Gloyale

The engine case is part of the intake system. When you open the cap, you let tons of Un-metered air to enter the intake stream. Engine can't run like that. It's just like pulling one of the PCV tubes out of the intake boot. Very normal. You don't want to add oil with the engine running anyway, it will spit it all back out at you.

The spring in your controller is too soft or something. I have a mass produced version of the same controller on my rig, it works fine. I can tune from 6 psi all the way up to 14 with fine adjusment in hte middle. If you are gonna use an MBC, just disconnect the wastegate solenoid (vac line only, pull hte elec. connectors and you get a CEL)

I respectfully disagree. It is not nearly so cut and dry. I am not talking about situation where a person is going too fast. I am talking about when someone is rolling slowly down a slippery hill, with cars or some obstyacle at the bottom. WITH ABS, the slope of the hill is enough to keep the cars momentum, while a wheel locks (from very very little peddle input), Well now the ABS takes over and keeps the wheels from stopping......allowing you to roll on into whatever is in front of you.......even though you are desperately MASHING the brakes to the floor. I'm not talikin about skiding, I mean rolling....... C'mon.......it DOES say it right in the owners manual.......Subaru KNOWS that ABS is not so good for snow/ice. But Marketing Surveys show people will pay more and feel warm and squishy about it just for the false sense of security those 3 little letters provide.

Yup my 84 Sedan nwith 3AT 4wd is a Hydro Motor. My 84 Wagon 4mt 4wd is a solid lifter (and due for valve adjusment:rolleyes:)

Sounds like bad outer joint on one or both axles. Very Unlikely that there is a diff problem.

Check where the cable runs down along the drivers side of center console. It Operates the blends door. There is a plastic bevel gear there that can slip a few teeth and cause the blend door to not fully close. Not uber common, but I've seen it a few times. Good thing to check, espescially if you have already flushed.

Why do you say this? I have seen a least 3 different First gen legacies not starting because of faulty CTS readings. (resistance so low that the ECU thinks the car is at 280+ degrees.........injects almost no fuel) ANYTIME i have a no start, first thing to try is simply unplug the CTS. Unplugged, the ECU will default to rich starting program. It is worth checking.

Hammer

Pre-83 = Carbed, everything 83-84 = EA81 engine. MPFI on Turbo Models. This is perhaps the 2 injector you spoke of? Everything else Carbed 85 = EA82 engine. 4 injector MPFI on all XT and GL-10's, Turbo MPFI on GL-10s and RX. All EA81s carbed from here out, last mention. 86 = EA82 enigne. MPFI on all XT. SPFI on 2wd. Carbed on 4WDs. Turbo MPFI on GL-10 Turbo and RX 87 = EA82 engine. MPFI on all XT. SPFI on 2wd and California. Carbed on 4wd Federal. Turbo MPFI on GL-10 Turbo and RX 88-89 = MPFI all XT. SPFI all non-turbo DL/GL. Turbo MPFI all GL Turbo, GL-10 and RX 90+ MPFI all XT and All turbo. SPFI everything else.

Why not just pull the intake? It's really not hard. leave the fuel lines hooked up. Just disconnect the upper EGR tube (17mm) the brake booster hose, and the canister lines. Though really, with the alternator out, you should be able to get it with an extension and a wobble.

The mark on the ear at the back of the sprocket, and the dot on the face, are the 2 marks. The dash on the ear is barely visible under the Crank Sensor. Note that some engines the sprockets do not have the dot, only the mark on the ear. The triangle or arrow mark you reference is used with the arrows on the Cam for valve adjustment on solid lifter motors Also as noted the crankshaft keyway will always be straight down when the timing mark is correct.

Plus even if you removed the Diff Gaurd, there would be no sticker. Subaru stopped putting a sticker with ratio and type listing in 1994. 95 and newer models have no outward designation, you just have to know. Put the rear on jacks and see if both wheels spin the same direction. If so, it is VLSD.

did you swap from Automatic to Manual? If so you may need to swap out ECUs, or perhaps just ground/unground a certain pin for MT/AT designation. Not sure which is applicatle to this year. But If you went MT to MT just from a different year, I would suspect a bad switch in the new trans. Or it didn't get plugged in:rolleyes: Basically, the neutral switch tells the computer whether or not hte car is in gear. When in gear driving, at closed throttle, NO fuel is injected, allowing for maximum efficiency, and maximum engine braking. The momentum of the vehichle is relied upon to keep the engine revolving. If the shifter is in neutral, the ecu knows it needs to inject fuel to keep the engine running at closed throttle.

I ussually just pull the intake, flop it over to the side. But when I do choose to just unbolt the Flexplate, I have a 12mm wrench from MAC that has a 6-point socket instead of a box end. Shorter overall than a Ratchet/Socket combo, but deep enough to get into the recess. Removing the alt and using a long extension and swivel works pretty well too.

