Gloyale

CarQuest carries all sizes of Evap hose, heater hose, and trans hose. they are my go to hose source

Can you feel the compressor run and the engine load up when it does? If so, Check the cable that leads to the blend door, it may have popped off and be stuck in the heat position.

With 4EAT equipped cars, I always remove the intake, and install it on the engine after the engine is in the car, mated to trans and Torque Converter. It is SOOOOOOO much easier that way. Well worth a couple $5 intake gaskets.

He's got a Part Time Dual Range in it now.

I just drill a hole through them and put a bolt in there through the rubber and the 2 plates. actually stiffens the shifter feel.

Check the Coolant temp sensor for output in the proper range. IIRC should be 2-3K ohms when cold(60-80 degrees F) and less than 500 Ohms when fully warmed up. If it is more than 500 Ohms when hot, the ECU will be running it too rich and too advanced.

You are correct.

Check the routing of the new plug wires to make sure they aren't running too close to the injector wires. It helps to put some of the flexi-conduit (like for stereo wiring) around the section of the plug wires that run near the valve covers and injectors.

Diffs are the same......BUT you must swap pinion gears as well as the rings. Pinion gears are integral to the lower shaft of the transmission. Lower shafts of the EA81 4spd, EA82 5spd, and the AWD EJ boxes are all completely different. So no, you cannot simply swap ratios. I did build a 4.11 ratio D/R AWD using EA82 D/R front case and upper shaft, and EJ lower shaft, shift forks, and rear case(AWD section). But it blew out second gear pretty dramatically, there seems to be a difference int he cut of the teeth on EJ 1st and 2nd gears.

I used an NA MPFI intake off a 88 XT, so I had no water line to plug, but it could easily just be capped off. I used an MPFI intake boot too, but you could use an SPFI one with the rubber sleeve that joined the aluminum pipe to the Throttle body left on the Throttle body as a spacer (SPFI throttle body is larger Diameter, so you need the spacer to make the boot fit) MAF works fine, but please, put High comp pistons in it or you will have NO power.

Won't work. The Electronics are totally differeent. 99 Forrester Trans uses 3 internal speed sensors, Hooking it up to the 90 TCU would be difficult, if not impossible. As well as the difference in ratios. better to find a 4.11 ratio 4EAT from 90,91 Legacy,93+ Impreza, or 95-97 outback. IIRC those will all be the same ratio and plug right in to existing wirng

Just swap the Bellhousing/Diffholer front section of the tranny with an EJ one. Install you're existing diff in the EJ housing. Good time to install new ends seals and even bearing if needed. Use EJ Torque converter and Flexplate, or redrill you're flexplate to fit on the EJ motor if you want to keep you're TC. Alternately, you could get a whole EJ tranny, and just splice the harness connectors off you're tranny, the wirng is all 100% the same up to 97ish. However, you will need the matching 3.9,4.11,or 4.44:grin: rear diff to match whatever trans you get. Tach signal will be fine, as long as you hook up the EJ harness to the tach on the dash, the trans will get the signal too cause the split in the wiring is in the dash. The only thing that will be *off* somewhat is the TPS signal, which is in a different Ohm range on EJs. However, since the TCU monitors the voltage on the circuit(0-5v), not the resitance directly, I have a hunch that it will work out all the same.

I have this setup in my 89 GL turbo wagon. All you need really is a set of N/A pistons to put in the block, an N/A y-pipe with an O2 bung, and to work out an intake from MAF to the throttle body. Might be able to adapt the SPFI intake tube or find a setup on an NA 4 cyl XT. The turbo ECU seems to be able to run the engine just fine, if perhaps not ideal. Oh yeah, and a good set of heads. You could look into having you'res welded. Don't worry about the cracks between the vavles, just get the ones in the exhaust port.

Possible: Crank pulley keyway totally hogged out, and crank shaft bolt stripped out and stuck in the hole, and heat siezed against the pulley. So when you turn the bolt, you are just spinning the pulley and bolt, not the actual crank gear. Not saying that is the case, just examining whats possible.

