Gloyale

He's right. This is one of the easier things to fix on a Sube. You can even find 7/16 studs at alot of autoparts stores so you don't even need to cut all-thread. Just use oil and run the tap in. No need to drill the hole as the stripped out hole is already perfect size for a 7/16 tap.

It just so happens I will be in Iowa somewhere around the 1st of Oct. I would love to come to a meet n' greet/Show.....whichever may happen. If nothing else I was going to try to stop and see the Solid Axle tubeframe Brat.

Is this a joke? If it really has that low miles why the hell are you driving it? And if you are gonna keep driving it.......don't whine about 50k miles. I put nearly that on my car LAST YEAR!

Yeah, I was doubtfull but 2 1/4 seems larger than it should have. I am not talking about the heat shields. I am telling you....I will bet money that you have a full on double walled pipe on there. Look closely at the end of the pipe where it meets the flange. I bet it get's a bit smaller right there huh? where the outer tube is crimped down around the neck of the inner one, and they are welded toghether. Sorry to disapoint you, but If it's the stock exhaust......I definately is not 2 1/4 pipe. It looks like it, but the pipe on the inside is only like 1 1/2 or 1 3/4. Yes you need at least the the flanges from an EJ y-pipe, if not the whole y pipe itself.

Gsary gave you the sequence, but all the joking made it hard to understand. Additionally, the process is slightly different on early 4eats than on later Legacies and such. The code #s are also different. Here it is again. First...For 4wd insert a fuse in the FWD holder.... For 2wd models ground the Blue/black stripe wire to the Black/red wire right next to it in the 17 pole connector(under hood, behind drivers side strut tower) Put shifter in drive. depress 1st hold button to *on* Turn key on. move shifter to 3rd. 1st hold button to *off* Move shifter to 2nd. depress 1st hold button to *on* Now depress gas pedal fully, then let off to half throttle slowly. At this point the POWER light should light steady for 2 seconds....then give 11 very short (.2 seconds) flashes and repeat. Now if one or more of the 11 short flashes last for a bit longer (.8 seconds) make note of it. Count which position in the 11 flashes the longer one comes. That number of it's position will be the code #. So if the 8th blink of the 11 quick flashes is longer, then you have code 8. Remeber the long 2.5 second light is the begining of the sequence repeating each time. don't count it. count after it.

You are talking about the selector rod seal. The seal is easy to replace. The arm that goes *upward* and attaches to the shift lever has to be removed from the selector rod. It is held by a role pin that just get's punched out. Then the seal can be pried out of the hole with a seal puller, and a new one pressed or drifted in there. It is a small seal....should be doable by hand or with the end of an 3/8th extension. Then pop the pin back in the arm and connect the shift rod. The seal should on;y cost about 15-20 dollars tops.....but likely you will have to wait for it to be ordered through the dealership. If you're local dealership won't help with parts that old.....drop me a line here....or call John and Phils Subaru in Corvallis, OR.....Ask for Brian.....and tell them Dan the Subie guy reffered you.

Wasn't your EA82 originally 2wd? If so it has the stupid double walled pipe for exhaust. It's not 2 1/4.....it's like 1 1/2 surrounded by 2 1/4.....but I digress. The EJ y pipe will ALMOST bolt right to the EA82 midpipe.....they line up well. I had to cut and swap flanges to make the 2 mate. should be pretty cheap at an exhaust shop as long as they don't try to take you for a ride.

Let me guess...you bought it super cheap from someone who didn't maintain it? now why in the world would it need work????? You should test that the wires are firing either with a timing light.....or pull the plug end of the wire.....insert a spare spark plug in the wire and hold it with rubber handled plier against the engine block or intake while someone cranks the engine. That should show you spark. If both wires spark....then see below. Yes they are commonly behind the wiring for the TCU. 2 10mm bolts at the top of the TCU braket can be removed, and the TCU drops down to access the wires. Untape them from the harness and stretch them out and bolt the TCU back in. If you checked that there is spark at all cylinders, then the miss is most likely an injector. Remove the wires from each injector and test resistance across the contacts of each one. Should be around 11 ohms IIRC. If any are zero or higher than the spec(over 13) then that injector is bad.

That's crap.....he's just trtying to get you to pony up more for him to do it:rolleyes: Go to another shop. It is NOT REQUIRED to pull valves to surface or pressure test the head. I never pull the valves unless there is an indicated problem with one. If he won't do it like that...go to another shop. Don't let them BS you....they CAN surface the head with the valves in place.

If you are looking for a full size truck.....buy a Ford. If you are looking for a small SUV or Car.....Definately the Subaru. I would definately go with 03 or newer unless you find a 2000-02 that has already had it's headgaskets done by a reputable shop.

