Rooster2

You don't list your car year or model, but if it is like my Leggy, if the fan is turned off, the system is turned off. To check A/C pressure, turn on A/C, max cold setting, with fan on high. I also use these same setting when adding a can of 134A refrigerant.

As mentioned by others, care needs to be taken to avoid stripping out the threads on an aluminum head motor. Unscrew a plug, and rescrew in a new plug on a straight line, with no torque applied at a side angle. Hand tighen only when first threading a new plug into the head. I use antisieze on the threads. It helps to lube the threads for easier threading into head, and also easier removal upon replacement in the years ahead.

Please let us know where the leak originated, and that you got it fixed. It is always good to get closure on a problem like yours.

Nipper......I agree with you, it sound like a siezed up A/C compressor. The clue, is writer says the squeal and smoke only occur when A/C system is turned on. R & R the compressor should fix the problem.

No expert, but since indicator light won't come on, it is pretty clear that you are not getting electrical power to the CD player. You would think that the radio and CD player would be on the same fuse, but maybe not. If the CD changer is in the trunk (my guess, since I don't own one) it may very well be wired separately with its own fuse. Check to see if the fuse is at the CD changer unit, or perhaps wired separately at the fuse block. Suggest checking all fuses at the fuse block, so see if any are "blown." My guess is that you have a blown fuse, then you have to find out why, if replacement fuse blows quickly.

If the motor is quitier, then good chance it is a lifter that is making the noise. My guess, is that after the 60 mile trip your wife takes, that the noise will be gone. Then, just the normal click/clack of the injectors opening and closing will be heard, as was mentioned in previous post. Let us know if the motor is quieter.

My vote is a leaking cooler line. The trany pan gasket has about 25 bolts holding it on, so doubtful that a leak the size you are describing could originate there. Besides, the trany plan is some distance back from the motor. It would be rather difficult for trany fluid to spray forward to get the engine compartment wet wit ATF

I have both a 98 and 99 Subie OB wagons. Both with the 2.5 engines. I bought both used. One has 112K miles, the other 161K miles. I haven't had any head gasket issues, but I have made it a point of changing the antifreeze every 2 years, and running new radiator caps. Telling you this will prolly put the HG hex on both of my cars. Someone who is in the know can look at your head gasket corner/edges, and tell you if they have been replaced, and not the originals. Replacement head gaskets are made better and more dependable then originals.

Agree, Fram standard line oil filters are really bad. I heard else where that there wasn't much to them. So, hearing that, I changed oil and filter, removed the Fram from my car, and made it a point to dissect the Fram oil filter. I cut it open to find very little inside the filter. I try very hard not to use Fram filters, but in a pinch, I use their top of the line, which has a little better reputation.

Yes, I would think so.

Subies offer great traction in all conditions, but they are not swamp buggies. They are not made for crossing water. I wouldn't drive through a creek that is any more than 3 inches deep. Then, I would drive very slowly to avoid splashing water on the electricals. If you want more of a swamp buggy, suggest buying a Jeep Wrangler with a 30" lift kit, and air intake snorkle that rises above the windshield.

Directions on side of Marvel bottle will tell you how to use it.

My same thought........you prolly have a sticky lifter. Yes, Marvel oil added to the crank case oil is a good product to fix the problem. Marvel is available at most any auto parts store.

I replaced the passanger door mirror on my wife's 98 Leggy OBW last summer. I tracked several down in wrecking yards, only not to have the needed tool to remove from the donor car. You do not remove the inner door panel. Instead, you remove the plastic triangular shaped cover on the inside of the car, that fits to the inside of the mirror. Just gently pry with a screw driver to get the plastic clips to release. Once removed, you will need to remove four philips head screws. One or two screws were super tight to remove. A regular philips head screw driver would not give enough leverage to loosen the screws. I had to use a 3/8 inch ratchet drive with philips tip. I had to push in really hard on the ratchet drive handle, while turning at the same time. My replacement mirror has electric motor adjustment, but is not heated. So, I did not hook up the separate connector for heat. If you have the little speaker, it is easy to move it out of the way. It is not a difficult job, except for philips screw removal. My replacement mirror from a yard cost $75.

