Gloyale

Should be 3.7, but might be 3.54 Since it's a FWD......it won't really matter though? Why does he need to know?

I've got a stock EA82 y-pipe going into a 2 in pipe to a 2in. muffler on my SPFI'd EA81.....works well....a little loud, but that is the cheap *raptor* muffler. I kinked the exhaust about 2/3rds of the way to the muffler where I made a bend, and I actually think it helped. When I drove it with just the y pipe, it was lacking at low RPMS. After Adding the 2in pipe with the kink....it felt better. And I thought I fu..ed up when I made the bend.

Well....you asked if XT and XT6 were the same......not Loyales The 92 Loyale auto is a 3spd with pushbutton 4wd(3AT). An 88 XT6 would most likely have the 4spd *fulltime* automatic (4EAT) You can't use the 4spd auto in your loyale without a major wirng job. The Trans Computer and wiring would need installed and hooked up to the TPS signal.....although likely that won't work because the SPFI use a different Ohm range for the TPS. Even if by chance the xt6 had a 3AT with pushbutton, it would likely be the wrong gear ratio, and would have 25 spline stubs like a turbo. So if all you want is a new automatic for you're loyale, just buy one from a wrecker for $200. The XT6 auto won't work.

Another reason to SPFI swap.

I don't think the 2wd 5spd will handle the power. 7-7/8th clutch, with tiny input shaft..........on a carryover design from the 70's? I mean, the EA82 2wd 5spd is essentially the same as the old 2wd ea71 5spds. It is completely different and way wimpier than the 4wd or 2wd turbo 5spds. I would at least upgrade to an EJ 5spd. Hell, since it is FWD that would be an easy swap. Find a FWD 93 or 94 impreza and get the trans.......you shouldn't even need to swap axles. And that way you wouldn't need an adapter plate.

5 spds yes. Autos not quite, but it would interchange.

Sounds like you need to inspect the keyway on the crank that keeps the pulley aligned. If it is hogged out the timing could be jumping. But likely he is just having a problem getting the belts *set* What I do, is install the belt and tensioner (don't tighten the tensioner bolts yet), and tensioner pulley. Then Last thing I install is the lower left (passenger side) pulley on the engine. The belt makes a long run there so it is the easiest one to install last. Before pulling the pin on the tensioner remeber to do 2 things: First, push down on the tensioner pulley to take up any slack and reexamine you're belt install to make sure it is still lined up. Ignore lines on the belt.....just go by the hash marks and get them all straight up. Second, before pulling pin, use a screwdriver and pry the tensioner as far left as it will go.....this is the reason for the slotted holes.....once you've got it tighten the bolts down.... Then pull the pin.

If you are already drilling, you might as well use actual Automobile wheels that are cheap and easy to get. 6 Lug late 80's and early 90's Toyota wheels FTW

Run you're power lead out of the Fuse box. The main power lead to the fuse/relay box should be bolted on to the bottom. Put a ring terminal on it and run you're wiring from there.

Wire into the existing tailight harness. There is absolutely no reason to wire to the battery for simple lighting. I personally hate accessories and add-ons wired directly to battery. Leaves more and more unfused pigtails coming off the battery and makes things look *messy* in the battery area.

Early and late Injectors are identical from everything I've ever seen. I have interchanged them without any detrimental effects.

Any EJ 5spd bracket can be easily made to bolt onto the trans....then cut and weld a pitch stopper to length. I offer this service at my shop....PM me if you wanna come down.... BTW, I've seen you driving around OR. City Kinda hard to miss with the Electric green wheels.....nice.

There is another bolt under the Compressor. To the LEFT side of the compressor, straight down between the PS pump and the compressor. it's the one I mentioned can be loosened and and the bracket slips out. It is not circled in your picture so I am assuming you missed it.

He would also need new stubs, unless his welded diff has them in it already. And actually, once removed from the diff....he might be able to get them out with that air hammer:banana:

The book spec: *standard* at 134 to 145 psi. *limit* at 105-117 psi But most of the ones I've tested in the real world are between 110-130, even on fresh rings. So it sounds to me like he has a tired engine, but I doubt that is the source of the running problem he is having.

Carefully remove the clamp on the inner CV boot. Remove the retainer clip from the inner cup slide the outer cup off the splines, then slide the axle and joint out of the inner cup. This leaves you just the inner cups attached to your diff, now you can remove it from the car to work further. Clean out the inside of the cup, and use a chisel punch to remove the sheetmetal plate at the bottom of the stuck cup. You don't have to completely remove it just enough so you can see the bolt head underneath and get a socket on it. Then use an E10 1/4 drive deep socket to unbolt the stub from the diff. (sometimes a good six pointed 9mm or 10mm socket will work, but the correct E10 socket is better) Once unbolted, the stub will come right out of the diff. Now you can take the stub and stuck cup to a machine shop and have them press off the cups.

Not the same, but interchangable. Besides, if the donor is an 85, and you got an 88....they should both be EA82

There is a flathead screw recessed into a hole in the throttle body. A little smaller than a dime. Use this screw to adjust the idle after the car is good and warm.

See, the problem is, it IS NOT a bolt in. Other than sourcing an adapter plate and drilled flywheel(about $300 order yours today:grin:) there is nothing less expensive or difficult than doing an EJ swap. To run this MPFI engine, With or without Turbo, requires a major rewire. I see 2 paths to this MAYBE...... The maybe path would be to swap the entire front end harness, back to the ECU and main Plugs. This would mean all the harness depicted in The front wiring harness diagrahms chpt.6-3, pages 8 and 10 with all the F-- labeled connectors. If you have an FSM to look at for 89 or 90. No need to rewire, but the whole damn front of the car would need torn apart. And where are you going to get you're MPFI harness and ECU from? Or , approach it like an EJ swap and just cut out needed wires from MPFI loom and mate them into existing SPFI harness. And at that rate.....you could easily just put an EJ in it.

Spider= dual port intake heads SPFI= single port intake heads You would have to swap the MPFI heads on.....additionally you still need to wire the ECU Injection harness. FWIW, 4 cyl XT is rated at 97 HP@5200 RPMs and 139 ft/lbs torque@3200.

IDK.....I started in Subies with Carbed EA82s.....then when I got my first EA81 I was excited to see that setting float levels would eb so much easier with the sight glass. I really don't think most EA82 carbs had the sight glass.......but I digress....... To the OP.......you do know you need to swap you're disty out to a conventional one, right? it won't run off that 4 wire optical one in the car......espescially without a harness or ECU!

Correct, that would backfeed the FP relay. That would supply it with power, however without a functional ECU to ground the signal pin of the relay it the Fuel pump will not run. And Besides, if there is a break in the wire somewhere, power will still not get everywhere it needs to. I wouldn't try that method. At best that is a troubleshooting idea. But it isn't the best one. Multimeters and Wiring diagrahms exist for a reason. If he follows my instruction in my last post he WILL find the problem.

Have I just not ever seen an EA82 with a sight glass on the carb?

Drain some coolant out first, so when you pull the intake, Coolant won't pour dwon into the intake and flood whichever one has an open valve.(can you say HYDROLOCK?)

Knock sensor would cause probs at high RPMs and load. Not so much at lower RPMS, adn if it were bad enough to affect driveability it would be setting a code. I am thinking MAF