Rooster2

yep, that is what it looks like when the water pump goes bad.

Don't know the cost, but a mobile locksmith guy, can come to your home and cut you a key on the spot. I once watched a locksmith ply his trade at a Goodwill car auction. Some cars would be donated with no keys. The guy could cut a key to start any car in less than 5 minutes. I teased the guy in converstion by telling him that he was in the wrong biz. He could be in the car theift biz, and make a lot more money, until caught, and put behind bars.

I have heard the same thing about only three domestic battery manufacturers in the USA, and yes they do all the private labeling for all that is seen in the retail market. Several years back, I saw a chart of which manufacturer made what for whom, but I can't remember the contents of the chart. However, it is impossible to tell if one manufacturer makes the same quality for whoever they private label for. Agree that Wal-Mart can be a pia, and I would not want them to work on my car. However, their prices are hard to beat, and they are good on their guarantees. They don't hire the brightest people to work there, just mostly simpletons who don't, or can't think, and are good at following orders from bosses. Once you realize that, get a simpleton on your side, and they will move mountains to help you through their system, if you are nice to them.

If it were me, and considering that your car is 14 years old, I would drive it "as is" until the strut failed. Even if the strut completely fails and leaks out the hydraulic fluid, you won't get stranded. It would just give you a bouncy ride, and then you would know it is time to replace the strut.

Well, it is not a bad looking car. It just doesn't bring forth any previous styling cues from previous modes, that this is a Subaru. It has generic Asian car styling that represent a car made by Nissan, Toyota, or Hyundai. I am not troubled by the lack of window frames that has been a Subie claim to frame. Frameless glass just seems to promote wind/air leaks, with no positive upside. The drive train video shows a four cylinder, not a six cylinder, so I would be surprised if the 3.6 Litre is available on the 2010 model. Still, overall a nice looking sedan both in and out. I am curious what an Outback model will look like.

One last thought on a "blem" battery. I just remembered that any battery returned to a retailer, and then resold by them is considered a "blem" battery. Guess that can be good or bad, but I have never had a blem battery turn out to be a lemmon.

see if you can learn when the timing belt, water pump, and pulleys were last replaced. The 96 with the 2.2 motor is a non interference motor, which is good, but still you don't want to be driving it, and have the timing belt break on you. If you buy it, prolly good to replace the spark plugs, and maybe the plug wires. Replacing the spark plugs is much easier on the 2.2 vs the 2.5.

I am not sure exactly what a "blem" is either, however, by definition, the company perceives some visual defect with the battery. It could be graphics, or a scrape/mar cosmetic defect on the battery itself, but it is not something that detracts from the performance of the battery. In the past, I have not hesitated to buy a 'blem' battery, figuring it is just a good discount on a good battery. Who cares about any cosmetic defect. The battery performed fine, but had no warranty.

I have never seen it discussed, but when a 2.5 first gen motor goes bad from the years 97 through 2000, does it make sense to replace it with a second gen 2.5 motor from a later model Subie? Seems like a later model motor could be had with a lot less miles on the motor than a 2.2 made in roughly the mid 90's. Seems like any 2.2 motor that I ever see in a wrecking yard has super high millage on it. Would the 2.5 gen two be an easy transplant? Any dialogue would be appreciated.

Are you sure the 98 with the 2.5 motor has head gasket issues? There are plenty of 2.5s still running around with their original HGs. I own two of them. If the 96 is still in good shape, it would be a shame to take its motor and put it into the 98. I have never seen it discussed, but when a 2.5 first gen motor goes bad from the years 97 through 2000, does it make sense to replace it with a second gen 2.5 motor from a later model Subie? Seems like a later model motor could be had with a lot less miles on the motor than a 2.2 made in roughly the mid 90's. Any dialogue would be appreciated.

I have bought Walmart batteries, and continue to do so. However, for some strange reason all batteries that I have bought from Walmart have been low on water upon purchase. The first battery that I bought there burned up because of low water within four months of ownership, and left me stranded. Such a shame too, because their batteries are highly rated in Consumer's Report and else where. Once past the low water issue, their batteries perform well. Check to see if your battery is low on water, if so return to Walmart for a free replacement. Just make sure that the replacement has sufficient water.

been very satisfied with Discount Tire. Maybe they have a store near you. Suggest checking out their website. They always have tires on sale with prices and sizing listed on their website. I also like their policy, that if you ever have a flat, they will fix it free of cost, even if you didn't buy the tire from them, like say you had a flat on another car that does not have their tires. Like too, that they do rotations and balances free of cost if you buy tires from them. Sound like I work for them, but I don't. Just a very satisfied customer.

