Gloyale

yes and yes

the way Subaru parts work you have to order each piece seperate anyhow, so just get a Subaru Friction disc and slap it in with your existing pressure plate and throwout.

In my reseach for my swap, I found that the EJ harness (at least my 93 Legacy harness) used the same wire for the gauge as one of the 2 CTS wires. It just splits off of the CTS wire and goes to the gauge. I couldn't figure out where they seperated or how the ECU read the reading from the CTS and not just from the gauge sender. Check the 92 FSM MPFI engine diagrahms....the CTS wire splits off and is labeled as "to temp gauge" but I can't find it on any of the other diagrahms. SO......being confused......What I did was strip out a long piece of shielded 2 wire bundle from my EJ harness(probably ABS wires). I ran this one shielded strand from the engine bay to under the dash where my OP gauge and Temp Gauge wires from the dash are. I used the 2 wires, one for my Temp gauge and one for Oil Pressure, seperating them entirely from the rest of my EJ harness. I wired in a 270 Ohm, 1/2 watt resitor parrallel to my sender....and my temp reads right on the line in the middle of the EA81 gauge at operatiing temp. I still only have the original EJ oil pressure dummy light sender in the block. So currently the gauge pegs in the morning when I turn the key on, and then drops to zero after the engine is started. If my oil pressure gauge ever moves off zero while drivng, I know I have a problem.

All grounds check out. Still running fine. It just un-nerves me that there is 24v on that wire, and without the diode I installed, it would be backfeeding power to my lights. Has anyone else run into this? Particularly the backfeed issue? It makes me wonder if it's somehow related to my Alt wiring?

First thing I always do when a car comes in with a busted or slipped belt, is to hang a used belt and pulley(s) as needed on it and see how it runs, test compression, etc...... I'd say almost half of those I get in, espescially phase II SOHC engines, the owners are lucky and everything runs fine (doesn't mean nothing hit, just nothing hit that bad) But it makes no sense at all to junk it before trying that. on another note, IMO that DOHC subaru Engines are very difficult to properly do a head job on with the engine in the car. Most shops are well within reason to want to pull the motor to do that job. I always do.

84 GL wagon 4spd D/R 4wd Newly installed EJ18 from 95? Impreza. ECU, intake and harness from a 93 Legacy. redrilled rhe original EA81 flywheel for EJ. AA copy adapter plate. SPFI air cleaner and air tube used with ABS plastic and extra legacy intake to make CIA/Snorkle. Off the shelf radiator hoses to make the adaption from EA rad to EJ and extra length for 6" lift. I got a good pic of the goodyear part#. These hoses would likely work for a 4 inch lift too. Upper : Lower : EJ and EA Alt harnesses mated. Sodlered a pigtail on the EJ harness to plug EA body wires into. EJ fan control interupted and run through Double Throw W/center off switch controling ground side of fan relay. Fan can be defeated, Turned on, or ECU controlled depending on this switch.

Make sure it is routed UNDER the steering shaft.

7 blinks means no current code is active, which, when the car isn't driving.....means very few possible codes. What you need to do is plug in the 2 white read memory connectors. This will output stored codes. You may get several at first. I suggest recording them, clearing them, then retesting after a short drive. (clear codes by plugging in both green and white connectors, then rev over 2k rpm and drive 1 mph) light will flash when cleared.

That head is either on the wrong side, or it is an NA head. The bosses are all there though, you definately could have that head machined to accommodate the oil return tube and the oil supply feed line.

Newly finished. 2" ABS plastic. routed via jbbvw's example. Except I used a flexible SPFI intake tube to make the bend. I really have always wanted to have that "SUBARU F.I." badge visible on the outside for a snorkle. Swirl on the end to prevent rain water and highway speed roof spray from getting in. SPFI aircleaner mounted on the spare tire shelf. 2" shower drain fitting installed onto back of the airbox to make a tight seal to the ABS.

I was kinda waiting to compile a complete build thread before revealing my lifted rig v2.0 But since this thread is here.....I'll at least post a roll call. Here is my 84 GL wagon. LIFT: 6" home built by previous owner. Modified and Strengthened by HighGuys. ENGINE:1995? Impreza EJ18 Longblock.(thanks to Mellow65 for the great deal on it) ECU, Intake, and harness from '93 Legacy 2.2 WHEELS AND TIRES: 265/70/16 in these pics. Redrilled Tacoma wheels Great but only for sand. 215/75/15 Snow tires for this winter. Hope to have 225/60/16 for next winter. 235/75/15 mudders will go on next summer. Mounted on Narrow offset rims for front, deep offset for rears. This is to compensate for my wider EA82 front subframe. OTHER MODS: Of course the EA82 Front end. Crossmember, Contol arms, radius rods, axles....... mounted to modified EA81 Radius rod plate. Swaybar removed, plate extended and angled up to meet body and extra mounting ear welded on (bolts into captive nut used for Auto trans crossmember, unused with 4spd) Modified Gen 1 Skidplate. Extended to bolt to crossmember, and reinforced with a few strips of old mustache bar metal. EA82 SPFI aircleaner box and SPFI air intake used along with extra legacy air intake and some Schedule 40 ABS 2" pipe to make high mount air cleaner and Snorkle Fan relay wire interupted and run to a Single Pole/Double Throw with Center OFF switch. This allow the ECU to control the Fan normally when swithc is in one position. Or I can ground the wire and trigger the relay with switch in the other position. Or with center OFF Fan can be defeated for water crossing. 270 OHM resistor parrallel on temp sender wire to correct EJ resistance curve to EA gauge. EJ idiot light sender wired to OP gauge on dash. Needle pegs high on start, then drops to zero when pressure builds. If I ever see the needle raise while driving I know somethings wrong

