Gloyale

Nah, you can feel it unload and then rengage. I know what slipping clutches feels like. It happend to my Turbo wagon. I am sure that a valve is sticking or solenoid. The Trouble shooting Flowchart in the FSM supports that theory. Non of the symptoms are attributted to slipping clutches in the FSM. The one other thing possible is a failing torque converter.

Sorry nip but you aren't listening. It is not slipping clutches. It is consistent in any and all gear ranges, actually you can get the car to drive fairly normal unless you give it gas, then everything disengages, and revs go. It is not a simple "slipping cluthes" I am sure it is realted to hydraulic pressures. I am the fixer, not hte owner. I don't want to say "get a news tranny" to the customer if I can fix what he's got by replacing a solenoid or unsticking a valve.

All gears function normally when load is very light. Shifts through 1st, second, third. will free rev in 1st even if you stab throttle

I thought about this too. And also the brake band which would cause second and reverse to free rev if too loose. But I tensioned the band abit, and nothing changed. And a further test drive reveals that with very light load/small throttle it will run and shift up through at least 3rd. Put o load on, like stomp gas, or go uphill, and it get's nothing. Let off throttle, rpms come back down and everything hooks up again. All very smooth, but abrupt and quick changes from engaged to "free" I am thinkin the second time it isn't low, but holding alot of fluid in the valve body places it shouldn't be. I think it has blown a seal between 2 passages, and when the pressure goes high, A valve is opening or being pushed on the wrong side and something is diengageing I want to know too

So I've got a 95 Leg here, with a 4EAT. Some history. Last month, trans was slipping......Low fluid......filled up on;y to find it pouring out the rear output. Replaced rear output seal, all was good. Now(month later) trans again was low??? No signs of leaks, no ATF in front diff?No signs in of ATF in Coolant. Where did it go? Dunno? But anyhow, filled it up again. Test drive and the car will drive up at first, but when it reaches 10-20 mph, it suddenly looses all engagement between motor and trans. Gentle, not a thud or thunk. Just *slips loose*. Also, there is seemingly very little drive to the rear end, as the car peels out front wheels in dirt. No trans fault codes and I KNOW the AWD worked last month. Low line pressure could cause both problems? But what would cause the pressure to go low? Bad pump? faulty solenoids?(again, no codes) Could at least the "no go, free rev" aspect be a torque converter issue? I will be testing line pressure and transfer pressure, just want to check with the "think tank"

The automatics, being engaged by a hydraulic clutch pack, rather than just a locked gear, are more forgiving on gripy roads. I actually use my 4wd in my 84, automatic sedan when driving on slippery wet roads. The hydraulic pack does allow for a tiny amount of slip. I wouldn't recommend that for regular use day to day.

There is no Dead air open to the crank case in the heads. Except of coures the 2 passages in the bottom for oil return. But otherwise there is nothing in the head that is open to the crank case. I can tell you for a fact that that is a water jacket under the long bolt. I think they are drilled through like that now that i think about it. That is why that long bolt often has corrosion all the way up it's shaft, from the water seeping up between bolt and intake. Edit: I had it reversed, there are 2 long bolts and one short one. The 2 long ones (holes closer to block) are already drilled thorugh into to head bolt passages. The shorter bolt (hole closer to valve cover) would actually punch through to the area under the valve cover, which is part of the crankcase. So although there is no space IN the head that is open to crank case, once you put a valve cover on there it will be. Either way no problems drilling it out. Won't hurt a thing. FYI, on the MPFI(dual port) heads, one of the 2 longer bolt holes does already punch through into water chamber. Other 2 bolts are like the Single port heads

I've NEVER needed to do this. Not htat it wouldn't help, I'm just saying in well over a hundred Subaru Motor pulls I've never needed to remove one. If you are dropping a transmission through thte bottom then it DOES definately have to come out. Pulling engine, it can stay

It's cool, I am really just going on logic. The AWD extension piece is longer than the partime boxes here on the GLs. Otherwise the main case sections are the same length. Can't say I've put a D/R box from a GL in a Legacy. Actually, my buddy suggested to me that the it might work out to use the legacy rear section of prop shaft and use GL front section? We will be doing it soon to his car:grin:

It could be worth it for him since it sounds like the cars are both available to him for next to nothing. Also, if one where installing a lift kit at the same time............everything would be apart back there anyway.

