Rooster2

My suggestion is to reinstall your old A/C compressor, if it was working properly prior to removal. You will prolly want to use new "O" ring seals when hooking up the lines. A new dryer would be nice, but not necessary. Suggest then going to an automotive shop to have refrigerant 134a installed in the system. Yes, the 134a conversion kits work well, but since it is necessary to draw a vacuum on the system to rid if of atmospheric air and moisture, you will need to go to a shop to do this. I had a 91 Leggie some time back. The 134a conversion gas works well in the system. Good luck!

You may also want to consider an auto upholstery shop that will redo your present seats. I have no idea on cost, but a quick phone call can give you that info. I am sure they could add better padding to make the seats more comfortable.

Nipper, I just replaced my hatch handle on my Subie last week. The handle is secured by two threaded studs that are part of the handle. The studs are pushed through holes in the hatch, and secured with 10MM nuts on the inside of the hatch. There is nothing to unbolt on the outside of the hatch. The only way to unbolt the handle is by first removing the plastic panel on the inside of the hatch to gain access to the nuts. Rooster2

If you have the standard cloth seats, I have to agree with you. They are not very comfortable. You might look to upgrade to leather seats from a "Limited" OBW. Look on line at ebay, or check a wrecking yard for leather seats. The leather seat is so much more comfortable and supportive. It is a simple bolt in.

Glad you got the problem fixed. Glad we could offer advise. Happy Subie motoring!

Before replacement, my handle would squeeze, and then retract upon release, but because of rust, the handle would bind up upon release just enough to prevent the handle from operating the next time I wanted to open the hatch. If I pushed the handle back further toward the spring return, I could get it to open. What a PITA until I replaced the squeeze handle.

My thoughts like others, the alternator is bad, maybe putting out some current, but not enough to keep the battery charged. Change your alternator, and all should be well.

To fix the problem, you need to purchase the squeeze handle unit. Applying some white grease helps for a little while, but the problem will return again in a matter of months. Best to install a new handle unit.

On my OBW, the hatch interior cover is held on with plastic fasteners. Prolly the same with yours. The fastener has a plastic circular peg in the center of the fastener that forces the fastener's " 3 legs" to spread out and create a friction fit. Use a flat blade screw driver to gently pry up the edges of the fasteners to remove. The circular pegs will fall out, when the fastener is pried out. Be sure to find each peg to each fastener, as they are needed when reinstalling each fastener. If your hatch exterior squeeze release is defective, new ones are available on line at parts stores or dealer. Cost is about $35 on line, $45 at the dealer. Two 10 MM nuts on the inside of the hatch hold the handle in place. A pry apart plastic clip attached to the handle holds the release rod in place. Since you have another car to look at as a working example, you will have an easier time completing this project. Good luck!

Is the squeeze handle on the hatch rusty? That was my problem, so handle would bind and not retract fully when released by hand. I had to push the handle back down, then press the "lock, unlock" electric door button several times. Then press to the "unlock" position. Then, and only then would the squeeze handle work correctly to open the hatch. Finally, I replaced the rusty squeeze handle, and the hatch opens perfectly every time.

Yes, humid air is denser with more oxygen, so combustion is better. People have notice that for a long time. 35 years ago, I had a small motor scooter with a 2 cycle motor and 50 cc displacement. Even with the scooter, I could feel more power and smoother engine performance when the air was damp.

I too, have heard of using moth balls, but don't know how well it works. A friend tried that, but it was annoying riding in his car with the moth ball smell. I have also heard that the electronic sound repellers don't work well after a while. The critters get use to the sound much like humans get use to hearing fire truck or airplanes, if you live close to where those sound sources are located. Keeping a cat in that garage at night would prolly keep the mice away. Also, since my wife and I have two Yorkie terriers, have learned that terrier dogs are sworn enemies of all rodents. I have seen one of my yorkies kill two squirrels and a mouse. Just attack and kill them right on the spot.

