Rooster2

Yea, I know know what you mean about the "oil slopped all over it" look. That usually happens just after having added ATF to the system through the dip stick tube. Some ATF adhers to the inside of the dip stick tube. I usually wait a little while before checking the level, or drive the car around a bit to get the ATF hot, and allow what ATF that has accumulated on the inside surface of the dip stick tube to heat up and drain down into the tranny pan. Then, check ATF level with the dip stick. Still, the dip stick is kind of narrow, so it is not that easy to read the fluid level.

Draining the ATF from the pan removes about four and a half litres, so by adding five litres, plus a can of Trans-X, the trany has to be over filled. Are you sure you are pushing the dip stick down completely inside the stick tube? With my car, hoses cross over the top of the dip stick tube, making it hard to see what I am doing. I assume you are checking the fluid level when the engine is at full warm up operation level, while the car is on level pavement, and the engine is running with the trany in Park or Neutral with the hand brake applied.

I understand the risk about not declaring the 2.5T motor swap to your insurance company as you say, but what is the difference in not declaring a turbo converted to your 1.6 motor? The non declare factor seems the same to me. Also, if you did have an insurance claim, how would the insurance company know that you have changed the motor? If the car was damaged in an accident that did not involve the front of the car, the insurance agent would not be looking under the hood (bonnet). If the front of the car got hit hard enough to damage the engine, it would result in the insurance company declaring the car a "total loss." No one would care, or notice, that the engine had a turbo.

Thanks guys, the diff lube change is now on my "to do" list. It will be a while before I can get to it. It is still winter here in Indiana, so it will take some time before the outside temp gets into the 50's to do some comfortable work outside. Just one more thing to do.

Is it a good idea to drain the gear oil from both diffs? Or, is it a matter of just topping off, if the oil level is a little low? The last time I changed diff gear oil on my Audi,I used a synthetic 75W-90W. It was clear in color, and a little pricy. Is it advisable to use the synthetic in a Sub?

Ouch........$2500, but better then replacing the entire engine. At least you dodged that bullett.

I have been lazy, and never ever checked the lube level in my front and rear diffs. on my two Subbies. I know how to do it, but just how important is this to do? I don't see any lube stains on the diffs that would be caused by leakage, so I assume the lube level is okay. Opinions would be appreciated. Thanks Larry (Roooster2)

That is a good price for a car that appears to not have sustained much collision damage. Since you don't have wrecking yards with Subarus near you, suggest telephoning wrecking yards in a major city that is closest to you. You should be able to find parts there. Many yards will pull parts, package them in cardboard, and send them to you via UPS or Fed Ex truck, without you ever showing up at their yard. I feel confident that you can source a fender and bumper going this route. The really small pieces you may have to source through a dealer, or an on-line parts store, but ask a wrecking yard too, as they are in the biz to sell parts. Good luck, if you are half way handy with a wrench, you can turn this project into a really sweet car.

Were you having a problem with delayed forward engagement? If so, has the Trans-X corrected the problem?

That should be the right amount of ATF with additive. I hope you added Trans X as the additive. It is the only known additive to correct delayed forward engagement. There may be others, but I am not aware of anyone mentioning that. I tried using Lucas stop leak, but it didn't fix the delayed forward engagement. How to check fluid level.......park on a flat surface, completely warm up engine, it doesn't matter if trany is put into Park or Neutral setting when checking fluid level. Leave the engine running, when you remove the dip "stick" to check the fluid level. Don't over fill the trany, as that is not good. Remember that it only takes about a pint (half a litre) of ATF to fill trany from lower hash mark to high hash mark on the dip"stick."

I remember a couple of years back that I went to a parts store to buy replacement plugs for my '98 OBW. I can't remember if there were NGKs or Nippon Denso that were in the car, but exact replacement plugs were expensive, like $8-$10+/plug for some exotic top of the line model spark plug. I thought that was outrageous. Projected total cost with tax out the door was $40+. I opted for a cheaper plug made by the same company, and it has run just fine.

I had a similiar experience a few years back. I knew the element media in the cat converter was loose, I could hear it rattle when the car was at idle. On the return side of a 600 mile round trip, the media decided to plug the exhaust pipe. It caused so much restriction, that the car would not go faster than 48 mph. I had to complete that trip on a Sunday afternoon driving down the interstate at 48 mph with the 4 ways on driving on the shoulder dodging road kill and lost exhaust system mufflers. However unlike yours, my car had some power up to a 2500 rpm, after that it wouldn't rev up any higher. However, after reading all that you have said, I kinda think you are having trany problems. I seemed to have read that your motor revs just fine, you just can't get the engine power to the wheels.

