Gloyale

Precisely. It needs to have good hoses connecting it to the Intake. it is in the presurized portion of the intake. You can "test" it 2 ways. First, check that there is 12v between those 2 wires with the key on. then, if you unscrew the valve from the T-stat housing, you can watch the vavle close. Leave the valve connected to the wires, and with the key on the elemnet inside should heat up and the valve should close.

Cause there is a low demand for them. Each one they make and sell has to recoupe a larger share of the development cost. There really is no point in boring an EA82. Most shops can't or shouldn't do it. GD is correct, a light hone is fine. If you're block has bores that are out of round, or worn out, then just find a different block. Use a Non-turbo block if you have to.

If the car is running, Wouldn't the ignition be working? And that "rev sensor" which controls that function would operate immediatle. Not on a 30 second delay. car would not start at all. I believe you're float is either sticking or adjusted too low.

Clean the MAF, tighten all connections between it and the Throttle body.

They still bolt toghether just fine.

Did you replace the actual tensioner? or just it's pulley. I've had the experience of those tensioners not exerting enough force, adn allowing the belt to slap as it went around. take off the drivers side belt cover and run the engine, see if the belt is slapping.

There could be a short on the wire for the dash gauge. like if it has rubbed insulation very thin, it could be randomly grounding out which will peg the gauge. It is unlikely that a headgasket would cause such a sudden rise and fall in temps. If ti was actaully that hot, it would take a while to cool back down, and wouldn't do so if the HG was bad and the block was full of gasses. Check that wire for a short to ground.

Let your axles wear in for a while and it should subside.

Split boots are a band aid solution. Good to get you home on a long trip, but not much else.

I preffer to reboot my own axles for wheelin. The aftermarket axles are often junk, rebuild, or wholy new made in china parts. I recently replaced one that was less than a year old. Outer joint had grenaded. OEM axles are the best option, reboot them as soon as you notice a tear.

BS man. Sorry. But all EA82s use the same front hub. All non turbo EA82 axles will interchange. Only turbo and/or fulltime 4wd models used 25 spline axles that will not work. Still those would easily interchange if the proper trans was installed as well. Rear are different, but of course he wouldn't be using spare rear axles on a 2wd.

If: Then:

I think he means the Factory Service Manual. Not the owners Manual. If it is all 4 books for $75 on ebay that is a good deal. I've paid an average of $100-150 for complete sets in decent shape. They are totally worth it, it will be the best money you ever spent on the car.

They are totally interchangable

I've seen this a few times. In both cases it was poor connection at the main engine harness connection, 3 big connectors, passenger side, top rear of engine. I actually had to reach in with a very small tool and crimp the female side of the connections. Never did trace excactly which pin/s it was.

If you go with King or H6 springs, and you are worried about your axle overextending, you could grab the 1 1/4 inch spacer from Outback crossmember. Probably need to grab the longer bolts that go with it, or get new ones. Remember to also get the mount for the rear pivot of the lower control arm. it also has a drop of about 1 1/4 inches. This will keep your'e axle close to stock outback geometry. And would be less than an hours work to do.

Orange digi or Green?

Search "mizpah" they rebuild them for about 5 bucks a piece.

Everything else would work too. Only stuff that is different is that the 86 will be carbed and the 93 is FI But the 86 engine could still be bolted into the 93. Also things like brakes, axles, hub/knuckles, calipers, wheel cylinders, headlights, window glass......etc, etc.... will all swap between the 2 cars.

Impreza and Legacy are on the same platform. Same track, Same suspension crossmembers and all. They are virtually the same car, just a hair shorter and with fewer options(drum rear brakes) But the Imp is a few inches shorter wheelbase, so that would be where you may run into an issue. I am sure it would be close, and might work. If anything a muffler shop could extend the midpipe by 3 or 4 inches pretty cheaply.

Napa should have them or be able to get them

So, update. The line pressure test is low. Stall test is slightly low but passes. So, TQ is likely OK, but it seems the pump is shot. In addition there is a whine like a Power steering pump whine, but from the trans, so there is more evidence of bad pump So I removed the trans, and also found ALOT of heat scorching of the metal on the pump drive tube. Heat scorching was at the end where it mates to pump. Also the fluid looked like slightly red coffee, grounds and all. I'll try to get pics up when I disassemble the pump.

The GT has a 2.5 = Interferance motor, and possible Headgasket trouble/ The 96 LSi will be a 2.2, non interferance motor, ans has less miles.

Okay so the car was properly installed in a Turbo car? Is that GL-10 a turbo? if so it IS likely a 3.7. Count the stub splines 25=turbo=3.7, 23=nonturbo=3.9

Well, it is likely a good car. I'll bet it is the mainshaft bearings in the TRAN. The TB's ussually only make noise at idle. Good news is I've seen and driven lots of them with kinda noisy transmissions, and they seem to hold up fine. At least until the front seal blows and you get gear oil dripping out of the bellhousing. Even so, replaceing both bearings and resealing the tranny can be done for less than 100 in parts. Search for posts started by me for " Bearing replacment" you'll get my writeup