Gloyale

It doesn't need to start. You can test them out of the car. just measure resitance across the two connections. heat it with the flame of a lighter to warm it up.

It's already been established. TCU monitors TPS voltages. What I have wondered is, woudl the TCU be capable of reading a TPS signal without having an ECU hooked up tho the TPS to actaully send the signal voltage out.

If you are getting a code, it's the VSS. If it was merely the display, then the computer would still get the signal and youd get no code.

Stretched the OEM clips to fit. Watch out though, they are brittle, I broke one trying this. would like to find a better solution

Bull. Unless you are the incredible hulk, you WILL NOT strip the crank threads or the bolt. I have used breakers wioth a 3 foot pipe for a cheater and leaned as much force as I could intop them and they DON'T strip. The crank is some pretty hard steel. The manufacturer spec is 180 foot pounds, which is Torqueing the crap out of it. And with the EJ tendancy to wobble on the keyway, the tighter you can possibly get that pulley the better.

The ododmeter and the reed switch are driven by a tiny cable that is driven like a PTO off the side of the speedo. they haqve four little tabs that like to break off allowing them to free spin. I have had some luck removing and repairing them, can't remeber how I did it though! For the trip computer losing memory, look up in the dash, above the fuse box, for a set of blue connectors with IIRC green/red wire. Make sure these are hooked toghether. Those are the *shipping* connectors, that should be plugged in on arrival of the car at the dealership. Just a hunch.

if you are willing to pul the heads, remove and swap the pistons out to some N/A pistons you'll have a pretty good motor.

Passenger side of intake, bolted to the area where the thermostat housing is. 2 wires with a green connector test for resistance to be around 2-3k ohms when cold, and around 300-500 ohms when warmed up, with a smooth transition between.

That may be for the ground wire on the Engine harness. If the engine harness ground is on one of the intake bolts instead of htat one there is the problem. But it is not the battery ground though.

IDK, I have had issues when using the quill kits too. Since the bearing is bigger to fit over the larger quill, the old style clips are a very tight fit. I have never seen that type of clip either.

Automatic: pull the access cover on the bellhousing. Wedge a large screwdriver into the hole in the torque converter and hold it firmly. Then torque the crap out of the Crank bolt. Manual: Put it in 4th or 5th gear, set the E-brake or have an assistant hold the brakes. Then torque the crap out of the Crank bolt. I would just crank it around by hand a few times to see if it all feels smooth. then fire it up.

That wiring is all part of the Body of the Car and the TCU. Wether the dash has a display for the gear selector or not, there still is the switch unit on the trans to send out signal to the ECU for what gear you're to the TCU. So, what I am saying, is that the Transmissions are the same, adn plug in the same, and any 90-98 EJ TCU will control any other 90-98 EJ trans with no problems, no wiring to mess with or convert. THE ONLY THING TO CHECK is gear ratios. Get a trans with the same ratio and you are good to go. Swap them all day with no wiring.

Relax. You aren't gonna burn it up, and if you do there are Thousands more ECUs. Starter switch could either be wired to the starter Solenoid signal wire. Or, you could tap into the *start* position wire in the ignition switch. either way, it should only get power when the starter is engaged. Read memory connector stays ungrounded unless you are trying to read codes. So it could be ignored ofr now. Nuetral switch can be ignored for now, or you can wire it to a clutch switch. Scavange one off an EA82 with cruise. I did nothing for it on my SPFI swap, and don't get any CEL or problems. Different ECU though Finally *back up* power, I am thinking that is constant power from batt. But it is better to tap into a fused circuit rather than run a line straight to the battery. I believe there is a fuse labeled ECU in the fuseox that I tapped for my swap.

Split the Trans case open and fit the 23 spline stubs from a standard L series trans into the diff carrier. Then you can use regualr EA81 axles for ever.

No swaybar on EA82 = Pure joy There is an OLD thread somewhere in which I condemned the removal of swaybars. I officially renounce that psosition and advocate for the complete removal of all swaybars on anything close wheelin rig. It actually makes the lifted rig run smother on the road, since the *bounce* of one wheel no longer upsets the other one. Less overall shimmies and shakes, espescially going around a corner that has bumps in it.