They are identical bolts. It is only the recommendation that changed, not any functional change in the bolt or engine design. They are still not TTY.

You don't It's a M10x1.25

I've never heard of one having to be removed to do the EJ swap. The cable would run under the intake, between the 2 runners and loop around to the valve. That is how they are on EJs, so I don't see why it wouldn't be ok.

ughhh.... swampers are just so obnoxious to drive on pavement, kill milage, and wear out after I dunno, like 5000 miles?

Propshaft willl need to be lengthened, not shortened. The AWD legacy box is longer than than the D/R box. So when the shorter D/R box goes in the driveline needs to be longer. 93,94, 2wd, impreza axles will work to mate to the stubs. Or you could split the case, and swap the 25 spline stubs into the D/R box(alot of work) You will need an adapter plate, and a flywheel from a DL/GL/Loyale car, redrilled to bolt to the back of your 2.2. Everything else should be pretty plug and play with minor mods (wiring connectors, shifter, etc..)

If you are getting torque bind, but no code, you likely have sticking clutches. Replacing the clutches can be done trans in car, for about $150 in parts. CLutches themselves can be found very cheap actually

No they aren't. TTY bolts are used in other engines but NOT SUBARU. The aluminum threads in the engine would give WAY before the Steel bolt stretches. I think this myth is perpetuated by being printed in Chiltons or haynes or something. But Subaru makes no mention of useing new bolts, and acttually offers a page for *inspection* of old bolts for reuse.

Why would you want to get rid of the hill holder? Such a great feature. If your's isn't working they are easy to fix

You know, I'll bet this would solve alot of mysterious problems

Could have just been the tight fit of the dowel/alingment pins. As long as you were careful and got all the pieces in right, it should be fine. IIRC I had to use the bolts to get the final *draw* on the last on I had apart. I will be replacing a clutch set and solenoid this week so I will have an answer for you.

It's OK, a bunch of the bolts already extend into the cooling jacket. the bolt seals the hole. If you like, a trick we used to use on BB chevy(which also had bolts extend into the Waterjacket) is to put a dab of RTV on the very tip of the bolt threads. That keeps the water from making it's way up the threads and corroding the bolt into the aluminum.

The digital Dashes are notorious for that. Probably not going to be able to solve it by removing it, unless you are replacing it. The problem is almost always in the Dashes circuit boards. If you do decide to remove it, you don't have to mess with the Vac tubes and cables for the heater. If you carefully pop out the top and bottom pushbuttons on the controls(Def and Off) you will see 2 screws, one behind each. Once you release theose screws, the dash face will pull away leaving the Control pod in place. there a 2 screws along the bottom edge of the dash, and 2 more above the instrument cluster. The far right edge of the dash is *clipped* in and just needs a good pry/pull to get it out. If it is liveable, I wouldn't mess with it. If you do need to swap it out to an Analog dash, I can provide you with scans of the wiring diagrahms.

Nah, you shouldn't need anything but a big as wrench and a set of channel locks. Lowering the rack down just a bit helps, loosen the clamps that hold the lines and it can drop an inch or so.

If you can find a set of 14inch wheels (2wd 80's nissan and mazda, trucks, Chevy luv wheels, early isuzu trooper) I would recommend that. Cheaper tires. And actually you can ussually find full sets of snowtires used one season on Legacies for $100 bucks. 195/70/14 is stock legacy size and would fit great with no trimming.

Here's a different though treat the whole rear subframe like a solid axle. Air shock articulation of the whole rear end would be SWEET