Gloyale

If you expect to drive in any deep snow, or any mud......I vote for running covers. Good condition covers, well sealed. Use zipties to secure the outer covers if captive nuts spin.

Run the tach wire from the EJ harness to the yellow wire in the FPCU (fuel pump control unit) It is mounted on teh driver side kickpanel, above the hood release. You don't need it anymore with the EJ harness controlling the pump. So you can just unplug the connetor, put a male spade on your EJ tach wire, and plug it into the yellow wires slot.

2200 fast idle on a very cold day is pretty normal. It may have persisted longer on that day because of some moisture frozen and stuck in the valve.

Look a the distance from the pump body to the bottom of the pulley hub. If there is barely any (3mm or less) of exposed shaft between, then you have the shorty (105 mm) If there is a longer section (7-10mm)of exposed shaft section, then you have the long one (110) The other indicator is the type of pulley your car has bolted onto the water pump. If the pulley has 4 holes to bolt onto the hub, and an additional 4 studs that are for the clutch fan, it is meant to be used with the short (105mm) pump. If you have the simple pulley, that just has 4 holes to slip over the studs, adn then the clutch fan slips over the same studs....then you have the 110mm pump. IMO that the 110 mm pumps are much more common.

Keeping a good set of plug wires on your Subaru is one of the very best htings you can do to make it happy:)

Pull the Temp sensor connector next time it won't start. If it then starts right up......you know that the CTS is the problem IMO I have never seen an intermittently failing crank or cam sensor. I've only ever seen one bad one, and it was dead always. If the car will start predictable cold, but not warm it's 99.9% a CTS issue.

It's technically to prevent wheel lock up. These people aren't having wheel lock(skidding) they are simply rolling forward when they want to apply the brakes harder and stop. What is happening here is that in snowy (or muddy) conditions, with not so great tires, there is very little friction between the car and the road. This makes it very easy for a wheel to lock up.....so the ABS won't let you apply the brakes very hard. Now anyone familiar with driving in snow knows that alopt of times you just need to be able to lock the wheels for that last 5mph of slow down and gently slide to a stop. But the ABS won't let you do that..........you just keep on rolling. This also addresses the snow tire/bald tire issue. If you have better grip on the road, more friction, the wheels won't so easily lock, so the ABS will let them keep gripping and braking.

I second this. I got bought one cheap to use the frame for a Subaru Build. Body had a bit of rust, but I figured I could still use the frame right? WRONG!!! the thing was swiss chees everywhere underneath, I mean every seam, every bend, every weld was just absolutely eaten to dust. Had to scrap it. On the plus side, Isuzu FI systems are some of the Most similar to Subaru out there. They are the on;y other make I take into my shop. In fact the late 80s MPFI 4 cyls. use many of the same part and have an almost identical self diagnosis process. Connie, if you are familiar with our Subie FI, you will have no problemn with the Isuzu.

Probably just blcoked all the air flow to the radiator, and working it hard from plowing the snow. Also, I have noticed alot of EJ engines getting VERY hot on first warm up, until the thermostat opens on these cold days( gotta love the hanging out in space at the BOTTOM of the motor thermostats)

I noticed in another post that you're car is a manual trans. If so, you don't have a flexplate. And why would you think that it's cracked? Kinduv an unheard of issue for subarus, and it would be hard to diagonos or notice externally anyhow. why not tell us more about your car (year, model, trans) and what the EXCACT problem (symptoms) are (not what you guess is the cause)

Thermostat has nothing to do with the warm up idle. That is controlled by the ECU and the AAV(Aux Air Vallve, above the thermostat) And you will want to pull the engine. SOOOOOO much easier. You can do this work in the car. But pulling the heads off and getting the back on is tough. you will be happier, and able to do a better job with the engine removed.

Clunking in 4wd when going on and off throttle, Forward/reverse, etc.....is most often a sign of a bad U-joint at the front off the center driveline. Easy fix is to replace with a used one. It is also possible to ahve the original u-joint unstaked and replaced, but not really easy. Even sourcing the correct u-joint can be tough. But used ones are a dime a dozen. Order one from out west and it won't have any rust.

My partner and I are HighGuys. We have 3 inch kits for you're legacy in stock. 4in. and 6in. kits available on request with deposit. PM me here, or Email me at Loveyoursubaru@yahoo.com for more info. Search my name, and MrGLegacy on youtube for videos of our cars. "Clifford" the big red Legacy, and teh Green Brighton with the rack both sport our 3 inch kit.

The only freeze plugs in an EA engine are on the heads, ..........under the valve covers. So if they pop, you won't know it till you're engine overheats........ then you add more coolant and wonder "gee....why is it taking 2 gallons to fill this?"......... Then you start the engine, run coolant through the bearings, and eventually it hydro locks as the PCV sucks up the sludgy oil/antifreeze mixture. Yeah, So.......I would say you should do an oil change, and check closely for any signs of coolant in the oil.

You know how spark plug sockets have that hex head on the back of them, Like 7/8ths or something? I've found that the spark plug socket with a deep 7/8ths over it makes the perfect length. Also, make sure the rubber sleeve in your spark plug socket is glued into the socket, or just remove it. The worst thing that can happen with these is for that sleeve to slide off when you remove the socket. If that happens, you won't be able to re-seat the plug wires.

