Gloyale

Fabbing one crossmember out of angle iron is WAAAAY easier than redrilling holes in a flywheel. IIRC, an EA82 crossmember will work for the EJ 5spd, and only needs to have the mount holes drilled out slightly to fit on an EA81 car plus then you will have easy clutch options. Only snag I can see is the need for 25 spline axle. Or you could swap the 23 spline stubs into the EJ trans.

Tested for fuel pressure? have you checked for power on the injector wires? Have you probed them while cranking to see if the signal is pulsing? And have you placed a screwdriver on them and put it to you're ear while cranking to see if the injector actually clicks from the signal?

If the clutch is still operating fine, I'll bet it isn't the master or slave. My guess is that the spring that is supposed to be up on the pedal mechanism has gone AWOL. It happens alot, but on the cable clutches not so noticable. look up at the top of the pedal, there should be a clothespin style spring up there, if not, look around on the floor for it.

for the price of the adapter plate and the mix-n-match clutch set, flywheel etc.... you could just buy a used FWD Impreza or Legacy 5spd.

Yeah, but that was a lame package really, all in all. MUCH bigger than the original brat, but with LESS cargo room in the bed. The appeal of the Brat is big capability in the small package. The Baja manages to seem even more bloated than the outback it is based on. They tried to market it to 40+ professionals, who in reality, like the regular wagon outback better. A true *brat* to me would have to be a 2 door, or perhaps a *jumpdoor* 4 door like an FJ cruiser. Also it would need to be slightly taller and have better approach angles (not the plastic chin bubble and long tail) I'd like to see an EJ22 in it with AWD D/R. 4.44 final drive, (or at least 4.11) And lastly, it should be somewhat devoid of bells and whistles, so it can be affordable and marketed to 20-35 year olds.

If it is an automatic, you could be hearing one of the duty solenoids. They hum pretty loud on some cars.

give them a year or 2. they WILL leak, badly. Only time I ever have to rebuild PS pumps for Legacies/Imps/Forresters is when they have been filled with the clear stuff. Try this experiment. poor out a small pool of ATF onto a paper plate. Then poor another puddle of the clear PS fluid into the first pool. Watch how the PS fluid displaces and *floats* on top of the ATF. They really don't mix well. And I mean really, why not use the fluid they spec? It would be like "well, they say to use oil in the engine, but I am going to go ahead and use gear lube, cause it will work" C'mon people, use the correct fluid, OK?

A wire wheel on a drill is you're friend for removing the old cork gasket. I will bet that most of that oil is leaking from the front main and the oil pump though. Those seals leak way more than oil pans, when a soob is leaking alot, it is ussually those front seals, more so than the pans.

Yeah, either fluid will *work*, but using regular PS fluid will cause massive leaks in the system. Conventional PS fluid is actually more like Brake fluid or Jack oil than ATF. It is very drying to seals and conventional rubber(ever get brake fluid on your hands? It makes em feel all scratchy and dry, even though they are covered in fluid.....weird) Anyhow, I would HIGHLY RECOMEND NOT using regular clear PS fluid. Use the fluid that is specified.......Best quality Dex/Merc ATF you can afford.

Have you tried running a 12v wire to the starter solenoid (small tab) directly powering it? It could be a weak contact of the ignition. Is that the problem that the starter won't crank over the motor? If the motor is turnong over but not firing, then I would begine to look at fuses. Test for power to the anti-diesel solenoid on the carb with engine being cranked. If there is no power to the anti diesel solenoid, then I would suspect the *rev sensor* or *FPCU*. It is a small black box, mounted over the hood latch (that is here in USA, not sure on right hand drive) Won't send power out to Fuel pump or to the anti-diesel solenoid unless it get's a signal fromt he tach.

did you make sure to align the holes bearings with the pins in the case? The main shaft front bearing, and also the pinion shaft *front* bearing both have holes in them for a dowel pin that is set into the case. BTW, I LOVE the trick with the hose clamp to keep the rod from *falling* too far.

