Gloyale

The power for the Anti-Diesel solenoid comes from the Fuel Pump Control Unit. No power is sent out to the Fuel pump, The choke, or the Anti-Diesel Sol. until an igniton pulse is detected (tach signal) You won't hear any "click" just turnng the key on. If you want to test the solenoid, just put 12v to it's wire directly and see if it clicks. FWIW, if the car runs fine, and shuts off fine(no dieseling)......then the ADS is working.

Dude. Punctuation. Please.

Did you pull the Venturi horns and replace the tiny o-ring that seals them to the carb body? At idle, if the o-ring there leaks, there isn't enough venturi effect to pull through the idle circuit. You have to grab the horn with pliers, and pull it up. Keep track of the roll pin that keeps it seated. Install the new o-ring, insert the horn in it's seat, and then reinsert the roll pin.

You'll need to oval out the bolt holes on the EA82 Flexplate to fit onto the EJ crank. It should work, although I don't know of anyone who's done it.

I used an EJ18 instead of an EJ22 for my swap into my 84 GL. My harness, ECU, and intake are all from a EJ22.....it all works toghether just the same as a 2.2 longblock would. Don't be confused, this isn't the older 2 belt motor. The EJ18 is essentially identical to the EJ22 except for piston size. Flywheel and Adapter plate will be needed to bolt to the 5 spd D/R. Go ahead and do the swap. Once the wiring is all done, you will be able to drop a 2.2 in there bolt your intake to it. FWIW, IMO, the EJ18 has plenty of power for a light old gen.

Huh, I just used narrow offset front wheels and wide offset rear wheels.

Hole in top of Passenger side head for EGR would be on the wrong side.

So, I have seen threads mentioning people using EA82 control arms and axles on there EA81s. How are people doing this? I mean what about the different angle between the 2 arms. EA81 arms sweep backwards from the pivot while EA82 arms go straight out. I used a complete EA82 front crossmember, so the whole front end carried over with no other mods. But how are all of you dong it without swapping crossmembers?

I like Welded for some things. It definately makes for a more unstoppable wheeler. But I got tired of swapping in and out my rear axle. I Put my Open diff back in. Nice thing about it with my lifted GL, is 7 bolts and 2 pins and the diff can be swapped back out. So I'll carry the Welded diff in the cargo area if I go somewhere hardcore and swap it out before the trail. But for winter espescially, I Preffer open so I can keep both axles in adn be ready to use my 4wd at a moments notice. (having Dual front Ebrakes helps alot too)

OUtback struts with your Imp tophats. You could get Forrester tophatas for a tad extra lift. But Forrester struts don't have quite as much room to the spring perch.

I decked mine, .005 Stock compression. Never boosted over 10. The last time I built this particular engine, I actually swapped out SPFI pistons and ran it NON-turbo, and the head still cracked. The MPFI heads are just weak, and don't flow well for cooling. PLUS the oiling pattern of the EA82 in general leads to a situation where if either #2 or #3 rod bearing get any play, you lose oil pressure to the Passenger side (#1#3) head and camshafts. From there it's chronic TOD from that side until the rod finally lets go. Anyone here who remebers 4 years ago telling me "you'll give up on those EA82s" ................... ...............you were right.

No you don't need to. Unless seeing the unused PRND21 bothers you. And actually, you will want to pull the light from the "N" display. This is because if you wire in you're neutral switch properly, it will light that light every time you aren't in Neutral.

No, not really.......but what is the point of putting new heads and head gaskets for like the 5th time for me with this engine. Keeps blowing them......or even if it holds......the head cracks. I'm sick of paying to have them welded. I really wanted to keep it going. I just got the Electrical side of it running sweet (all new connectors in the engine bay.....new injectors.....spider intake) But it all seems like too much work to do over and over when I have a 96 Outback donor car sitting outside waitng to have it's engine and harness pulled.

Some models built here in Indiana, some built in Gunma Japan. For instance, My moms old 96 OBW, had a single port....Indiana built. My friends (4Tes) 97 Legacy Brighton, has a dual port......Japan built. IMO, the Single Port 2.2 has slightly more torque....and Roller Cam rockers

The large wire of the 3 plug type is mearly a splice off of the main battery feed that bolts to the terminal. Literally the wire goes about six inches back into the harness and is spliced to the big power lead. In the 2 plug I believe the connection is made internally, so just eliminate the big wire and splice the other 2 (yellow, through diode to ECU IG., BW to charge light in your original harness) Someone correct me if I'm wrong but this is my first thoughts.

