Gloyale

Strut tops(tophat) on a Forrester are taller.

You are looking at the Cam end seals. GD's pic is of the Cam case to Head O-ring. It goes around the oil feed passage between the head, and the Cam case (the weird extra stack on the head) So anyway, please......listen to us. We know what we are talking about. You may get lucky, and have you're TOD go away...but if not, the next thing to do is to get a valve cover set, a tube of grey RTV or better sealant,...... and 2 of the reinforced O-rings Plan for the job to take 3 or four hours, as you are new to these motor. It is also a good idea to have a pan of clean oil to prime the lifters in. And a 10mm gearwrench is a must.

also the hole on the mounting ear needs to be enlarged. The mounting bolt is a little closer in to the body of the disty on the ea81 I found I also had to unbolt the little plate covering the wiring coming out the bottom. I unbolted it, reworked the wires, then hammered the plated back down flat. As for drilling the disty shaft, it's easy, IF you use a drill press.

97 GT is has a hydraulic clutch. 95 L has a cable clutch and hill holder. The Hydraulic clutch parts swap over easy, but you may not be able to use the hill holder (although it seems possible)

yeah, they get tiny specs off carbon buildup in the little holes that keep them from holding up. I've had a few others be just completely collapsed and stuck that way. Make sure you don't nick the faces when you pull them fronm the rockers (pliers required) The nasty oil that splooges out when you press the pin while they are submerged in clean oil looks pretty cool.

It's bolted through the roof. To install, we removed the headliner. Then placed the rack ontop of the car and did some centering, measuring, and eyeballing till it was in the right spot. Then we lightly wacked each mounting point down into the roof. The rack has studs on the bottom for mounting, so the studs on the rack made a divet each spot were a hole needed to be. Then drilled holes, bolted in the rack with big fender washers from underneath. Also We used a very gooey butyl acetate sealant under the *feet* of the rack, around the holes to prevent leaks. reinstall the headliner.

Actually, we dug in further, and found a few of the ring gear bolts had backed out, and shaved off a good amount of aluminum from the insdie of the case. Definately not good. However further examination of the teeth on the second gearset seem to show that there is a slight difference to the cut of the teeth.

Is the CEL on? What are the codes? Fuel cut right at 4000 sounds like either a speed sensor, or TPS being bad or giving bad readings.

SPFI swap now, then you will have identified all the tie in points for the FI harness, and installed a high pressure pump, mounted an FI airbox, etc.... Then when you are ready for the EJ, you can get you're adapter and flywheel, and you will be all set to go.

Correct, and the difference for the purpose of pressing on the gears is that the EA gears are on a smaller diameter shaft, so pressing them onto the EJ shaft won't work (unless they can be modifiied like bill suggested)

that is nice, but we don't have Dual range EJ transmissions here in the USA.

Yes I counted all teeth on all gears. they were all the same

Subaru uses lots of slight variations and different part #s that are still interchangable. I do know that those two pumps will have a different resevior design. Should work still though.

could be ball joints, or it could be a sloppy CV in the axle.

2007 Impreza

I think a helicoil may not work here, because the hole is a straight through, there is nothing for the helicoil to bottom against. My guess is that even if the insert installs correct, it will want to simply thread it's way out the back of the tab as the bolt is threaded in. I think you would be fine to simply tap out the hole to the next standard size. Probably 3/8ths. Cheaper easier, and arguably more reliable than a helicoil. Whatever you do, make sure you've got a good repair. All the torque of your engine is transmitted to the tranny through those four small bolts. One of them being loose, or not clamping right could cause some issues. Most notably alot of noise from the plate flexing and buckling. Also having a bolt pop out and rattle around loose in there would be very bad.

For the future, it would be easier to unbolt the engine mount, torque converter, and exhaust bolts. Remove the radiator. Then using a jack under the engine just lift and roll it forward in the engine bay. I would never choose to pull a 4EAT out the bottom unless it HAD to come out. 5speeds are easy, but 4EATs are too heavy for all that jazz.

If the light comes on when you first go to start the car, but then goes off once running, this is normal.

Heads are probably cracked and will need welded to repair properly. I hate to say it man, but............

No, other than some nicks from chunks of second gear floating around.

We did infact have to grind off the outer corner of the ringgear(crownwheel) Yes all the bearings were properly in place and held with pins.

So.......... something was not compatible. tranny ran fine for about 500 miles and a few wheelin trips, then BANG! Second gear completely stripped out. no teeth at all left on the upper shaft. So......now to figure out what went wrong. I am unsure if it is an inherant problem with the conversion, or something done wrong during assembly. Or possibly just 2 worn gearsets mated won't be happy, and next time I'll have to start with new gearsets to break in properly with eachother. IDK I still hold hope that this conversion is possible, but there is something goin on with the way the two different 2nd gearsets mate. Anyone else trying this conversion be forewarned. I would love to see it done. I just thought sharing this was prudent. experiment at you're own risk.

HAve you actually mounted this kit to an SPFI swapped EA81 engine? Remember, in the SPFI swap, the IAC is flipped over, and it's solenoid sticks out to the drives side, and the air tube comes up from below. It looks to me like the resevior will be in the way of where the IAC needs to be on an SPFI swap. Very nice job though, just exploring all the possibilities

Did you pull the timing belt covers to look at the belt? If you didn't pull the covers, you can't inspect the belt. At 90k miles, it's likely the timing belt HASN'T been changed yet, as it is not due for another 10k miles. I find 90% of the oil leaks on these engines are from the front seals (Crank, Cams, Oil Pump O-ring) Don't worry about the rear separator or the oil pan until you have taken care of the leaks up front. Or pull the motor now, and replace all the seals, including valve covers.

The kit should come with the correct size drill bit