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So........ I may have solved it. Problem seems to be the injectors. As I said, they where brand new early eighties Nissan Maxima injectors. Supposed to have the same or slighlty higher flow rate. Well they don't work with the stock ECU. I swapped back in a set of used Subaru EA82 turbo injectors(way easier with the spider) and the car runs fairly normal. Still using the turbo ECU and Cams! It runs well enough now to finish the exhaust, put a good O2 sensor in it, and tidy up the wiring. Then I have to put back in the interior(i pulled it all after the *swamping*) At that point, if I can re-evaluate any further needed tune up, and possibly swap in a Non-turbo ECU Again, for a conclusion to the Cam issue, it seems that it runs pretty well on the turbo cams without a turbo.

Swap single port heads on and sell the fresh dual port heads. Keep you're rebuilt bottom end?

have you pulled up passenger seat and the carpet and checked the wiring harness that runs along the rocker sill? hmm....If you are gonna swap to carb, I would think the easiest would be to just grab a whole EA82 Carbed motor and drop it in. The difference between dual and single port heads is not much.

Firstly, you don't need a points disty to try what you are doing. you could use an magnetic pickup disty from a carbed EA82, without swapping any drive gears. Problem is, FI computer won't inject fuel if it doesn't see a signal from the CAS style disty. Wont' work. What is the issue you are having? It may be easier to help you with fixing the problem, more than figuring out *workarounds* and *swaps*

If you aren't trying to eliminate a turbo, why would you want to switch it to carbed? To make less power and use more gas? IDK, I suppose if you put a bad-rump roast carb and Cams in it you might benifit, but it would be alot of work for not much gain. But yes, you would need a low pressure pump for the carb.

Are ytou still using you're original intake? Or did you swap those as well? At any rate test that the injector has 12v with the key on. If that is good, then place a test light probe on the negative (red/black stripe) and clip the lead to the pos. terminal of the battery. Try to start the car, and watch for pulsing on the test light. if no pulsing, then you need to figure out why ECU isn't sending a pulse. Probably a crank angle sensor(inside the disty) issue. Are you sire the Disty is hooked up right?

There are small roll pins that you need to punch out to remove the DR shaft. Also, down under all the 4wd stuff, is a 10mm bolt that holds the reverse lockout tab onto the shifter rod. Gotta get at that little bolt(swivel) that way you can rotate the shifter rod counterclockwise to disengage the forks. Also, to split the case, you have to remove the bolts at the end of the pinion shaft. There are 4 of them going through the big bearing, just need to remove the 2 on the right half of the case to split them.

The fuel supply line needs to be connected to the straigh fuel line, forward most I believe. NOT to the line that comes right off the fuel pressure regulator. The curved line coming out of the pressure regulator is the fuel return. I'll bet you have the 2 lines swapped.

I would think it would be easier to adapt a non-spider MPFI manifold to Carb (Turbo GL or early XT) It has a lower profile, and a vertically mounted Throttle body, so remove the throttle body and put a weber carb on it will be easier than using a side draft. it is pretty much identical to the carb manifolds, except dual port, so it should have less issue with pooling of fuel than the spider intake. Now, you do know you will need to pull the turbo pistons out and put in higher comp carb/spfi pistons. Otherwise the car will run like a dog, a 50hp one.

I would have removed the stubs first then welded just the spider gear contact faces. That way you avoid heating them at all, and you can replace them if they break. You have now welded in the stubs into the diff. if you do break one, you will have to replace that whole diff unit, including having the new one welded. Sweet project. I'd love to take it for a few laps in the dirt. looks fun as hell.

get all surfaces really clean. i ussually let it set about 10 minutes. No torque wrench required for the bolts, just good and snug.

Looks like it, the rubber shifts inside the arm so that the arm ends up riding against one side of the mount, instead of centered. You can actually see some rub marks in the first picture.

92-94 automatics are 3.9, so wouldn't work.