Gloyale

My EA81 wheeler was amazingly gutless to for my tastes. I say EJ18 or 22

Subaru ran Turbo EA82s in front of the 3AT. 110 HP in the U.S. and 137 HP in Europe. I think it would work just fine as long as you have a good working 3AT. Of course the heavier your foot, the shorter the life......but 3ATs are cheap and plentiful from Loyales. Heck, an EJ22 might actually have enough power to make a 3AT auto drive reasonable.

you thought you put a quick lift on you're EA82? OR....... "how big of a tire can I put on without a lift?" LOL Not like this:lol:

Backwards The vented rotor is thicker, and uses a larger caliper

Looks like the rubberized coating on the original early type EJ25 headgasket. The early gasket was coated on it's whole surface. This left much of the coating exposed in big patches (ring around cylinder, open deck) to the coolant. Eventually, espescially if improper coolant mix is used, the coating flakes away. This leaves a ragged edge to deteriorate at the edge of the sealing surfaces and eventually leaks form. Probably better to get the HG job done now before it overheats drastically and damages bearings, warps the heads/block.

What Flywheel/Clutch set are you using? And do you have any photos of the adapter? I have a VW specialist right next door to my shop, and he has inquired about this type of swap.

Ummm.......except the Carb?

unbolt the reverse lockout arm from the selector rod before removing rear section(access under cover plate on top) Make sure to remove the 3 bolts holding the input shaft bearing in the bellhousing before splitting. remove D/R shift lever by punching out rollpin and sliding it off. For donor 23 spline stubs, the 4 spd ones might work, but for sure any EA82 5spd ones will. The ones from Auto are different.

First remove it and get every trace of RTV out of there. That stuff will squeeze out into little beads in there and then travel down the line to clog stuff up. Even if you end up HAVING to run with only 4 of 5 bolts, at least you won't clog a main bearing Plus with the pump removed, there MAY be enough sticking out to grab with Vice-grips.

Those are the 85 model mirrors. ONe of the few visual cues to distinguish an 85 from 86.

Bump for EJ lifts

I've seen the bumper mount style ones bend and sag pretty drasticly

Probably the big Double Ball bearing on the main(upper) shaft. It is between the 3/4 and 5th gearsets on the shaft. At the rear of the case, and it is the ONLY thing that keeps the shaft from sliding for and aft in the trans. When the shaft can walk forward, it disengages the 3rd gear shiftcollar. If fixed in the early stages, you can simply replace the bearing, and all the seals while you are in there (I just did this to my mothers 96 OB) After 4 years though, the gears, and the faces on the thrust washers of the gearsets, are probably trashed. But it might be worth it to open 'er up and take a look. Even if you have to take the shaft in to have the new bearing pressed, you can save ALOT of money doing the disassembly yourself.

Dropping in an actual "NEW" enigine will cost you 3 times as much EASILY as simply replacing a headgasket. Dropping in a reasonably priced "used" engine will cost roughly the same, but then you have an unknown motor, that could still blow up tommorow. FYI, Junkyards require that EVERY external engine part and seal be replaced (including oil pump) in order for them to honor any warranty they might claim to give. So there the cost goes up over the price of just "dropping in" a motor. The most cost efficient, and long term sound thing to do is to put new headgaskets on the motor (assuming it runs well, and hasn't been SEVERELY overheated). Replace all the seals, waterpump, and timing belt at the same time you will have a rock solid car for the next 5-10 years, at least engine wise.

How did swapping motors affect the RPM to Speed ratio? That should all be determined by the gear ratios? Is it an Automatic trans? And now with more power it can hold the TC lockup at higher speed?

Put the rear end up on jackstands and try to spin the wheel.

Except, as this thread shows, that just cause YOU know what you mean, WE don't. You will get better answers faster if you provide correct details about the car in question. FYI, both models can be collectively referred to here as "EA82"

On a dual range GL the linkage is actually solid levers. Not cable or vacuum. Thrown off by this sentence " 1988 GL rear locking up So last night i bought myself my 4th Loyale. " Anyhow. So just the drivers side huh? Yeah, I'll bet that you simply have a bad rear wheel bearing on that side.

Good catch. I was thrown off by this first sentence

IAC valve stuck open, or incorrectly connected to the intake. Otherwise a BIG vacuum leak around the throttle body.

Locks entirely or just drags one wheel? One wheel only could be a wheel bearing. I've seen 3 lock solid. Not coming out of 4wd could be a problem with the vacuum solenoid that operates the 2wd/4wd shifting mechanism. Or, it could simply be the wheel bearing locked is keeping tension built up in the driveline.

Sadly, this is only on the 2.5 engines:-\ For a 2.2 you really almost have to use a GOOD strap wrench or a proper Cam tool.

So you're mustache bar now has no Flex? I mean it is now solidly connected to the unibody? I am not sure that is good. Not sure it's bad either but.....hmmm.....

With much respect I am going to say you are wrong. Here's why. The sender for the Oil Pressure gauge,like is in a GL, makes a lower resistance to ground as the pressure goes higher. Top of the gauge, 85 psi, is signaled by an almost zero ohm connection to ground. Now the sender for the Oil Pressure Light is exactly opposite. When the pressure drops to near zero, it connects the circuit directly to fully grounded, triggering the warning light "NO OIL PRESSURE", that's what the light means. So you see.....his Gauge sending unit is grounding when revved up and the pressure is high. Opposite of the simple switch type sender for the light.

I've seen several GLs with *bolt on* hithces. In fact I have one on my 89 Wagon. They all seem to be of the same type. I think they were available as dealer option. Might have a hard time finding one anymore though. This type bolts into the holes the recovery hooks are mounted to from the factory. There is also an extra bolt further forward on the frame rail. Seems like the nut for that *extra* bolt has to be inserted from the opening were the bumper mounts, so the bumper needs to come out for installation of this type of hitch. If you can find one I recommend it, as it has been very tough. Saves the back end from alot of hammering and scraping when offroading.