Gloyale

I'd do the strut lift first. It is cheap and easily done in a day. no snags to run into really. It also allows clearance of larger tires right away without different offset rims. The full block lift will be a compatible compliment in the future.

It may be a 2.2 already if it is a manual trans. At any rate, sounds like a headgasket leak that hasn't gotten way bad yet.

Yeah, I just couldn't pass on it.

I got her for $375, trailered to my shop. Not sure I understand what you mean by *too much angle* If you drop all suspension by the same amount you could do a 20 inch lift with no change in angles for CV shafts Interior is rough, filled with extra parts and steel. 5spd D/R is the only thing in the engine bay. Original running EA81 and 4spd D/R were included, but removed from car and seperate. Looks as though it was stored well(bag over the carb, aircleaner bolted back on)

Just picked up a new wheeler project. Half finished by the PO. Please post response in my thread in the OFFROAD forum.

I disagree. I am pretty sure there is an adjustment. The bolt holes are larger than the bolts so there is SOME adjustment for sure.

Sweet deal. Couldn't pass this up. The guy who built the lift is really cool. His intentions were originally for a transfercase as well. You can see the a rear diff mounted at the front. None of the T-case support is built. He was going to have SOLID motor mounts to the frame hence the pillars with plates welded to them. I think I am going to take it back to a conventional Subaru layout, and just utilize the 5spd D/R already stuffed in there. EJ22 in front of it will be plenty of power to turn the 30 in tires that will go on it. (about 28's on there now 225/75/15)

Not all engine codes are failed sensors. You may have a problem in the circuit. Or....you may have a problem with knocking in you're engine from some mechanical problem. A little piston slap could be setting of the knock sensor,...or something worse.....no way to tell till you rule out the circuit for trouble. If it is not electrical, and you are still getting a persistent code, ghetto fix is to bolt it to the open hole on top of the bell housing, further up and away from crank.

rear toe can also be adjusted via the 3 bolts that hold the inner arm to the trailingh arm.

No, Subaru's don't use "stretch" bolts. EA82 bolts are actually beefier than EJ bolts. M11 EA vs. M10 EJ

Check the small coolant hose that runs front to back over the intake. it runs just under the throttle cable, and can sometimes interfere. Espescially if it has been replaced with straight hose, instead of the factory bent hose.

There was a CHERRY one just likle this at WCCS X. It was identical and had only 16k

The materials are nearly the same. The engine design is very similar. The set, loosen, tighten to angle method just seems better. They switched to it for a reason. I sometimes feel I have tightened the bolt sufficiently, but the torque hasn't reached spec and I have ended up loosing threads(stripped) Other times, the torrque is quite high on one bolt, even when I haven't turned it as far as the others. Just a hunch really. I figure it was worth a shot rather than just overtorquing or having to retorque (which I've done, but I don't like doing) using off brand gaskets and such. I didn't say I recommend it. Just trying it on my wheeler. Just trying to use up a pile of EA82s I've got.

Well, hmm. Slightly more HP, about 700 lbs less weight, and 7 years newer. No real shocker there

Actually you could still get carbs from subaru till 89 on hatches and Justy(?) As well as in other parts of the world. Just nit picking......sorry

BTW, you are really not likely to hurt a thing by driving with the check engine light on. Now driving with the OIL light on.......that is bad.

Green= test mode, timing setting white= read memory Both hooked up at the same time= clear memory Both should be unhooked after servicing for normal driving.

It ends up being around 60 ft/lbs. Hard to tell, cause I'd have to overtorque it more to find out just how much there is. But I really believe that tightening by angle get's the the head to the most even compression. Torque can too easily be affected by bolt friction. Espescially with reused bolts in old threads that have been torqued who knows how many times. I've done 2 EA82s(one is turbo) this way so far, and both are holding up fine. Long term, the jury is still out.....but I am quite confident they it's okay.

Swap in the 2.2 and also swap to the 2.2 ECU. The 2.2 ECU won't be looking for an EGR solenoid, so no code

It's to pull the pistons TO split the block. Splitting the block really can't be done without removing the pistons. There is a way to cheat, and split the case, then unbolt the rods from the crank. But it is a PITA, and not how the engine was designed.

Only if he's driving uphill. LOL

Plug in BOTH sets of connectors. Rev engine over 2000 for 40 seconds or more. Drive it more than 1 mph back then forward. CEL light will stop flashing and come on solid when done. This is the "clear memory" mode. If it flashes a code still, then that code is still active and won't clear. Should clear all codes.

Loyales they were moved. They are under the hood, just behind the drivers side strut tower, near the windshield wiper motor. Green and White.

The nut has rounded corners. Just means a big Cresent or Open ended wrench won't work. A proper size socket works easy, espescially with a good impact.

See the hole with the notch in it? Rotate the plate clockwise, until the cable end can slip into the hole sideways, feeding the cable through the notch. Lay the cable around the groove. Adjust the nut on the other end so that the hill holder cable has just a hair of slack on it when the clutch pedal/fork is in the released position.