I use the Bosch Platinum plug, the least expensive model with the single electrode (the hooked portion). These plugs don't get gapped. I have 20K miles on them, and they run great. Yea, I have read here that Subies require NGK plugs. I installed the Bosch plugs before joining this forum. No complaints about Bosch plugs! They don't cost an arm and a leg, like other plugs do.

Try adding some stop leak like Barr's or the clear liquid kind,(can't remember the name). I have stopped heater core leaks this way. I had the same problem as you, interior fogging of the windows, plus the smell of antifreeze. The stop leak actually became a permanent fix of the heater core. It is a lot less expensive and time consuming to try this cheap fix first.

I have a 99 OBW, so I have the same Panasonic audio unit that you have. I don't think there is an option that an external CD changer can be added to the unit. You might contact Crutchfield Inc, http://www.crutchfield.com/ to see what they have to fit a Subie. The tech guys there are really sharp to know what car stereo will fit what car. They are very helpful to talk with on the telephone.

Ditto on above. The heat shield tinny rattlie noisy is easily self fixed. Search the archives on this subject at this website. A lot has been previously posted on how to fix the rattle. It is pretty simple.

ditto previous responder.......Barr's works well, just don't use too much of it. It can plug up your heater core if you use too much, as the tubing in the heater core is much smaller in diameter compared to radiator tubing. I used something called Liquid Seal or something with a name like that a few years back. It will be on the auto parts shelf near the Barr's. It is a clear liquid in a see through plastic bottle. It worked well, and my mechanic spoke highly of it.

Not the first time that I have heard of mice chewing on wiring, and causing a lot of damage. Guess none of are smart enough to suggst the mixed electrical gremlins were of mice origins. Now your car sounds fixed. Sorry to read about the high cost. Send the bill to Disney World in Florida, maybe Mickey will pickup the tab.

I would add bad thermostat and bad water pump to the list! Prolly, more emphasis o bad thermostat.

I have replaced starters on 2.2 and 2.5 motors without giving it much thought. I seem to remember two bolt connections, maybe one of which is a tapped hole. You say starter housing, is that really an "ear" that sticks out that is tapped for the bolt? Has the ear broken off completely? Is there anything remaining to thread a bolt into? I have had success using JB Weld to reattach parts like an ear, or to use some JB weld in the hole where you want threads. Let the JB weld set up a bit, then apply vasoline to the threads of the bolt. Gently thread the bolt through the JB to create threads, then unthread and remove. Let the JB fully cure, and the newly created thread can hold quite well, when the bolt is replaced. Just don't super tighten down. It does require a warm environment of prolly 70 degrees to get JB to work, but it will do a good job with some time and patience.

Sounds like you are caught between a rock and a hard place. Your mother sounds "hard headed," and won't listen to you, frustrates you, but you hate to see her waste her money with shops that charge big bucks and don't fix the problem. That is a difficult tight rope to walk. I don't envy your situation. I was a VW man for many years before migrating to Subaru. I have wrenched my own cars for many years now. I always liked the way VWs ride and handle. Their motors are "bullet proof" strong, but poor quality electrical and mechanical parts turned me off. I was always running to a wrecking yard for some part. In my opinion, Subaru has much better quality. Things don't break very often. Ez to work on the motor. I still own an 87 Audi 5000, which is simply a large VW. Love the way it drives, but dislike the repairs. Check out the Subaru engine conversion to Vanagan buses. Do a "search" on this forum to see how it is done, and the results. Good reading for a VW man. Hope your get your Mom's car running. Keep us posted on results.

I bet new wires and plugs will help solve this problem. Let us know if trouble continues. We will be glad to come up with other solutions.

Good that you located the electrical problem. Something that hot, could have caused a fire, and the total loss of your car. I bet fixing the wiring will solve your problem.

Yea, ditto, on that thought. Subaru OEM factory wiring is well made, and won't short out unless someone has been messing with it.

What year and model Subie do you have under purchase consideration? Forum members here will be able to tell you which motor is in the car without knowing the VIN. As far as 2.5 motors with HG problems, it is the phase 1 with the most serious HG problems requiring HG replacement. The phase 2 motors have some HG trouble, but it is more of a trace leakage of coolant to the outside of the engine. Phase 2 motors often receive a Subaru additive nicknamed "oatmeal" to stop the leakage without requiring HG replacement.