Gloyale

You would need to use the upper shaft from the D/R, and the lower shaft of the FT4wd. Now, problem is, I believe if you count carefully the ratios on 2nd through 5th are slightly different. So I do believe you would have to chose which set you wanted to use and press them off, and onto appropriate shafts for you're swap. I am currently working on a similar project, using an EJ viscous AWD tailsection. I found I need a specific few trannys that came in early imprezas to have the same ratios. Otherwise, I would need to swap gearsets on teh shafts, as mentioned above.

double check that one of the CV joints in your axle hasn't exploded. I have seen them break, but stay *attached* and in the cup under the boot. The symtoms present basically the same. Clunking at idle in gear, and grinding when shifting into park. Hesitation to accelerate until the rear end kicks in fully and bucks the car forward? If you really did see chunks in the diff, that is what is most likely is. But if it was just a fine metalic powder, and you have a broken axle, then you're diff is fine.

hmm..... well I am again looking at the FSM diagrahm of the oiling system..... It seems you are correct. It is there really more for times when the filter get's plugged. problem is, without the ball there, there is nothing to stop a large portion of you're oil from going through that hole, unfiltered......so yeah, you will get oiling, but it will be unfiltered......less than desirable for sure. I would still try to return that pump if you have the receipts.

That ball is the bypass valve. and without the ball, you will have way LOW OIL PRESSURE, or even none. I would return that pump. it is junk.

They are very simple. I think if one could get the rubber for it, it is rebuildable. OR get one at the wrecking yard from a 90-96 Legacy. It is the same unit, however the newer ones only have one hole tapped in the casting (operates on one wheel) Older ones have two lines to two wheels, so you would need to tap the blank casting for ht esecond line, or bypass it and just use one.

Duh, I just realized you meant the the bypass valve, not the pressure relief vavle. Crap. I am not sure it's possible to remove or replace that? Anyhow disregard the above stuff.

It needs to be there, or all your oil will *bypass* and go straight back intot he pan. Good news though. If you have your old pump, you can use the relief assembly from that. And it can be installed with the pump and belts and covers even on the motor. Looking at the pump from underneath, on the opposite side fromt he filter, there is a 14mm or maybe 17mm? bolt head at an angle to the ground. that is the relief mechanism. take out the bolt, remove the spring and the plunger, and transfer it into the new pump. It is very strange that it didn't come with that.

The old EA82 connectors don'[t like high wattage headlamps. I would bet that the inside of you're connector is cooked and carbon scored, and can't handle the higher amp load of the Silverstars.

You need to verify if you have a new style or older style 4EAT. Does yours have an external screw on filter on the side? if so, you will need the tailshaft form one of those trans, as the Speed sensor mounting and a few other things are different externally, and I would guess even more differnet inside. 98 is the split year, I would guess it has the new gen trans, but not sure. I would just take a grinder and a file to the hub you have already. EVERY 4eat tailsection I have ever removed, had those grooves worn into the drum. Hey, now that is a part that would be worth cryotreating!

Good, I'm glad at least it is running well. Hopefully the grommets you repalced will stop the leaking too.

Hmm,.......so is he saying that the timing belt has never been changed? If he has 10 years of reciepts, and there isn't one for a timing belt, then it NEEDS to be changed. They are supposed to be changed every 60k on that motor, every 100k at the bare minimum (it's the spec for cali models) So it is almost 3 times overdue for a belt. All these issues are realatively minor, although a CEL coming on and off, espescially for a throttle sensor error should be addressed right away. You could end up running lean, stalling out, or having no power, etc...... Or it could be a corroded connector too. HAve the codes read, and the TPS tested and adjusted if that is indeed the code.

A blown fuse will cause the dim headlight as well. but the relay IS a very good place to check. My money is still on the dimmer switch.

Flywheel is connected to the back of the crank. The Flywheel has the timing marks on it. And no matter what the setup, the Crank would turn *no matter what* as well. Crank drives the belt and cams. Not the other way around. If you have a motor that the CRANK won't turn, it is seized.

