complete strut assm. on it from another car? If not make sure you mark the side of the spring that is facing out. Also notice where the small hole or holes in the top hat are at, and face them back the way they came out. The ones I have done face out away from the inside of car.

You can check the coil pack with a muti meter, and a haynes manual. the instructions in there are real simple to follow.

I would try changing the bulbs, front and back you may have one shorting out.

Maybe, throw out bearing?