I don't have the answer, however, this subject was discussed about a week or so back on this forum. You may want to look back through previous threads, read that thread and responses for advise. I do remember reading that fitting child safety seats is a compatibility issue with many cars, not just Subies.

I fully agree with Nipper. If over charged, it won't cool down well. I have seen it where the compressor won't turn on, because of an over charge condition. Let out some of the 134, and see if it cools better.

I had a 91 that looked just like both of yours. As mentioned, your new one has a nice interior for its age. My 91 had driver's seat rot, with the cover shredding off, and interior sponge padding flaking off. Nice your new one is same color as your old one. You can take the best of both cars to make one nice one. Have fun with your (new) Subie.

I know several people that have bought rental cars over the years, and have been satisfyed with their cars. The rental car companies do a good job of changing the oil, and other maintenance. I wouldn't be scared about buying a rental car.

Here in Indianapolis, they are popular. Prolly, because they are manufactured upstate in Lafayette, IN. Driving around locally, I always see 2 or 3 on the road on any local trip, plus there are several in my housing development. There are two dealers here in Indy, that do a good job of selling Subies.

I don't have an answer for you, but I know this is baby/child seat fit issue is a problem in other cars. Friends of ours cannot get a baby/child seat to fit the back seat of a late model Pontiac Grand Prix. Now, they are thinking about selling their Pontiac. You would think that the child seat manufacturer would provide a list of cars that their seats would be compatible with, or manufacturer a seat that is a compatible fit with any vehicle. Sounds like a no-brainer approach, if they want to be in the child seat biz.

Well it doesn't sound like it could be too bad of a leak, if it took the dealer to inform her that the AT was leaking. Did she know about the leak before going to the dealer? How bad is the leak? Is there much of an ATF spot that develops on the pavement after the car has been parked for a while? Do you know how low on tranny fluid the car was upon going to the dealer? Guess, to help, it would be nice to know if this was a little or a big leak.

All wheel drive is also very good when dealing with wet roads, particularily during a heavy rain. Sure good tires help prevent hydroplaning, but the Subie AWD makes a big difference too.

Yea, I too had a two stroke scooter back in the sixties. Yes, I remember that the motor ran smoother with more power in damp conditions. Cars, too, with carburetors ran smoother and stronger. It was explained to me that the damp weather condition was a factor of lower barimetric pressure. Lower pressure results in denser air with a higher oxygen level. The higher oxygen level gave increased performance to all gas motors.

I have received a couple of emails talking about adding "water power" to cars to increase gas milage. I blew off the idea, as just too wierd. However, a friend emailed me this morning to say the topic was discussed for an hour or so on "Coast to Coast" the night talk radio show last night. "Coast" is pretty much about paranormal topics, so I figured "water power" fit their type of programming. I did however go to the "Coast" website to read their write up, and got me thinking. Anyway, I googled in "water powered vehicles" to see what has been written. There were several links, one showing a Subaru with water being squirted into its carburetor (must have been an old car to have a carburetor), and a testimonial from one Subie owner praising the system for added mpg. It looks and sounds like a scam, with much hype about benefits, little scientific description of how it works, and no independent studies documenting results. Still, to see the video of the system in action is pretty interesting and intriguing. With all the public concern about high gas prices, it is easy to get people to look into alternatives. Has anyone here heard of this, or tried this on their car? Any testimonials?

I agree with the previous posts. It doesn't look like sufficient damage to turn the wreck into a parts car. If the rest of the car is in decent shape, it shouldn't take much work to repair. It is far better to accept a check from GMC's insurance company, and fix it yourself, and keep the extra cash for yourself. On older cars with many miles, it doesn't make much sense to take to a body shop for expensive repairs. You prolly have the talent and time to work on cars, or you wouldn't be on this forum. I am glad your wife did not get injured. I also know that most wives don't like driving cars with much visible damage. Guys don't seem to care so much, at least I don't. If you don't fix it up to be picture pretty for your wife, then make it your daily driver, or have as a nice back up car.