ONly problem is that you won't have the clearance at the spring perches. Scott's blue sedan above has a lift design that allows for the bigger tires, and wide offset wheels. Just using Outback struts and a conventional strut/body block lift you will be limited to about a 29" no matter how large the bodylift.

Just 95 96s' are lifted For future reference it really is better to Use the tophats that match the car, rather than redrill the body. You still get lift just reusing the legacy springs

That could also be the EGR reset connector. Is it close to a set of single pole blue connectors hooked toghether? If so, the green one is the EGR reset. When the stupid EGR light comes on to tell you to "service" the EGR (yeah, right) just disconnect the blue ones nad plug the green one into the one that it fits. Reset Fuel Pump will have nothing to do with that wire.

Sounds like someone has replaced the motor with a Non-MPFI shortblock. Do not drill through. There is more differenc in the block than just that hole. The block you have will not have the extra baffle area behind the #3 cylinder. It's not a problem though, just route the rest of the PCV system and cap the hose to that vent.

This thread has gone haywire. First off, this is a carbed car, 4wd, so no Feedback or ECM or test connectors. The Fuel pump in your car is (or was) operated by a device reffered to as a "rev sensor" or FPCU(fuel pump control unit) It is bolted into the footwell, just above the hood release cable(uses the same bolts) It has a 6 pole wire connector. There is a Ign. Switched power wire(can't reacll color),a Ground(black) The Blue/red stripe wire is the "out" to the Fuel pump. The yellow wire is the Tach signal. There is also a wire that sends power to the electric choke when the Fuel pump is running. The Unit will not send power through to the pump unless it is seeing a pulse from the tach("senses" revolutions) Look around for the connector for that unit, and I'll bet you will find someone has jumpered across fromt eh swithched power straight to the fuel pump. The bad part about that is that if there is a crash, the pump will continue to run, even with the engine off.....possibly creating a fire hazard. IIRC, the FPCU ussually has a 3 diamond logo (like Mitsubishi) on it. And the connector for it is black.

Parts to rebuild the EJ22 are VERY easily available. Cost me about 280 for everything. Rod and Crank bearings, Rings, and a headgasket set (if you can get a Stone gasket set, it has actual Subaru headgaskets included) machine work is extra depending on whether you get the block just honed or actually bored. Also depends on wether the crank needs ground down, or just honed. If you find a decent running donor without TOO many miles, you can ussually just hone, and use standard rings and bearings. Reuse the pistons. Of course, measurment needs to be done carefully to determine these factors. This is just silly. And sound like alot of justinfication for taking the "easy" way about things. IMO that installing a junkyard motor is way more of a gamble than the chance that something goes wrong with the rebuild And the bearing surface crap? BS......unless it actually spun a bearing, there is no reason that new bearings can't be installed. Your translating what you saw splitting a trans case into thoughs on what hte bearings might be like in the engine.......but they are ENTIRELY different bearing types and applications. My hunch is you've never rebuilt an EJ have you? Why does everyone who HASN'T DONE IT......insist that they know why it isn't worth it? Well it is. You get more power from restored compression, no oil burn off, better milage, and the peace of mind that now the car can rot around it, but the engine will be running strong for 20 more years.

Welcome. Good for you for wanting to do a rebuild. I am tired of all the "just toss in a JDM or JY motor" talk. In my opinion it is a VERY short sighted solution, and a gamble at best. The BEST option is a rebuild. Get the large coolant passage O-ring (the orange one, special rubber for coolant) from Subaru. The other 3 o-rings are the same size, and can be standard black rubber just make sure to get a proper diameter and thickness. Definately get yourself a 14mm Hex head (allen) type socket, 1/2 drive prefferably, to remove the wrist pin access caps. And then, fashion a long hook out of rod stock, and attach a slide hammer to it to pull the wrist pins(after removing the circlip of course) You simply don't have the correct tool (stiff hook, slide hammer, cool head and patience) Have you actually rebuilt one and put it back toghether into a running engine that way....? And if you have, did you warn the poor fool that's driving that car now? It is possible to split the halves, unbolt 2 of the rod caps and then seperate, but it is a hassle. I ONLY ever had to resort to this when trying to disassemble a block that has spun cylinder liners blocking the access holes. You need actual 12mm swivel sockets, not just the extension to use with a regular socket) Additionally, you can only get to one of the bolts on each cap, then you have to force the halves back toghether(hoping the bearings haven't shifted and no crud got in them) and rotate it 180 to get the other ones. Splitting them that way is hard enough........I wouldn't even consider putting one toghether that way. It would not be possible to completely ensure a proper assembly and sealing.

5 years and 2 days, to be excact.

Yes, but if you don't even know how to use a flipping test light what are you even trying for? Try reading some basic testing and repair manuals before you start wasting our time asking irrelevant questions. If you don't know wether or not voltage is getting to the motor, how can you diagnos it as bad? Heck just run 2 wires to the motor and put 12v on it. Try it both ways, wires one way is up, the other is down. if the motor doesn't respond to direct voltage, THEN it can be deemed bad.