Yes, it looks factory, just that Panasonic keeps changing radio models. I have both a 98 and 99 Leggies. Both have factory Panasonic radios, that are different from each other, and neither look like yours, still there are similarities, so here are my thoughts.......... Judging from your picture, I would try to set the time by pressing in, and continue holding in, the button marked display. While continuing to keep the button pushed in, after about 5 second, press either one of the radio station "tune" buttons. I am thinking one tune button will advance the clock time setting, the other button will retard the clock time setting. If this doesn't work, while continue to push in the display button, try pushing other buttons in. I have one radio that uses the station preset buttons to set the clock, while the display button is depressed. Yes, it is frustrating, just like setting the correct time on a digital watch. If you keep pressing buttons, I bet you will be successful.

I hate to think of ugly as being normal, as I would think of terrorism as being normal.

Subaru has used several different OEM radios. Which one do you have? Can you take a digital picture, and post it here. If I see a picture of the face plate, I prolly can tell you how to set the time.

Thanks, I was thinking of using an OEM thermostat. I have seen pixs here of OEM vs after market. OEM has the quality, after market looked poorly design and low quality.

It has been three years now since I have changed coolant in my 99 OBW. I annually added a can of Prestone water pump lube and rust inhibitor to the system. Now, I think it is time for a flush and replace the antifreeze. I have also replaced the radiator cap. So far, so good, no issues with HG trouble on my EJ 2.5 phase 1. I have no issues with existing thermostat, however, is it advisable to replace the thermostat? I bought this car used, so I have no idea how old the existing thermostat is.

The front clip and tail light changes are not a pretty sight by anyone's imagination. Large circular two lamp system looks like something retro out of the 1970's. Retro of what? How and why did this restyle ever get corporate approval? IMO, it is the most dorky looking Impreza ever produced.

Thanks for all the advise. I appreciate it. Nice to see the step by step pixs of how to reboot a half shaft. That was very well ilustrated. After weighing options, my trusted garage will replace for $139 labor, $65 for a reman axel. Yea, I know it is a roll of the dice on using a reman half shaft, but so far have had good luck with reman parts from O'Reilly Auto Parts here in the midwest. My garage lets me bring in my own parts for installation.

I had to replace the slider. Got mine from a J/Y. Don't know if Dealer stocks the item, but prolly could order you one. Suggest you call other junk yards, if not too far from where you live. Any Leggy with 2.5 Gen 1 motor from years 97-99 will work. Maybe even a slider/bolt from a 2.2 or Gen 2 on the 2.5. Another thought is to go to any hardware store with the bad bolt/nut in hand. I know from going to an Ace Hardware store, that they have a wide selection of bolts and nuts in both metric and SAE sizes in stock. You should be able to find a replacement there.

I just did a thorough archives read on half shaft replacement. Most posts say to replace the half shaft when a torn boot is found. In my case, I have an inside torn boot on front driver's side. Not much grease is thrown out, and there are no strange noises to indicate that the half shaft joint is damaged. So, would my car be a good candidate to just have the inside boot replaced? According to reading the archives, there is not much labor to pull the inside half shaft loose to replace the boot. Any advise?

I read that it is the engine that is hesitating and nearly stalling. This sounds like an engine drive ability problem, not a trany problem. The Trans-X additive solves the problem of the trany hesitating to engage in the forward gear.

If the caliper has gone bad, that is not fully releasing when your foot is off the brake pedal, you will need to replace the caliper. If it has been "grinding," then the dragging caliper has worn down the brake pad and prolly put grind marks in the rotor. The bottom line is that you will need a caliper, rotor, and new brake pad. If you are somewhat mechanical, doing all the above work is not difficult, and by doing the work yourself, you will save a good amount of money. While you are at it, replace the brake pads on the other rear wheel. That way, you will have new brake pads on all four corners of your car.

I too, suggest rotating the tires to see if that changes or stops the shimmy. My wager is that the problem stems from a tire with a bad belt, or could be a wheel balance, or bent road wheel. Guess, I fully agree with what's printed above.