Gloyale

JUst taller springs if I am getting it correct. No actual *lift kit*

It isn't really a 4 inch lift. maybe total with bigger tires, but really more like 2.5 inches

In a real pinch I've removed the caliper bracket and used a drill press to drill a hole through to the back side of the slider pin hole. then you can whack the slider pin out with a punch through said hole. If you do this, use lots of cutting oil on the drill bit. I did this as a TEMPORARY solution until a replacement bracket could be found. I am unsure of the longterm safety of a modified caliper backet. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK.

pretty easy actually. yes you do pull the intake, then you can unbolt the crossover pipe. O rings are easy to install. Cheap from the dealer, cheaper if you can match it up with a bulk ring but it has to be pretty thick.

only on turbo or xt cars originally equiped with a 4EAT. Rewiring a car that came with a 3spd, part time 4wd automatic would be way more complicated, as they didn't have a TCU to begin with.

Nah.....you don't need to swap harness or ECU. My original GL TCU operates the Legacy trasn fine. The big deal in the swap is removing the bell section frot the GL trans (EA bell) and swapping it onto the Legacy (EJ bell) trans. The other big hurdle is either splicing a Legacy plug into the GL car's wiring harness, or vice versa splicing the GL trans connector onto the Legacy Harness. I spliced the GL connector onto the Legacy trans. But if I had it to do again, I would splice the new style, square, legacy connector onto the cars original harness, to make future legacy trannies *plug n' play* The wiring is all the same as far as # of sensors, solenoids, and wires, just different colors and connectors.

It is Subaru 4 cyl Firing Order.

Just take the bearing and the crank back to him and have him match the two . I wouldn't htink the thrust faces would need changed, but......... yeah have em matched and go with it.

That is the lockout to prevent shifting into gear without a foot on the brake. And also to not let the key come out until the the shifter is in park. HOWEVER.........I didn't think Loyales had that feature. Are you sure we aren't talking about a LEGACY here?

Correct

Dealer installed (matsushhitaa/panasonic) uses 11o mm waterpump Factory installed (hitachi) uses 105 mm waterpump

Okay, new idea. So I have been looking over this again and again. Power for the Ignition relay, and one of the ECU pins comes straight from fuse 12. Now, the wire splits, and the side that goes to the Ignition relay has a diode in it to prevent voltage *backflow* to the ECU. It is possible this diode is not conducting anymore. It is taped to the wiring harness, up under the dash, in the same area as the ignition, fuel, and headlamp relays. If you have Section 6 of an SPFI FSM, it shows as connector F109 on the connector location chart. I'd pull that sucker and see if you get voltage through it. Test it's *oneway* function using the diode check on you're multimeter.

Has anyone suggested looking at the base of the coolant crossover pipe? More and more I have seen these leaking, on both 2.2 and 2.5 engines. The orings go bad and steam seeps past. Since it then lands on a hot engine block, it evaporates quickly, and you never see any leakage. like this

Doing a King spring lift without using OUtback or forrester strut is almost pointless, as you still won't be able to fit a tire much larger than stock on it. The spring perch on the Legacy shocks are too close to the tire. Using a Forrester or Outback strut will give you 1.5-2.5 inches of lift, and accomodate larger tires (up to 215/75/15, fender trim required) without spending extra money on new springs. I've gotten full sets of Forrester strut assemblies for $150 from a J-yard.

Try removing the lower left(passenger) side idler, the smooth one. Now you have to hold the tensioner pulley taught while you install the drivers side belt. I ussually set it one tooth left of the mark, so that when you tension the belt by installing the lower pulley, , it will pull it back around clockwise. Don't forget, the tensioner is going to take up some slack, so push on that thing and get it to where it is taking up all the slack before you make you're final checks.

Have the fuel pressure tested. Sputtering under load is a sign of not engough fuel. I'd replace the fuel filter just on principal. It is super easy, just need a phillips screwdriver. it is the black canister right next to the drivers side strut tower.

I ussually set them with as much negative camber as possible. Makes for the best handling. It is such a small adjustment that you can't end up way out of whack, not with camber. If you had messed with the toe I would say get an alignment, but with the camber there isn't a real world *need* to have it done with frickin lasers. Wears the inside edge harder than the outside which again makes for better handling becasue it leaves the outside edge tread less affected. Tread at the outside edge helps more in a corner. Unless it has SUPER expensive tires, I wouldn't bother. Set it, stand in front of the car and look at the wheels. Are they Straight up and down, or slightly tipped in at the top? Even with eachother? If so you're good to go.

One pad sticking and rudraggin means that either the caliper piston is stuck(which it sounds like you checked) Or the sliders are sticking. Disconnect the lower caliper bolt, swing the caliper off the rotor, then slide it back off the top bolt. Slide the sleeve out of the lower caliper bolt hole, and grease it up. Grease up the the top slider and put it all back toghether. The caliper must be able to "free float" on those sliders, or else one pad or the other will end up doing all the work.

In this picture, the mark for the crank can actually be seen. It is on the little tab at hte back of the pulley, against the block. IN this photo it isn't quite all the way up, but almost. Do you see it? it is the small "line" stamped into that tab. It is also excatly opposite the keyway on the crank that locates the pulleys. Use that mark, and the lines on the cam pulleys, all straight up. NOT THE ARROWS FOR THE CRANK OR CAM.

Hogwash. I can verify at least up to the 2005 models, hitting the recovery hooks doesn't set of fthe airbags. If it did, people would have them going off in there face everytime they pulled all the way up to a high curb in a nose in parkinglot.

If you have a running EA81T I would hang on to it, and keep it stored in good condition. Someone will pay money for it someday. Every day that goes by, that thing gets more valuable. Someone will want it for a Turbo brat or coupe someday. I'd just stick with the SPFI EA82 or at least put a regular EA81, no turbo in it.

If you read there disclaimers, everything except for the longblock...ie...Block, heads, crank and pistons..........everything else is *complimentary* and not warrantied. YOU are expected to deal with any mounting, wiring, intake fitment, seals, gaskets, hoses, sensors, and yes, motor mounts. Nothing but the longblock is warrantied. They WANT you to have to swap over all of you're original accesories, including motor mounts. It is crappy though, I would at least talk to them, they may offer some help or compensation.

4EATs don't have a governor, and I am not sure he said anything was wrong with it, he just didn't know some GLs and GL-10s got hte 4EAT. It is a fine trans, but speced at 3.7 whchi delivers slow acceleration, and alot of hunting between 3 and 4th at highway speeds uphill. I replaced the 4EAT in my GL turbo with a Legacy 4EAT, so now the car is 3.9 These early ones also have a weaker transfer clutch set-up, and a more primitive TCU. If for some reason you get this car, I'd look into upgradeing to a later Legacy or Impreza trans (outback sport 4.44 )

Jeez rainin a little hard on his parade. 2 inches is way easier because you don't need to add crossmember blocks, just strut top extensions. OneEye wheels the piss out of a 2 inch lifted wagon. An EA82 is only a few hundred pounds heavier than a EA81, and both are way lighter than almost any other 4 wheelin rig. Seriously cody, I'd check out SJRs 2inch kit. It is high quality, tested, and pretty affordable if I remember correctly.

Could be the EGR solenoid connector on an engine without EGR? I have that issue on one of my MPFI EA engines. Used a harness from an EGR car with a non EGR engine and computer. Do you know of any reason this car would have a mismatched harness? otherwise keep looking up under the intake, that is where the solenoids all are.