I did one last year. Damn thing cracked a head AGAIN......I'm done. 96 Outback 2.2 going in. EA82T goes to recyclers. yup almost $1000 bucks of maching and new bearings and rings seals........garbage.

Those Ebay listings notoriusly overstate what somethiong will fit. 95, 96 = One piece lights 97,98 = Two piece 99 = Slightly different one piece again.

Here's the rest of the pics I took on Sunday. Group shot from a couple angles. We had almost every Generation represented. Missing a 1st and a 3rd gen Legacy (There was afirst gen there, but MrGLegacy had to take "Clifford" home with his own smoked clutch) Here is the 1600 DL 4wd stuck, with TeamCF hooked to him, hanging on the rope (couldn't ppull him, couldn't back up to slack the rope to release:rolleyes:) Once TeamCF got moved, this guy (sorry don't remember) was able to get in front and pull the little hatch. Didn't help me much.....my clutch was so gone, I couldn't even pull FORWARD from this spot. This was pretty much where I last saw everyone. If you look close, the little 1st gen brat is behind them getting stuck and about to be washed out with the tide. LOL CMiller towed me off the sand and 4Tes gave me a ride back to Corvallis.

Lucky for me the Battery is brand new, 84 month. Alternator is also brand new, so I was kinda freaking out thinking the darn thing was junk and had failed.....but it was just the belt.

So the other day I take my EJ powered wagon on a road trip. Bout a 80 mile round trip to go look at a cheap Legacy for another donor/swap car. 25 miles from home, I get onto Interstate 5. I accelerate hard, relishing the EJ powerband even with the 30" tires. All of a sudden, my dash lights up like christmas. Charge light, stop lamp, the works. Car continued to run just fine though.....And being in the middle of nowhere, i decide to keep driving till the next exit....about 12 miles. Finally exit....and as I get out to pop the hood I figure, gee I wonder if the Alt. belt just gave out? Well I open the hood to see this...... Damn....I knew I should have put a lock washer on that(it's supposed to have one) So what now? Well, I figure "hey, maybe I'll be lucky, and the pulley will still be down there on the skidplate"..... Sure enough..... Then I think....."damn......I'll bet the nuts gone though....I wonder......wait....holy cow it's under there too!" Put it all back toghether.......drove home. Replaced nut with a OE subaru PS acorn nut and lockwasher.

You just used EA82 Control arms? Not the whole crossmember? How did you adjust for the different angle? EA81 arm angles backward from the crossmember, while the EA82 arms go straight out? PIcs? Here's what I did. Whole EA82 crossmember, control arms, and radius rods(bolted rigth to the original EA81 radius rod mounts.) EA82 crossmember modified to bolt(and welded) to my lift blocks. Lift block unbolt from stock EA81 location. Body of car unmodified, all the adaption is in the lift blocks.

Buy a header for a 2.5 anything. It will be dual port. Honestly, I don't even think you will find headers for sale for single port, so don't worry so much.

I am personally a fan of just redrilling the wheels. Drilling more holes into a cast piece is risky to me. Plus you have to drill twice as many holes, and you need to grind down the odd surface on the back side of the hub to get the studs to fit right. To this day, I've never seen a 4 lug Subaru hub "fail" or lose studs or rip the center of the wheel or anything. 4 studs, espescially that widely spaced are plenty strong. Fully loaded, with an EJ, my lifted subaru weighs 3300 lbs. Hardly a need for Six wheel studs. Drilling wheels is easy too. Just knock 2 studs out of an old hub and bolt it up to the six lug you want to redrill. Then drill you're hole through the 2 knocked out stud holes in the hub. This method has yielded very precisely lined up holes. So nice that the wheel stud slips excactly thought he holes with no slop. I don't bevel the redrill holes. I just use "open" lugnuts upside down, so the flat part tightens against the rim, instead of the bevel. The 2 original holes I use the regular lugnuts. Another nice thing about redrilling wheels is if you f..k up, you can just rotate and redrill between 2 other wheel holes, up to 3 times. The only reason in my mind to redrill hubs to six lug, would be to run alloy wheels, which can't be easily redrilled.

It's COMPLETELY different from a 350, which is Iron through and through. These engines have a thin Iron sleeve down the block. The force of boring against it is likely to break it loose and spin it. I know Ram and CCR do it....they are pros.....it isn't impossible......but it ussually isn't needed for a daily driver type motor. BTW, Which is it you want? reliable or powerful? you won't get both out of this motor. You definately could with an EJ. Not sure why you are so sour on them.....but they are superior to the EA series in every way......you really should consider it.

SOunds right considering you have to remove the timing belts to change the water pump.