Yeah. Holy cow. Wow, I wish I had been able to play with everyone else:( By the time we got the clutch in on monday afternoon, the weather had turned bad and there was nobody else at all on the sand. Actully, we did see two ATVs at the top of one hill, hunkering down to wait out a whipping wind storm. We had fun but I had to keep it pretty mellow cause there was no hope of getting assistance if I got stuck. Plus I didn't really know where I was going. I never made it past that first section where the 2 stockers got stuck and I smoked my clutch:mad: I love the pic of Scooby and Cmiller in the woods and wish I had been able to do some of that stuff. Lets go again! (After I get a 5-spd d/r and a real clutch)

This motor is in a VW beetle. May not be so easy. Also does this motor by chance have a weber? and if so was the coolant port in the intake blocked before it was installed?

Well with the current wheels and tires you don't need to do anything. You STILL may need to trim to get a tire size you want. The wheel well opening is on;y so wide, and at a certain point unless you lift it 20" to clear the body entirely, you need to put a larger circle into a small hole. Don't be affraid of the BFH........it's your friend here. go slow and it will look fine. The larger tires will make it look so much better that you won't even notice the "massage" work done to the body.

Yeah, that is normal. The travel geometry means it moves away from that spot under compression. If you go to a MUCH larger tire (205/70/15) or bigger you will need to either trim/bash and or get the trailing arm mount bracket from an outback....though with trimming it isn't needed.

Well, I couldn't get the truck started last night to go up with the trailer. So I decided to go with plan B, and put a clutch disc in it on the site on Monday. I had a 2wd Ea82 clutch disc on hand, and I bought a whole duralast clutch set from Autozone hoping to get a proper disc. But stupid autozone gave me another small 2wd (or 1600 4wd) clutch disc.......so I had to go with what I had. Thankfully, when I got there, the nice Camp Host had let her park in his lot so she was still there when we arrived. Loaded up the tranny jack, a floor jack, jack stands, some tools, a couple creepers and a tarp into the trunk of the 4wd Sedan, and set out to the rescue. Drive line duct taped into rear of tranny, disconnected from diff. Tranny stayed on the jack and we just slid the driveline back with it to prevent any fluid spills.Gratuitous shot of my modified radius rod mount plates. I got tired of the boat anchor effect backing up in mud.Tis is as far as we seperated the tranny and motor. Just enough, you can see the pilot tool for the new clutch disc still in there. Here's the fried disc. And the "new" disc going in "temporarily" as a "make it home" solution. Another shot of the new disc. And my spiffy r-use of the SPFI snorkus for a portion of my snorkel. It worked. Got there at 2:30, fired it up and drove under her own power by 4:15. Some of the people in the parking lot were kinda staring with disbelief as they realised we where succesfully changing out our clutch. One of the guys jaws dropped when he saw the disc come out. Then we couldn't resist spending a little time out on the sand after all! The wagon ripped! Even with a tiny 7 7/8ths clutch disc hanging on by it's edge for dear life behind EJ power! Then we stopped for a bite and a beer before the drive back to Corvallis. What a trip.......kinda glad to be finally home though Great to see everyone.

Smoked my clutch. Nothing left. Had to get a ride home with 4Tes in his Legacy. Left the car at the Park hosts' parking spot (He was really nice and promised not to let anyone mess with it, htough he wants me to get it quickly.) So now I am gonna fire up the diesel Ford and go tow it home, hopefully. Anyone got a decent EA81 4spd D/R clutch disc?

Leaving now. See ya'll there.

just hook the yellow wire from the original disty harnes onto the negative side of the coil.

My plate is tapped for M10x1.25 both sets of holes. Very close, and steel so it holds well. Had to drill out the threads in the top holes of the EJ. bolt the plate to the engine with bolt in from engine side. Then bolt up tranny to adapter once installed. Drilling hte EJ holes is no big deal as there is plenty of room for nuts later if I had to install this enfgine back to an EJ trans. Gotta cut the bolts to excactly the right length though, that way they don't protrude through the plate and push the whole deal apart.

I think subaru rear axles like to be at a really "proud" stance. It is always the axle under compression that hyper extends, so having the axle start really jackd up high means it compresses not so far up into the body. So when it's under compression and delivering power, it will be at a relatively straight or "flat" angle. Can't wait to wheel with you again. See you tommorow at Sand Lake

All set.... I got one question though.. Is there a seperate permit fee for the park we are going to.....or does the Standard OHV permit cover it?

ugh.......that sucks. I just got the electronics in my now "non-turbo" 89 GL with MPFI working sweet. New injector pigtails, CTS connector, AAV connector. Man it runs smooth........... Except for the Fackin Cracked head(leaking water into exhaust) and the low oil pressure to the passener side bank (means either 2 or 3 rod bearing is toast) . Motor runs good, but is loud (TOD) and burns coolant and gets hot. How much to ship to Oregon LOL!

So, I installed a diode on that circuit. And all is fine. Except now I have 24v on that wire. Still runs great. Any more thoughts? That wire is labeled "back-up power supply" in the FSM. And it had 12v on it before I wired it to fuse 12v through a diode (sucsesfully preventing the backfeed but....) Could that wire be supposed to actually feed power to something else ? Chux, I will definately be checking my grounds.

Most EJ shafts I've seen are a 2 piece bolted flange behind the carrier bearing. At any rate you'd still use your EA rear section and bolt a custom length front section to it.