No, I meant the seal that is actually under the pulley on the front of the pump. It is a skirt seal, like a Camshaft of Main seal, but smaller. But all in all, there are three oil cantainment seals related to the oil pump. Mickey mouse, Large O-ring around the base, and the shaft seal presssed into the front of the pump, under the pulley. I guess THAT gasket company considered that seal part of the pump, even though it is easily replacable. Good news is, if you don't have you're t-belt covers on yet, you can install that seal on the pump without unbolting it from the engine, if you have already put it back in.

So, It sounds like cryo treating the block is not possible, since subaru sleeves cannot be removed.

nah........ they wouldn't even be able to do that anymore I don't think. Most of the techs don;t even know how to use the 20 year old select monitor that would be required. Wait, this is OBD II, well anyhow that isn't the solution. also....proabbly dumb question, but did you hook up the large tube under the snorkus that goes to the IAC? And all the other PCV hoses? Connector for the MAF sensor? And lastly the little filter dealy in the vac line that leads to the MAP sensors? Maybe swap it?

he has an SPFI Loyale. Totally different ECU, and set of codes. Code 32 on your Carbed car is for One of hte duty solenoids that controlled the slow and main air bleeds for mixture adjustment. Since the solenoid isn't there, the ECU eventually see's it as *failed* and throws the code. Just take out your stupid computer, it isn't doing shiiite

+1 on that. Dimmer switch is ussually the culprit if they ALL go out.

Sounds like the ones that go between the Camshaft case and the Head. Funny, not part of the oil pump:rolleyes: And they didn't include the shaft seal for the Snout of the pump?

34 is EGR solenoid. no big deal, not your starting issue. 14 is for the injector. Test between the 2 terminals of the injector, should be between 0.5 and 2 Ohms. Good, Ok now test between each terminal and body ground. No continuity? good, ok If that all tests good, you could disconnect the ECU harness connectors and repeat the first test on pins 43 and 48 (RW and RB) Basically the same test but through the whole length of wire to determine if the wiring harness is intact. Again, between .5 and 2 ohms. Then again, some *ghost* codes come up with the key on, eng. off. Like 12 and 13, never seen 14 but..... if you don't have it while the car is running it was probably a ghost code. You could also try putting a screwdriver up to your ear and against the injector and crank the engine. Listen for the injector to click. no click, no injection. If that is the case hook a test light to the pos side of the battery and probe the RB (-) wire while cranking the engine. If the light doesn't pulse a bit, then no signal is coming from the ECU. Disy would be the next place to look.

Hey ya'll..... I recently picked up an old (not TOOO old) osciliscope for examining the "crossover" action of oxygen sensor voltage. Also thought I could use it to look at the Duty C output for transmissions, and possibly Cam and Crank sensors. Problem is, I am not really sure how to use it? Could someone tutor me? Or have a link to a good sight to describe using an Osci to look at 12v DC PWMs? Thanks to anyone in advance

Oil in my driveway stays in my driveway or on the ground around it. There isn't much wildlife or anyone growing food in my driveway. True, some amount may end up washing into the road, but not really, it ussually soaks into the pours of the concrete, keeping it isolasted to a certain extent. Oil in the gutter with a car parked at the curb get's washed directly into the city storm water system, which feeds into the river, affecting fish and down stream farmers and communities more directly.

What type of plugs and wires? Wrong parts on EJ ignition will cause problems. But start by checking that the spark plug wires are as far as possible from the injector wires. Get some of that flexible wiring cover and put it over the section of the wire that runs close. Make sure there are no nicks or cuts in the injector wiring insulaztion. BTW......This should be in the New Generation Forum and may get moved.

You could just get another EA82 turbo. I see them all the time from 50-150 dollars. Heck I have 3 of them, I could sell you one.

You have poor contact on one of the 3 big main engine harness connectors. Fans coming on with key off (and possibly CEL lit even with key off) is characteristic symptom of poor contacts at those plugs. (one of the bigger grey ones if IIRC) BTW this should be in the *new generation* forum, and might get moved there