Gloyale

If it's a 4wd trans I have one here in Corvallis that has low miles and worked great when pulled. (drove the car to the The Gorge at George just a week before pulling trans) Otherwise, any 3spd auto trans from 87-94 GL/Loyale model will work. Just not one from a Turbo car. PM me if you need the trans I have. I can deliver to Portland.

You'll want to ditch the rear swaybar for offroading.

Classic buggered Rear main seal installation. They are saying it's crank walk to cover there rump roast. Or really, they are just guessing because in many cases a rear main that keeps blowing IS form crank walk. However in Subarus, the rear main is just easy to get wrong. The rear mains on these cars are tough to get well seated. The reason is that the seal is installed as the case halves are assembled at the factory. This squeezes it and holds it. When we replace them, we are pressing them straight into a very tight hole, and they have a tendancy to shave a little of one edge. They are really just a bEAAch to get right. Additionally, a low quality aftermarket seal WILL fail if used there, even if installed properly. I ussually don't even bother replacing them, as the tiny amount of weep from the OE seal is way less than the puking of a crappy or impropely installed one. If they are already willing to pull a motor and replace it for no cost, they should be willing to pull it and reinstall an OEM Subaru Main seal. It needs to be coated on the outer edge with a thin layer of RTV to keep it sealed in there.

So it seems the Original Poster in this thread is lucky. His new 5spd should be 4.11 and his 95 auto rear end is also 4.11 so he should be good to go.

You prolly had a plastic loop model, and the plastic loop busted off leaving just the flat top. Try pulling up on the *plug*

Should be the same, although there could be minor differences like spacing of the rear strut tower bolts.

You recently installed those Rear Disc Brakes right? I can think of 1 thing that could be causing the scraping other than wheel bearings. Make sure the Brake Disc backing plate is not bent and touching the rotor as it goes round.

If you can find an Intake from a 95-98 Automatic Legacy 2.2, then you could use that intake. It will have an EGR valve Although, you would need to have the drivers side head drilled and tapped for the EGR tube.

All early models and most? Turbos had a pin in there. Later ones did not. If you like, it is easy to install a pin in it. But it isn't needed if it gets bolted tight.

You could switch to full EA82 front Knuckles. Although I believe there is some issue with the balljoint going that method. It is doable though.

He might just have the Keyless entry only, not alarm. But the keyless entry unit will do the same thing. He can simply hit *unlock* on the key fob. OR He can press and hold the reset button on the underside of the dash, left side. Or I believe he can start the car and lock and unlock the door 3 times? There should be a big yellow sticker on the radiator support in front of the battery if he has the keyless entry, and the sticker tells how to reset it.

Get the oddly bent scredriver looking tool out of the Subaru tool kit in the trunk. Or, get a small flat head screwdriver, but really the subaru tool has just the right bend. Bend for what? Adjusting the Parking brake! So now remove the small rubber cover on the lower side of the backing plate. To tighten the shoes you lever the star wheel *up*( lever handle goes down) But in this case we need to loosen the pads, so try to turn the starwheel *down* If you forget there are arrows stamped in that indicate the tightening direction. Go opposite of the arrows to loosen the shoes.

You really need to have all the covers off to do this right. And changing just one belt is asking for trouble later. But first you have to get the coolant out of the motor. So pull the plugs and crank it over. Did you happen to remove the carb from the intake? There could be coolant leaking into the manifold from the carb base if you did.

Yeah, you really need to block down the crossmemeber as well. At least 1 inch. The shorter axles of the EA81 makes it steeper angles once lifted

It should work. But it's kinduv a waste when standard carb distys are pretty commonly available and those turbo distys are hard to find.

Adjust the rear shoes. They are manual adjusting. Once they are worn the shoes have to travel very far to reach the drum, this is what makes the long pedal travel. adjust them or replace(and adjust) them and you will have the pedal feel back.

YOU AREN"T LISTENING!!!! The seals CANNOT be properly installed from outside the retainer. The retainer needs to come out, then the seal presses in from the back side. ALL OF THEM ARE LIKE THIS. EA71,EA81,EA82, EJ .......all of them. Now if you would like to waste more of you're time and ours.....please by all means keep jusgt prying and poking away. Why listen to us? We only have been through this about a bajillion times......what do we know.

Yeah, it's ussually the drivers side rear of the head that leaks oil. Often leaks coolant too.

87 4wd D/R with SPFI? Something isn't right. It's either an 88 or it has been swapped. Anyhow, nice find.

Dirty valve stems can *stick* a bit or rather just drag slowly in and out of the valve guide. If the vavle doesn't return to fully seated each time it goes up and down, there could be some extra slack in the vavletrain. Just my best guess why this worked for him.

We never got a suzuki based justy here in the states. The Chevy sprint and Suzuki Swift that we got here are completely different from our Justys. *(the sprint name was dropped in 88? and reintroduced as our Geo Metro based on the Swift)

I saw a ton of them in Hawaii. I think the rental fleets had a bunch of them, then they got sold to private owners.

+1 just look real good in the exhaust port for cracks. Those ones are bad. Between the valve cracks are fine.

Well, the show was awesome. Alot of interest in the kits......though nobody had money with them. So if you missed us at the show, or don't live in the area and want a kit here is the info on how to order. Right now we are working on a website. In the mean time I can be PM'ed here. The 3 inch lift pictured above are $800 shipped within the US. International shipping more. We are currently also developing an 2000-2004 Leg/Outback/Baja kit that should be ready next month.

Take your heads to a good aluminum TIG welder and have the cracks in the exhaust ports welded. Don't worry about the cracks between the valves in the combustion chamber. Those are cracked on every head and they don't cause problems.