Rooster2

+1 on above, the filters that I avoid are the ones from Fram. IMHO, they are not made well, with not much internal media. There are also stories of Fram canisters bursting, dropping all your engine oil on the pavement. Not something I ever want to address

Fully agree with your business sense regarding getting a complete estimate of repair cost. That limits the number of unexpected bad surprises, that other wise can be fall you. I agree with others that throwing good money to repair a 2.5 motor with 170K miles is not worthwhile. A good used 2.2 motor should be very reliable, and serve you well.

used starters from a yard are easy to come by. Doesn't sound like there is much life left in your starter.

Sorry grossgary, I wanted to send you a personal message that I liked your comment, but prolly pushed the wrong button to say that I did not like your comment. Sorry about that. ..................Rooster2

Seem to remember, it takes 2 cans of 134a to charge from empty to full. Is this correct??

I had a bad leak of refrigerant, which I traced down to a pin hole leak in the metal tubing. I replaced the metal tubing and O rings on both ends. To recharge, I emptied half a can of 134 in the system, then vented it out, thinking this would pull out some of the atmosphere and moisture. Once completed, I recharged the system with 2 cans of 134, and the A/C has worked perfectly for the last two years. I am not proud of consciously venting 134 out to the atmosphere, but what the heck, if your system springs a leak the same thing is happening. Having a shop pull a vacuum, and recharge is just so expensive.

Not long ago, I replaced the fuel pipe in my 99 OBW. The fill pipe I ordered on line turned out to be the wrong one. Every on line parts store recommended the wrong one, by giving the wrong part number. What did fit was one for a 2.2 motor, but my motor is a 2.5 motor. Go figure ???? I had a friend install the fill pipe, so don't know anything about the white triangle, or how to treat the canister. If helpful, I can look up both part numbers. The one that doesn't fit, and the one that does work. Let me know if this will help.

X3, my 99 Outback has a 95, 2.2 motor swapped in it. Work was done several years back. That 2.2 motor runs great. It is plug and play.

If seized, then it is toast.

Recently had the same problem. I squirted PB Blaster over all adjustment points a couple of times during a week, and waited. After a week, the bolts came loose. Used a long bar attached to a socket drive for added leverage. You risk breaking something, but that is the chance you take.

Car-part. com is a good source to find a wrecking yard near you with a tranny that will fit your car. Subaru trannys don't break often, so a good used one is a good approach. They are guaranteed to work.

Somewhere I read, change the filter at 100K mile mark. I bought a used Outback many years back with odometer at 148K miles. It had never been changed. I changed it myself, cost abut $35 back 7 years ago. Prolly a good idea to change the ATF three times to get a good drain and fill. Only about half of the ATF can be drained out. The remainder stays in the torque converter, so 3 fills and changes after a brief drive between changes is a good plan to follow. Don't drop the tranny pan looking to change a screen. That screen never plugs up, and replacing the pan without it leaking is always a concern.

Check out Craig's list for a used Subaru. Sometimes, you can snag a nice car at a good price from a private owner.

Nice thing about Subies, is that they are made well with quality parts, and don't break often. Also, they are user friendly to work on. Belts, alt, P/S pump, A/C compressor are all up front, and sit up high, and easily worked on as needed. If you get a car with an auto tranny, it is good to know that there is a drain plug to drain the tranny fluid. Also, has an external tranny filter that looks exactly like a spin on oil filter. No need to drop the pan on the auto tranny, as the internal filter screen never clogs up requiring servicing. If the auto tranny ever does go bad, it has been broadly discussed on this forum that you are far better installing a used tranny from a wrecking yard. That doesn't happen very often, as the auto tranny is well made, and lasts a long time. The AWD system is robust, and seldom causes trouble. Some guys change the dif fluids, but I have never done that, and never had any problems. The AWD system really needs all tires to be the same diameter, and no more then a quarter inch difference in tread depth. Otherwise, the tire circumference difference is hard on the AWD system. My personal preference is an Outback over a Forester. I have driven both, and feel the added wheel base of the Outback provides a smoother ride, and is less choppy on rough pavement verses the Forester. There are a number of people on this forum, including myself, who have transitioned over from VW/Audi to Subaru. Seemed like VW/Audi drive trains held up, but I was forever replacing little stuff that would break on those cars. With Subarus, far less of the little stuff breaks. However, I do miss the way VWs a Audis drove. Suspension set up on those cars, and steering feel was/is great. Good luck on your Subaru search

I have used the Bosch Platinum plugs in both a 2.2 and currently in my 99 Outback 2.5 motor with no issues. I use the Bosch with the single electrode (prong). If you go with Bosch, but don't like the performance, then installing 4 each NGKs is no big deal. What is a big deal is to use high end spark plug wires from Subaru or equivalent. Cheapie wire sets from a chain parts store are a waste of time and money, and won't work well. Been there.........done that.

I am old school, so don't like the idea of using 0-20 weight oil. Seems more like water, as someone else responded. With such low viscosity, no wonder the piston rings don't wipe much oil off the cylinder walls, which allows it to get burned in the combustion chamber. Agree that the 0-20 weight oil is used for a little better miles per gallon of gas, not for better lubrication. Suggest you use 5w-20, or 10w-30 weight oil. Can't imagine that the narrower oil passages will have any trouble with a tiny bit thicker oil. In my old Outback, I use 20-50w in the summer time with no problems.

If you do a google search, using the words "porsche 914, subaru swap," you will find several websites discussing this subject. I suspect you may have already been there, but worth mentioning to you if you haven't done this. Good luck on your project.

Also............fyi, when replacing a head light bulb, don't touch the glass portion of the bulb. Any oil from your fingers causes extra heat build up on the glass, that leads to the bulb burning out quicker. Best to clean off the glass with kleenex and rubbing alcohol at time of installation.

yes, will go into a 97 Legacy, no problem

No, your 99 Forester has a single over head cam, the 99 Legacy has a double over head cam motor. Both motors are 2.5 displacement, but have different computer control management systems, so can't be interchanged. There may be some "work arounds" to piece something together, but not a direct swapl

Legacy and Outback have the same motor. Not really any performance upgrades available. Anything you would buy, like a K & N air filter won't increase hp or gas millage. Stock Subies are not good candidates for hot roding.

"motor is not even sitting in the car properly," could have a lot to do as to why it won't crank Since "totaled," it is now a moot question/answer. No need to find out "why." Just glad no one seriously hurt. That easily becomes a big and serious concern.

If no crank, sounds like an electrical problem. Do the lights work?? If not, first thing I would check is the battery cable connection. I have seen that come off, if already loose before the accident.

My two thoughts........ Could well be a bad fuel pump, or could be a clogged catalytic converter. However, in your land down under, does your car have a cat converter?? If the fuel pump is really old, I would be inclined to think bad fuel pump. My own experience with a plugged cat converter, is that it caused restricted exhaust flow limiting top speed to about 45 mph, whatever that converts to K/hr. However, engine did not run rough, just would not go much (rev) over 2K rpm.

Seeing bubbles in the radiator over flow tank is a dead give away that you have a blown head gasket. Exhaust gas is getting into the cooling system to be the source of the bubbles, and causes over heating. My 99 OBW did a good job of blowing bubbles, when it blew its head gasket.