Gloyale

I hate to say it, but 2.2s can blow headgaskets as well. Happening more and more all the time. good news is that 2.2 HGs are super easy to do in the car.

You've got a computer there doing nothing, you know htat right? I believe you can just remove it, and the above metioned solenoids. you're disty has 2 vac advances, the one the solenoid goes to is the sub advance. you can just leave it off, and the main advance will operate off vacuum.

Does anyone have any experience with this? I recently neutered my Turbo wagon. Installed high comp(9.5) pistons, mounted the MPFI heads with oil and water ports blocked off, and bolted on a Spider intake and spliced in jumpers for the TPS, CTS, and idle solenoid. Along with some other creative PCV routing using and early XT snorkus. Anyway...... It runs like ABSOLUTE GARBAGE!:-\ Symtoms: Lumpy idle, but fairly steady. acts like it is misfiring, but will rev. smooths WAAAY out above 3500 for the most part. But when you drive it, there is no Umphhh. Sputters and struggles to build RPM, gains some power and smooths out in 1st after 3500 rpm again, but will not push second. New parts: Freshly rebuilt longblock, new Fuel injectors, Fuel filter, PCV, plug wires, cap, rotor, almost new plugs from old motor Swapped w/known good parts, no change: identical ECU, Disty, MAF. It has brand new rings, bearings, and completely uncracked (expert welded) heads. I have sprayed all around the base of intake and all hoses with starter fluid and no vacuum leaks. No codes. So my question now is, would the turbo cams really be this bad in an NA motor? Or is it the fact that I am using a turbo ECU on a non turbo motor?

Give me a bit. I just ordered one of those. I can get the # of the box. You will need a press to get that off. Be very careful with the 5th gear assembly. Don't lose the little slider for the collars, they are a PITA to find when you drop them. I know from experience.

there are 2 temp sensors, one is a single wire, for the gauge only. There is a 2 wire one for the ECS Although, if you have a Weber on there, you might as well just yank that Computer out of there. It only was there to controll the *feedback* operation of the Hitachi. You don't need it.

Not quite so cuty a dry. all EA82 are non interference. So are all EJ18, and all the early EJ22, non-interference However ALL DOHC motor(2.5) are interference.

ZERO aftermarket support for transmission upgrades Hell, just finding stock parts for service would be a challenge. Subaru drivetrain will leave the most doors open. If you are custom fabricating a frame, you could put any body you want on it.

I believe it is the Automatics that are 4.44 IIRC you're manual trans outback with 2.2 should be a 4.11 final drive. Look for a VLSD from a 2003+ manual trans outback.

Coolant temp sensor

Moszt common source of mystery grinding I have run into is timing belt pulleys. they often start making noise before failing.

Loosen the brake band adjuster by just a hair. The adjustment is actually easier to get at than it looks. 17mm to loosen the locknut, and a 10mm open end to turn the adjuster. I suggest adjustiong 1/4 turn 1st. Then another 1/4 turn if that isn't enough. If you don't notice a change from that, it probably isn't the problem, and more adjustmnet won't help. If that is the case, it is likely a failing one way clutch, so a set of planetaries is trying to spin in reverse while the sun gear is driven forward. Makes for an odd driving transmission.

Prestolite is what you get from Subaru as *OEM* Even though the actual original wires were Yazaki

yes, as long as it is the matching type, will be the same pulley. I think the change happended in 98?

Spoken like a true 18 yo

Also, most spark plug sockets have a 3/4"(?) shoulder on their outside. You can use a 3/4 deep socket doubled onto the Spark plug socket. works out better than an extension.

If the engine runs, why would you need to tow it?

I'll bet the bushing in the arm that rubs is shifted to one side of the pivot. This lets the arm ride a little closer to the wheel

If you have added any regular power steering fluid, that may be contributing to the leaks. Drain and refill with regular dex/merc ATF Always use ATF in your Subarus power steering pump.

I had already gotten into the habit with EA82 motors. You don't have to leave them off til after the belt. You just need to leave them off until you bolt the inner belt covers, and the pulleys back on. You can then install the valve covers, and just use a 17mm on the pulley bolts to turn the pulleys for belt installation. SOHC 1.8 and 2.2s are actually the only motors which I use a proper cam holder on, as they don't have anywhere on the cam to grab with a wrench.

Phase 2 motors are single overhead cam. The one you need for the DOHC 2.5 is the one that has the large hex shped openings in it. The other bridge type tool I believe is for newer variable timing heads? IDK, either way, it isn't nessecary. You get WAY better torque on them by holding hte cam directly with a 1" wrench. Just leave the valvecovers off until last thing before installing motor in the car.

I pressume that it is mostly just a slight variation in the molding of the cam pulleys. Because the lines on the belt hit the lines hashmarks dead on, but the hashmarks on the pulleys don't quite meet. like a 1/4 tooth off. But the painted marks do match exactly, I think proabably painted on during assembly after the original belt install. It has happened to me even with Subaru belts.

If they are DOHC they are all Phase I

While it IS possible, it just won't really happen. not just from taking off the belt. The thing that makes the cam want to spring around is the tension of the springs. They want to spring closed, which means drawn back up into the head and away from eachother. What you don't want to do, is rotate one of the Cams around while the other one on the same head is holding a valve open. Which won't really happen because the cams want to spring around to their valve closed state. It's simple. Line up the timing marks before removing the old belt. In my experience, only the drivers side cams will want to spring around. So you can hold them steady as you release the tensioner then let them gently spin back slightly counterclockwise. Nothing inside the head will hit. When you install the new belt: I ussually wrap the belt over the crank, the passenger side pulleys (which line up easily) and under the tensioner. Then carefully with a 17mm wrench rotate the drivers intake cam around to the mark, set the belt, and hold it with one hand. Then with the 17mm again rotate the exhaust cam around to it's mark, then wrap the rest of the belt over the water pump and toothed idler. Push upward on the belt and install the lower passenger side idler. once all routed, push the tensioner pulley with your hand to take up the slack int he belt, then check all you're pulles for alignment again. **** A note about DOHC 2.5 CAM pulleys: I have seen a few DOHC motors were the hashmarks ( l l ) on the drivers side Cam pulleys don't quite line up right when using the marks on the belt. But ther is ussually also orange or white paint marks, as if factory marks, that DO line up precisely. In those cases I assume the paint is the correct mark,as the hashes are as close as they can be, and the engines have all run great. It did bother me quite abit the first time I tried for an hour and could never get he damn lines to be just right no matter how I set it.

Pinch and un-pinch that casting a few times and eventually it can get brittle and snap. I had that happen once, and had to then replace the whole knuckle. After I saw that happen, to my own car(so I know it wasn't the result of abuse), I vowed never to remove a balljoint from a knuckle unless I HAD to, either for replacement or for pressing a bearing. Not just for axles. Besides, it is WAY easier than trying to wrestle that rusty, pinched, joint out of the knuckle. When you unbolt the strut mount, it all just pivots out and back toghether effortlessly. Besides, the Camber adjustment on this cars is not that big of an issue. The Toe is unchanged. As long as you set the bolts back to even CLOSE to their original marks, all will be fine. I ussually just set both sides to the most negative camber possible, best for handling.

Remove the airbox Remove the battery remove the washer tank. return those Belden wires if you bought them already. Buy OEM(prestolite) or NGK I have seen those specific Belden wires cause problems in EJ engines.