Rooster2

Disconnect the battery would be my suggestion. If you are near by, start the motor every few weeks to keep everything lubricated.

Is the trouble only with the driver's window? Do the other door windows go up and down properly? If the other windows work okay, then it is not a fuse or relay. The problem would most likely be with the window motor, or the switch. The switches are known to go bad, as this happened with my 98 OBW. I found a replacement switch in a wrecking yard to fix my problem. Cost about $15. New one from a dealer is about $150.

+1 on this advise. I would follow this advise.

My 99 OBW had a similar problem caused by rust. Lubes would help for a while, but then the latch would act up again. Finally, I replaced the latch, and all is well.

I am guessing that the dirt protector that fits around the rotor is bent in, and rubbing on the rotor. Pull the road wheel to see what and where it could be rubbing. Usually there will be a shiny area where the rub is happening. Should be easy to fix. Also, a good time to see how much brake pad remains.

Suggest you look for a family owned muffler shop in your area that does torch off, pipe bending, and weld on new pipes and mufflers. If you find such a shop, they will be able to fix the leak for a small fee. I Just had the same thing fixed on my OBW for about $50. Don't bother going to a big muffler chain operated store. Their solution will ask you to spend $350-$500 for a complete muffler system from the cat on back to the tail pipe. You don't need to do all of that.

FYI........New cars sold in Japan with a 2 Litre or less displacement motor receive a sizable tax break, compared to motors that are larger then 2 litre. As a result you find JDL selling those 2.0 motors here in the U.S.

Normal use is no fuse. Install a fuse, car operates in front wheel drive only.

bad half shaft bearing is my best guess. Check the boots to the half shaft to see if any of the boots are torn. That usually points to which half shaft is bad.

Was this motor ever run out of oil, or near out of oil at any time? If so, this could have caused the trouble. Unusual for any Subie to develop a rod knock, unless run low on oil.

If it were me, I would check wrecking yards for a good used motor. I have bought two used motors from yards in the past, both turned out to be great motors. www.car-part.com is a good place to start.

The blower motor can become inoperable if leaves and gunk drop down from the bottom of the windshield to bind up the motor. That is very common with Subies. It is not difficult to get to the blower motor to see if that is the problem. Helps to remove the glove box to gain access. I had similar problem, and was ready to install a motor from a yard, when I figured out the problem. Blower motor worked good as new after cleaning out the accumulated crap.

Pretty sure that a 96 model 2.2 engine is an interference motor, so if timing belt slips or breaks, it can take out the valves.

When I was a young kid, my father would threaten me with a swift kick in the rump roast, if I didn't straighten up, and stop misbehaving. Guess the same applies to tail gate latches.

Prolly bent up to keep the ends from rattling. Got lots of bent ends on my OBW shrouds.

No, they are not interchangeable. The seat belt buckle would be on the wrong side, and I don't think the bolt hole pattern is the same. In the past I have gone to a wrecking yard, bought a passenger seat, and switched the padding to the driver's seat. That is not difficult to do. There really isn't much in the way of springs to deteriorate. It is the foam padding that breaks down. I use cable ties to secure the seat, instead of the hog rings used by the factor.

I did a little research in your behalf. Going to the website of Advance Auto Parts, I checked what they sold for a 2000 Leggie. Their part number is 68445. I cut and pasted what Advance Auto advises below. It seems like there are two different vendors to Subaru, or maybe two different vendors to Advance. That seems unclear. Also, talks about a "running change" in model years meaning possible interchangeability? Don't know that this answers your question, but maybe sheds some light on the subject. Please note: Advance Auto Parts is proud to carry comparable exact-fit parts from multiple vendors, as such, the item you receive may be one of two quality brands. Both brands meet the same fitment requirements and are equal in their performance and specifications. Product Application(s): 2000 Subaru Outback A/C Compressor and Clutch; Can Use 68445; CAN BE TOUGHONE OR FACTORY AIR PRODUCT DUE TO Running Change; New DCV14G Compressor w/ Clutch Can Use 68445; CAN BE TOUGHONE OR FACTORY AIR PRODUCT DUE TO Running Change; New DCV14G Compressor w/ Clutch 2003 Subaru Legacy A/C Compressor and Clutch; Can Use 68445; CAN BE TOUGHONE OR FACTORY AIR PRODUCT DUE TO Running Change; New DCV14G Compressor w/ Clutch Can Use 68445; CAN BE TOUGHONE OR FACTORY AIR PRODUCT DUE TO Running Change; New DCV14G Compressor w/ Clutch

My experience when the knock sensor went bad, is that the engine computer responded by retarding the timing. The engine then had about 50 less horse power, and gas millage was poor. When a knock sensor fails that bad, you cannot fail to realize that something is very wrong.

Had this same switch go bad on my OBW. Driver's window would lower, but not raise up to close. I found a good one in a wrecking yard. EZ to install, all is well again.

more likely just the rasp.

Like others, I don't think your cat converter is clogged. I had that occur on my old Audi, as the media inside the converter broke into pieces, and clogged the pipe. Exhaust flow was so restricted that the engine would only rev to about 2K rpm, so top speed was 45 mph. This happened on a Sunday afternoon, upon starting a 300 mile trip going back home. Drove most of the way on the berm of the road of an interstate with my 4 ways on, dodging road kill, and road junk. Most miserable drive ever. So if you can drive faster then 45 mph, then your cat is not clogged. Do a good tune up, and I think you will be fine.

I don't think the amount of back pressure is that important. Sure a little less back pressure makes the engine run a little better, but if taken to the extreme, back pressure that is too low, will make the motor run worse. If it is a good rumble sound to the exhaust without being obtrusive, then a performance muffler is a good choice.

Doubt that any resonator will be quieter then a glass pack, if anything it will be louder. Suggest looking for a short regular design muffler. I cannot remember a brand name, but if you look on line, I bet you will find something. Good chance it will be quieter then a glass pack, yet not that quiet. Another thought.......go to www.flowmastermufflers.com. Flowmaster mufflers will surely have something you will like.

Not a big fan of after market rust proofing by a dealer or anyone else. It just does not do much to prevent rust. Don't think much rust proofing is applied to the frame members, or suspension parts.

A good indicator that head gaskets are bad is to let the motor warm up a little. Open the top to the over flow tank located off to the side of the radiator. (There should be some coolant in the over flow tank. If not, add antifreeze and water to fill it about half full.) While the engine is running, take off the cap to the over flow tank. Look inside. If you see bubbles, like you see bubbles in a home fish aquarium, then it is a strong indicator of bad head gaskets. The bubbles indicate exhaust gas bleeding over to the coolant system through a breach in the head gaskets. The added heat from the exhaust gas is what causes the motor to over heat. Both my 2.5 motors exactly like yours, have blown their head gaskets. If the motor has not been repeatedly over heated, then the head gaskets can be repaired. If not the case, then best to replace the motor.