1st gen Legacy CV and diff stubs are the same as EA82, and interchange with EA81. HOwever, it seems the geometry of the 2 radius arm/1 trailing arm rear end setup is not as hard on them. My buddy with the lifted Legacy has broken the spider gears out of a diff(old abused diff)....but never an axle or a stub. My thinkin as of recently was to make a lift block set that adapts from the EA82(or 81) body to the Legacy rear crossmember.

AAA = Advocate for Automotive Atkins NO CARBS!

13 motors divided by 36 months makes an average of 2 months a piece. Oh yeah......you're sure proving how reliable the EA82T is...........right. Look man.....I am probably one of the few of us here on the board that actually DO STILL LOVE the EA82......yes even the turbo.......but c'mon. I came onto this board 3 or 4 years ago, ranting against anyone who tried to tell me to just EJ it....or at least that the potential of the EA82 is limited. Guess what? They were all right. The EA82 is like sun. The bigger and hotter it is.......the faster it will burn out. Just think about it..........you could swap in 1 EJ motor....perhaps turbo it to 5 psi.......and blow the doors off what your running now. But if you wanna keep swappin motors on an average of every 60 days.......well that's your choice......some of us are crazy too. As a side note.....your heads are cracked into your exhaust port(probably what keeps taking out the turbos)......I hope you check your coolant level religiously Also it's funny you titled yourself AWD Turbo.......you're car has a single range pushbutton 4wd....not AWD

SPFI TPS has 4 pins. MPFI has a a total of 5 pins on 2 plugs......however 2 of those are ground.....in fact they join as one wire just a foot or so down the harness. So both use a total of 4 wires..... Idle switch + reference + position Ground. So the wiring is all there.....but the TPS output is in a different range:rolleyes: I had a similar dillema putting my Spider intake on my MPFI. Had to make the 5 wire TPS harness mate to the 4 pin Spider TPS which does output in the same range. Unfortunately it rotates opposite from SPFI so no swappage there.

It's not even an if.......It is a must. Doing headgaskets on a 2.5 without surfacing the heads is just setting yourself up for future work and spending when it craps again. My bill to folks when I do Headgaskets on these is ussually between 900-1400 depending on whether we include doing a waterpump, valvecover gaskets, oil pump seals....etc......but ussually around 1200. So spending $900 on just a motor then doing the install yourself isn't really saving you much.

Post the # on the bellhousing of the transmission. That will be easier to look up by code than the rear diff. 2750 at 60 MPH sounds more like a 3.9 ratio to me.

IF the idle is smooth and it hasn't stalled I wouldn't worry. The idle spec is 700 +/- 100......so you are right on the edge of normal. If it actually stalls.....or has a surging up and down to the idle then there is an issue. Otherwise I wouldn't suggest anything except maybe change the plugs, wires, and fuel filter. Don't buy the plugs from the dealer....you'll get hosed.....you can buy the same NGK or DENSO plugs from an auto parts store for a 1/4 of the price. Make sure to get NGK or DENSO. Get NGK wires for it as well.

That makes it sound worse than it is. I still have much love for the EA82.....even the turbos......but slap a bigger turbo and exhaust onto it, DOUBLE the boost, and race it a 3 am without doing anything else......... yeah.....that aint gonna last long.

I don't want to start an arguement..... But I am pretty sure the Impreza 1.8 FWD tranny is based on what had previously been the TURBO 2wd 5spd....which itself is just a 4wd 5spd without the rear output. There is just no way Fuji would recast a new housing for that same old tired 5spd from the 70's. It doesn't make sense. They used a better trans for all the 111 Horsepower 2wd turbo EA82s.......why would they go back to a wimpier tranny for an engine with more horsepower and torque? And Retool first to do so? I can't prove anyhting, as I don't have an early Impreza FSM or any old trannies......but I just have a pretty strong gut feeling on this one.

IDK, I built 2 now with fresh pistons and rings and still the best #s I every have gotten are around 130 The added boost ups the effective compression. It yeilds HP gains even on old engines.....but it is a temporary fix that is more detrimental in the long run than rebuilding the motor and keeping boost stock.

It seems to me the lower section of the Spider intake could be used without cutting. Simply make a plate to match, and then fit a plug into the Injector bosses. (or just mount some injectors in there but don't hook them up.) Then you have a place to mate you're custom intake to, and retain the coolant crossover section from the spider. This way nothing would need to be cut at all. If you cut the *normal* turbo intake......what are you going to do to keep the coolant crossover?

15 lbs of boost will kill that motor very soon. In fact.....it's already dead........it just in the throws of nerve spasms right now..........once those stop..........yeah...........that motor is toast. You can get a little more reliable power out of the EA82T. But you can EASILY get ALOT more reliable power out of an EJ22 or 25.

Looked through every year L series and XT FSMs and the spec for ALL MPFI engine injectors is between 2-3 ohms

It is the IAC......and it is Fuel injector that is cut out.....not spark. The ECU would not be capable of cutting spark to #1 and not to #2 as well since they are fired in pairs