This thread made me think of another often overlooked, and common leak spot on EJ engines The EJ engines have a seperate crossover from the intake. The above posts about intake gaskets would on;y apply to EA engines. The EJs use this pipe, sealed by O-rings. It is under the intake, and really the intake needs removed to access it, but it does not need to come off to replace heads. That's why it ends up being ignored, even during headgasket replacement. I've seen more than a few EJs come in having just had a headgasket job.....still losing coolant.........and then checked those gaskets and they are leaking. Just wanted to add the thought for anyone who is reading this and chasing coolant loss.

Great that you found the culprit. Get a new hose and a clamp on that thing.

well, subaru did increase the size of the trans tunnel in 88 (I have literature that describes the change), so fitting a 4eat into an early ea82 or any ea81/71 could be difficult. But I don't really think that is what this thread is about.

The 5MT only part that is bigger is the bellhousing and it's only a smidge. the AWD trans are longer, but not any wider. It would totally fit under the tire holder and in the tunnel. And one could swap 23 spline stubs from an EA5spd into the EJ 5spd and then you could run stock axles for whatever rig (ea71,ea81,ea82) IMO, a custom length driveline is the ONLY thing that really needs to be custom. Everything else can be made to work using subaru parts (Legos!)

Those disty's and ECU's ARE interchangable. Thing is, in 88 they switched 2 pins on the ECU. The reference signal and the pulse signal wires on both SPFI, and MPFI ECU harnesses were reversed. 88 and after they all stayed the same. Thing is, you have to swap the (IIRC) green and white wires on the disty harness. You could swap the 2 pins at the ECU also, but doing it at the Disty harness plug is easier. Here is the original thread where I made this discovery. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=101483&highlight=disty+interchange I really should submit to the USRM, but I want to get scans of the pages up first. anyhow the info on that thread is correct as far as pin #s and wiring colors. Reply to my PM if you need more specifics.

You don't need to start with a manual. Just get an EJ Flywheel, a pedal cluster, and a clutch cable from another legacy. Everything else will come from the EA

No actually, it is a legitimate business model. And if you think I don't help people you haven't read this board enough. Thing is, taking the measurements and planning the kit IS THE BULK OF THE WORK. the rest is simple drilling and welding. You aren't me and nothing I said prevents you from saying what you think. I'll say what I feel. Yeah, you can't get blueprints for a leaf blower hovercraft in the back of Boys Life without paying for it. That's my point, he didn't want just a few pointers or a general question......he asked for Frickin blueprints...c'mon what do I just have hours to spend drawing it all up in CAD just for fun? Did I cut up a whole car for jigs just to have something to do? no. I encourage people to do things for themselves......but when they ask me to do it for them I get paid.....that is just how it is. I'm not trying to talk him out of it at all. I just think he's not "doing it himself" if he bases the whole thing off someone elses work. I also have candid spoken with some other lift builders. They are very nice guys. Helpful, they are......but I am pretty sure they want to get paid for there work too, and aren't going to just give away blueprints and dimesions and advice all day long. As far as I know, none of them have posted "blueprints" of their kits of any kind. Let alone the fact that only a few builders even make EJ kits. The 2 others I know of (AA in US and Scorpion in Aus) DEFINATELY would not even think of GIVING away blueprints. Call me a wongleflute all you want. There are not "plenty of places" for Legacy lift kits blueprint out there. If there where, he wouldn't hav e made this post. Like I said.....I had to cut up a whole car as a jig to make my first kit.

Bad cap and rotor, or bad plug wire or plug. If the light will flash on all the other wires, those are the only options

If you are gonna use this for street and want AWD an an EJ, the best and easiest option will be the TY Legacy trans. It is already an EJ trans and will bolt straight ot the EJ motor. Stock clutch and flywheel. simpler shift linkage. t shopuld be a 4.11 final gear, so get the rear end out of the same car, it will bolt right into your brat. You could even get your whole EJ wiring harness form the smae car. At least cut the body side of the connectors for the nuetral switch, reverse switch etc..... The other 2, you'll need adapter plates, a redrilled flywheel. And one may not have a nuetral switch for the FI swap.

We put one in Clifford: First thing needed is EA82 trans, an EA82 clutch, shift linkage and the adapter plate and redrilled flywheel. Second things needed are trans mounts and crossmember. You can use the rear crossmember piece of the legacy as a crossmember to mount the EA82 trans to. Holes drilled, and the under side notched so you can get a wrench in. A taller plate (piece that bolts to trans case) can be made, that the original rubber half of the mount can bolt to. Thirdly, you have to decide which axles to use. There are 2 or maybe 3 options: 1. Split both tranny cases, and then swap the 25 spline axle stubs into the EAfront diff. This is the best option as you will be able to buy off the shelf stock axles for the car as long as it has that tranny. it is however, the most difficult option, and not for the unexperienced with Subaru trans. 2. Make hybrid axles using the Legacy outer joint and axle, and inner cups from an EA82 23 spline axle. Complicated and messy, but not really "hard". A good option if you have time and spare parts. 3. Buy early Impreza 93,94 FWD 5spd axles. They are compatible with the legacy hubs but should have a 23 spline inner joint. 4. After every thing else, you need to have the front section of legacy drive line lengthened to reach the EA82 trans. I think it is about 4 inches, but I really don't recall the excact measurement.

Second that. And also the lever might be adjusted too tight.