Plug the IAC lines entirely and see if the idle drops. If it does, then you're IAC is stuck open. The ONLY time you need to adjust the throttle stop screw is when you are using a new engine with you're original intake, or some other combo of engine intake that was not original. The throttle stop is set to where it is to keep the throttle plate open VERY slightly, to allow idle air into engine, and to keep it from closing and wedging into the throttle bore. Each one is tuned to the particular engine it is on at the factory. When you put a throttle body on an other then original engine, you sometimes need to adjust this screw. BUT....that is only after all other conditions for idle have been met (CEL codes, no vac leaks, all sensors working...etc...)

I have swapped a newer Legacy sedan rear seat with fold down arm rest and folding trunk area access into my 84 EA81 sedan. I had to cut some of the wire frame out of the foam, and bend the sides around to make it fit. Fitting into an EA82 Sedan would probably be even easier.

If the knuckle really is loose around hte bearings, then that needs replaced. althbough I can;t Imagine how the bearings could move in that housing if pressed in properly. But there should be Zero play in the bearings.

FWD only WOULD be just as easy. Weld the center diff of the trans Remove rear half of the driveline. Leave the front half and the carrier bearing installed in the back of the trans. It will just spin freely. Remove shaft and inner cups from rear CV axle, leaving the spindle through the wheels. If you want to save more weight, you can also remove the rear diff, and the shafts and inner cups of the rear CV. Leave the outer cups installed through the hubs.

I am not understanding what you mean by *worn* Knuckle. The *Knuckle* is a solid cast piece, the wheel bearings are pressed into it. If there is any play in the axle or wheel, it IS a result of the wheel bearings. Do you mean the Hub? the part with the splines that the rotor is bolted too? Either way, a speed relative grinding/howling noise is a Wheel Bearing issue. If it is a pronounced vibration, like you can feel it through the steering wheel, then it is a CV axle that is the cause. Even if the boots aren't torn, if it is vibrating relative to speed then it is 99% likely an axle. The one other possible is the carrier bearing on the center driveline. But that is unlikely, and would be pretty pronounced right under the seat.

Read GDs SPFI swap write up for the EA81 There is a section that specifically goes over preparing the EA81 Dash for a speed sensor and CEL(ECS) ligts It is pretty basic For the ECS light, you will need a spare wire end from the round dash connector of an EA81 or EA82. The connector ends come easily out of the plastic connector by prying a small tab inside. Get you're spare wire, then insert it into the pin slot your EA81 dash connectors. GD's write up has the specific color and location of which pin it is. The other part of it is the Speedo sensor wires. The EA81 speedo sensor has a black 2 pole connector coming out of the dash. It is one of the *T* shaped 2 pole connectors that were used in EA82 dash lighting, front speaker wires, and lots of other stuff. So find yourself a spare connector from a JY EA82 and cut it out of the harness. Wire it to match a Ground wire to the black one from the speedo sensor, and the other wire is the one that you hook to the EJ harness for a speedo signal. As a tip, you can use the connector for the original Fuel Pump control to tap into a Switched 12v, a ground, Tachometer, and 12v out to Fuel pump.

It's the one in the first picture. It is worth installing a new connector on those wires as well. It is a resistance based sensor, so extra resistanc e from corrosion affects the readings.

The Single port heads (later) have roller rockers and slightly more lift. I've always thought the best combo would be to use the Dual port heads with the rockers and Cam from the later single port head.

The OEM reseal kits are great. The hardest part is pressing (or hammering) out the shaft and bearing. Also, there is a bolt that uses a rubberized washer. It is INSIDE the pump resevior, and you must use an extension to remove and install it through the resevior cap/fill hole. Many here are suggesting just replacing the o-rings on the resevior. That works sometimes, if it is just the resevior leaking. The full reseal is very easy and SOOOOOO satisfying once done.

Rattle is probably a fubared throw out bearing. Since it only happens with the clutch disengaged (pedal depressed) Hard starting is likely the CTS