Would inserting a fuse in the Front Wheel Drive fuse holder under the hood, thus turning this car into Front Wheel Drive, not All Wheel Drive, answer the question if this is a torque bind problem or not? If it now drives fine in front wheel drive only, then it is torque bind, right? However, if the power steering is still a problem, then I would suspect the power steering pump is inoperative because low on p/s fluid, power steering belt is missing, or the pump has gone bad. I would not think anything is wrong with the steering rack.

Use a half inch breaker bar with extension. The tip of the extension fits directly into the plug opening. Suggest using a 3 foot bar that you can slide over the breaker bar handle for added leverage. Use PB Blaster, and maybe some propane torch heat to aid in removing the plugs. I have tried two different times to remove bolt/plugs without success. If your car is like mine, it will be a bear to remove both plugs. Those sob's can be really tight. Be sure to remove the fill plug first, before removing the drain plug. Otherwise, you will be screwed, if you have drained the lube, but then can't pull the fill plug to add new lube.

I lived in Japan for a couple of years. It can be cold there too. The thermostat would be the same. Suggest you do a drain and chemical flush of the cooling system. The flush is very important in case the system was not serviced much during it's lifetime, and corossion and dirt were allowed to build up in the coolant passage ways, and now blocks coolant flow. Also, replace the thermostat, it may be stuck in the "open" position. Also, prolly a good idea to replace the radiator cap.

What is the asking price for the car?

Look at your existing struts/shocks to see if their are any fluid leaks. If so, that is a dead give away that you need to replace. Also, do the "rebound test" by pushing down on all four corners of the car to get the struts to rebound. Do they dampen the motion, or continue to rebound? I have had several Subies that have approached 200k miles, and the struts were still good, so the OEMs last a long time. The KYB GR2 shocks are a great value for the money. I have used on several cars, and have been pleased. They last a long time, and are a bit firm, yet ride very nice. They have my vote.

Yes, the packing grease is applied to prevent corrosion only.

a good idea, Thanks!

Well this was weekend #2, in my effort to remove the rear diff bolts to replace the diff oil. Today, I went to Harbor Freight, bought their half inch electric impact wrench. With repeated effort, I could not loosen the bolts either trying to loosen or tighten. So, tried someone's earlier suggestion of using a jack to lift the breaker bar handle. Nope, that didn't work. All I was doing was jacking the car up from from the suspension, and the bolt was not turning. I had used some Liquid Wrench spray last weekend, but didn't use it today. It is difficult to get the spray to penetrate the bolt threads, when the bolt head is turned upwards 90 degrees from the ground. The spray just wants to drip off the bolt and onto the ground. Well, anyway, I have a buddy that will be back from vacation soon. He has an air impact wrench. Maybe that will loosen the bolts. Any useful idea most welcomed! Thanks!

That is always a problem that I worry about when buying over the net. The price may be great, but if the product is wrong, or damaged, it is a super hassle to get it straightened out. Sometimes, it is better to buy from a brick and mortar store, where you can get a problem sorted out easily.

Yea, sure is high on the cute factor chart, uldn't want to drive it on city streets, only off road. It looks just too dangerous with nothing to crush but your front legs in any front end accident. Wonder why price is so high at $5,000? Where would you ever find replacement parts?

Prolly not the first, nor the last that a part has been mislabeled with a wrong number. If it were me, I would take the new part down to my friendly Subie dealership, and talk to the guy at the parts counter. The parts guys are usually pretty down to earth guys and very helpful. Explain your story, show him your part, and ask him to show you both # 10 & # 11 hoses. If he has both in stock, the differences should be clearly evident between what you have, and what he is showing you as parts # 10 and # 11. Buy the correct one from the Subie dealer if you own the wrong one, (it can't be much of a price difference vs. internet purchase), then return the wrong one for a refund.

My effort was last weekend without success. The advise I got here was to use a half inch drive (really breaker bar) with a long bar slipped over the existing handle for added leverage. I will try this on this coming weekend. Another guy suggested using the breaker bar, and with the help of a car jack, he literally pushed the breaker bar handle up to untighten the bolt. Guess that would work too.