You are correct about cutting power locks the Transfer. But that is with an egnien running, driving the ATF pump, to generate pressure to hold clutches toghether. Now,with or without battery, if there isn't a running motor to power the hydraulic pump, there is no clutch engagement. BUT.........the clutches are still interlocked, riding against eachother. There is no pressure so they slip freely, but there is also no fluid being fed to lubricate them. So the friction material on the clutch plates takes quite the beating. It works, in that nothing *locks* and the car won't try to buck off the dolly. At least not initially. It is concievable that on a really long tow the heat could build up, and either fry the cluthces out(bad for wallet), or weld them toghether (bad for safety when it bucks off the dolly)

I'd like to know if it happens ALL the time? Or just when you Reverse, brake to stop, then 1st forward? My suspiscion and the far more common occurance is the later. The backwards momentum stoping acts to roll the checkball to the back of the chamber as if on a hill. Something to consider, if you simply double clutch in that situation when you shift to first, it won't happen. You're hillholder should NEVER operate from a standstill on level ground or a downhill. However, If you're hillholder is working on level ground, even from a standstill, you have one of 2 issues. Really it's the same issue, but depends on why. 1. The valve body is at the wrong angle and needs a shim under the rear bolt to *level* it out, or even point it slightly *nose down*. Is it possible the bracket and valve where bent or repositioned during a clutch job or some other work? Sometimes they where just set up too close to the limit from factory. Subaru makes a specific shim but a washer works fine. 2. The rear of the vehichle is saggin, effectively acting as if on an uphill. I see this particularly on the early outbacks as their springs age. If you're Forrester is riding low, then this my be the culprit. Either condition can be solved by the washer under rear bolt if you don't want to replace springs. Proper cable tension is also essential to making the action happen at the right point for the clutch engagement. Too tight, the brakes won't release unitil too late, and you will get stalls. Too loose on the cable, and brakes will release before the clutch engages, and you will get rolling back.

91 Legacy? There is no CAP and ROTOR. There is a coilpack. The connectors for reading the codes are also there, probably just tucked up behind the wiring for the computer. I know it requires actually trying hard, but you can get them, promise. I don't think spark is the problem, I think it is fuel, and a failed or clogged injector.

This means that the C solenoid is working, but the trnasfer plates themselves are getting stuck. Probably need to grind out the grooves that wear into the clutch hub. Since the solenoid works, really the whole affair could be fixed for the cost of labor to grind the hub. Replacing the solenoid is only nessecary if installing the FWD fuse doesn't do anything (failed solenoid)

You are just burned over having to spend money. None of this is relavant to how Subaru Engineers there cars. EVERY transmission has parts bolted toghether. I suspect one of your rear axles, also a rare failure, but more likely than 3 bad VC in less than 100k

Unbolt that ground bolt, clean it, and reconnect. Beyond that, is it possible that there is a short in the engine harness? have you tried a different engine harness?

A slight opening up of the hole that the steering shfat goes through and it is done. Now Using an EJ rack would be alot harder, but still doable. Again, one hole cut through the crossmember and it's done. Not really a *MAJOR* reworking required. Have you tried finding an EA81 PS rack? there aren't that many out there. EA82 racks, on the other hand are like feathers at a chicken farm.

outback shaft may be too long. We used an outback shaft for a 3 inch lift on a 90 Legacy, so it would be way long for the 1 inch lift on the EA82. I would try one from a stock, non-outback Legacy. 90-99. it is about7/8ths inch longer than the EA82, so it should be about perfect for a 1 inch spacer

Possibly PCV or coolant temp sensor.

I usually find hard starts after running for a while are often Coolant Temp Sensor failures. If the CTS has high resistance, ECU thinks it's a cold engine. Rich mixture fed into a warm engine = no start/hard start. Test the resistance range of the sensor cold and hot. If you can, hook test leads to it, and then tap on it to make sure the resistance doesn't change or drop to zero or infinite.

Mine lasted about 3 or 4 hours of working. then the speed control on the motor failed. Never again. Lincoln from now on.