tcspeer

I will give you a bump back to the top because I know they are people here that claim the axles causes this shaking an they may not have seen this yet. If no one replys give it a search on the search feature under axles or shaking and it should bring some of the discussion from the past back up.

They are people here that claim the front axles causes this problem, I have not bought into this theory but your comment about changing the axles might give it some credit. They claim is the axle is a little longer or shorter then the oringial it will cause the shaking.

Maybe tightening your belts fixed your problem, if not the pullys and idlers inside your timing belt covers will also squeal when they are going bad.

Mine does the same thing along with others here, the problem seems to be common, no one here has found the answer yet as far as I know. Mine is a 97 Legay wagon 2.2 engine.

To remove please see my answer in your other post, as far as the lighter I would get one from Subaru because it has two wires that plug into it. Most likely the generic would be different. Did you check your fuse yet?

Chef is right there is two screws right above the ash tray when you remove the tray. But you wont have to remove the radio to replace the lighter, or I didnt on my 97 Legacy wagon yours may be different. I replaced my center trim and lower trim this past weekend. I had trouble trying to figure out how to get lighter out of lower trim so I will tell you just in case you dont know. The part that is on the back side screws off and then you push the balance through the front. Be careful when you put the trim back in the little ears break real easy and then it will rattle on the hiway that is why I had to replace mine.

I agree with the master cyclinder being the problem.

Way to go Matt. Where are you when I ask for help?

I would go to a good tire shop and have the tires balanced, and have them check for a seperated belt on one of the tires.

Sorry! I thought yall was ganging up on me. Three dozen is a good start.

I do it the same way except before I get it tight by hand I take the socket off and wiggle the plug. If it is straight it will wiggle side to side and up and down. Then I finsh tightning with the socket and hand, then I put the wrench on it.

Sounds like most of you have done more talking about brakes then working on them. From Haynes Automotive Brake Manual page 9-45 (It will probably be necessary to bleed the system at all four brakes if air has entered the system due to low fluild level, or if the brake lines have been disconnected at the master cyclinder. If a brakeline was disconnected only at a wheel, then only that caliper or wheel cylinder must be bled.) I like most of you used to bleed all four cyclinders until someone taught me the correct way. If you want to crawl around and do all four wheels it is not going to bother me, I was just trying to help you out. Next time you have only one off to repair the caliper or wheel cyclinder give it a try and then decide if you want to do the other three.

If this is your first plug change the most important thing is dont crossthread the new plugs. You dont want to have to deal with the problems that could cause.

Why? do you patch all four tires when you have a flat on one?

You only need to bleed all four when you disconnect at the master cyclinder, If you undo only one line that is all you need to bleed. Next time just push the piston back in with a C- clamp and dont undo the line.

I agree on the coil pack. And it is easy to check and change.

305,000 miles, it's a 97 Postal Legacy wagon. First motor made 288,000 miles and was doing good but I let one of the idle pully's come apart and valves and pistons got together. In the Subaru drive magazine a few years back they told about one that some salesperson had with around 500,000 miles on it, I dont remember the exact number.

I dont know about the back but on the front I took the spindle and hub off and carried it to a small shop they pressed it out and put the new bearing in for 30.00 dollars. You can get a small press from Harbor Freight for under 200.00 dollars, you will also need a bearing seperator tool I think they are around 30.00 dollars.

I have had this problem for years on my 97 2.2 and have posted here for help and have not found it yet. Have you changed the drive axle lately? Some people here have claimed the rough idle and drive axles are connected, I have not bought in to this but if you have changed yours they might be something to it. I think it is connected to the idle air valve but they cost so much that I have not tried changing it yet.

I had the same problem only it was the # 3 cyclinder. It turned out to be the E.C.U. Check and see if you can get a noid light to light on the # 4 if it dont light, then check to see if it has current if it does it will most likely be you need a E.C.U. also.

Sounds like you need to go to another shop, they dont know if it is the transmission or the crank pully but they know it is going to cost 3500.00 dollars. I am sure they will be able to fix it for that.

Will it make this noise if you are not on the brake? If it only does it when you are on the brake then your rear shoes or pads may be contaminated with grease or oil.

You have gotten good suggestions already, if that dont fix your problem you might want to clean the idle air control valve, you should be able to find how to do this in the search forum.

I think the rear pads or smaller to start with, so they may not be wearing that much more than the front. I agree with what the others say you probably need new rotors on the front. If you can afford it replace with new instead of turning.

Buy the manuel tire changer from Harbor Freight, it's around 40.00 dollars on sale. mount it with some sac cement just a few bags in a hole then bolt it to the cement and you will be able to do all kinds of things with your tires. It works great I wouldnt want to be without it.