Gloyale

New connectors and a soldering iron are a wonderful thing.

I totally agree. My carbuerated 4wd Sedan was only made 1 year, 1984, and only available with a 3AT tranny. It is maybe:confused:the most rare regular production model of the EA81 series. It was the ONLY original 4wd EA81 Sedan at WCCS10 That's why I ignore all those who try to tell me I need to lift or EJ swap or Manual swap my 84 GL 4wd Sedan. It is all original(including engine and tranny), no rust, and just minimal little dings and paint fade in the body. It will be restored, to stock. I have lot's of subies, and all of them are modified.......except the Little Black 4wd Sedan. Keep him stock if that's what you desire Connie, it's actually the smart thing to do.

Correct. 3 inch blocks + 99 Leg Outback struts (new KYB GR-2) Original Legacy Rear Springs. Our lift will install just fine without swapping struts, and would yield a 3 inch lifted car. However, you need the Outback struts to clear anything larger than about 195/70/15 tires.

Tried that, got moved.

I think the size of square tube you need to use would be too large to fit in the strut tower. Perhaps with some creative grinding of the horizontal plates.

My 89 GL was originally Turbo. I am running without a turbo on the engine (yes I put 9.5:1 pistons in it) but still have the original turbo ECU and it runs great. A turbo ECU certainly would run his project.

sorry, but you got it backwards. You're loyale will last a long time, but WILL need more work. Wheel bearings, radiator, and the rest of the car are old and will need service. Then about the time you take care of that stuff, the engine will need new seals. And by that point getting seals, brake parts, etc....may become difficult. By contrast, the 95 with it's non interference 2.2 will make more power, be more reliable, and parts wil be easily aavilable for years to come still.

Actually the Five Speed is shorter. You'll need a longer driveshaft or mount an EA82 2 piece shaft in there.

Check the rotor. Then the timing belts. Then the Coolant Temp Sensor.

86 and 87 2wds have SPFI 88 and after all 2wd and 4wd non turbo are SPFI * an important note...... All years of SPFI use the same system, but the early 86,87 models use different connectors for the temp sensor and Distributor. Parts from any year can be used with any year as long as the connectors are changed. The one real funcional difference is that the Ref voltage and Signal voltage pins for the distributor where switched. To use a new disty in an older model, the pins will switch as long as you match wire colors on the disty when splicing connectors. To use a new ECU in an older model, the pins for the Green/yellow wire and the Green/black wire on the engine harness that connects to the disty need switched.

Above the hood relaese handle is a small black box with a 6 wire connector. That is the Fuel Pump Control Unit, sometimes labeled *rev sensor* on the wiring diagrahms. The yellow wire is a tach pulse(from neg side of coil) When the unit recieves a tach pulse (from a cranking engine) it sends power though to the fuel pump (Blue wire w/orange stripe or black stripe). You should test that unit to make sure it A) has 12v to it with the Key on. And that the black wire is ground. get's a coil pulse while cranking (test with RPM function on Multimeter) C) gives power to the Fuel pump wire during cranking.

I just don't see how that's possible. All of the manual trannies I've ever had apart, 4spd and 5spd have identical diff assemblies. Same bearings, same inrenal splines. Did Fuji REALLY use THAT different of stuff over there? Well, shoot.....I could mail you a set of our EA82 trans 23 spline stubs.

I suspect that the Tach signal is not getting to the display.

Yeah, those are my favorite of the stock EA82 wheels.

Hey guys. Well, it's official...... HIGHGUYS lift kits will be for sale at WCCS 11. We are trying to determine how much interest there will be and how many kits we need to fab up for the show. So this is a feeler. We will have a limited # of kits for sale at a special introductory price (TBA) The kits are made specifically for 90-99 Legacy, although we believe they will work for an Impreza and Forrester as well. Kit bolts to the body with original bolts and the subframes bolt into pre-welded in place nuts in the blocks. Kits are painted. Steering shaft and dogbones not included. We are in Corvallis, OR about an hour and a half south of Portland, and also offer installation of the kits. So Get your kit from us at WCCS 11 or come down and hang out with the HighGuys.

Where is you're original EA81 flywheel? They are lighter anyway and the EA82 plate bolts right to it.

Did you by chance have the dash part? stereo installation? The reason I ask is because it's easy to leave the Hazard button unplugged during reassembly, which will make the turns not work.a

Get a new radiator cap. Put the car at an incline REMOVE, not just open the bleeder cap. Fill the car SLOWLY, it will take a while, just keep adding a trickle until it comes out the bleeder. Replace but don't tighten bleeder. Then start the car, and run it steady at about 1800 rpms, still with rad cap off. Run it until you see the level drop slighlty, and *flow* in the radiator. keep running it for a bit, the level will bulge up out of the filler neck, followed by a few bubbles. Let it do that a few times and refill. once it starts getting *foamy* looking and hot, cap it off and close the bleeder. If you keep going with the system open at this point the coolant will start boiling and you are moving backwards. You shouldn't need to do that more than twice. If you still have problems after that, espescially if you're overflow is filling and boiling out, you probably need to replace the HG. You may as well get used to the idea............if it doesn't need em now, it will someday soon.

I think that if the computer senses that even by cutting voltage to the C solenoid there is still a difference in front and rear wheel spin it will trigger the code. Letting you know there is a problem with the transfer clutch, even though the solenoid works. Also I think it's possible for the solenoids to fail to an open condition, where they won't close and seal all the way to hold pressure on the clutches.

Well went toghether fine except for not working:rolleyes: I'm telling you, If you are using an EA81 trans, use a EA81 flywheel. Or have you're EA82 flywheel machined to match to the EA81 flywheel dimensions. You can still use an EA82 or XT6 pressure plate, but until you space the Flywheel mating surface further away from the trans, you are gonna have the TO bearing riding too close to the Pressure plate. Of course......you did try letting slack out of the cable? Just to rule out the adjustment factor?

I think you are thinking about it backwards. The ignition relay SUPPLIES the power to the ECU. It does not GET it's power from the ECU. THat is a crappy diagrahm by the way. I don't see the power supply line to the ignition relay. I see a *hot in start*, I wonder if they mean hot in run. You really should get a FSM diagrahm.

The EA81 Flywheel is thinner. It surface sits closer to the back of the engine. You should have used the EA81 flywheel if you are using the 4spd D/R from the EA81. Otherwise you need to mill about 2mm off the crankshaft mating surface of the EA82 wheel. I'm surprised you didn't have an issue with the starter clearing.

That's the engine in my daily driver. Swapped regular pistons into the Turbo motor and dropped an XT spider intake on it. Took the turbo out. Then I recently swapped the 4EAT for a 5spd S/R (street car, no need for D/R) So now car says *Fulltime 4wd Turbo* on the car, but it's really a Non-turbo, part time 4wd.