Gloyale

Can you tell us the year of this car? You might have the distributor out of the wrong model in there. Early models can use a conventional 2 wire carb disty, but if it is a later model, it must use the 4 wire Crank Angle Sensor type distributor.

It can. Ussually they won't start when hot. But if the engine doesn't have a proper temp reading, it can have a hard time getting the right mixture to fire. Try simply unplugging it, that will make it default to a fairly rich setting and should fire if the CTS is the problem. Just for posterity I will mention to check that the fuel supply line is hooked up to the correct tube. Foward most, and on top. NOT the one coming out of the pressure regulator.

They all had EGR valves. If it doesn't have an ECU, it isn't a California car. All california cars used the ECU and *feedback* carb to compensate for alltitude. Cali car wouldn't have the High altitude modification sticker. The *feedback* carbs use duty solenoids to regulate mixture so no extra *high altitude* stuff would be needed. The high altitude cars were all 49 st. models, and had a pressure sensative chamber that let through a variable amount of air into the primary air bleed to adjust mixture. It is mearly *Tee-d* into the main and slow bleed lines, and lets a small amount of extra air in at high altitude. 2 vac lines and on small chamber/valve, mounted to the fenderwell. Otherwise the carbs and whole systems are the same, High altitude or not. No difference in Jet size between H/A or non.

Since '80 or '81, all of them. Up until hydro clutches in 97

The SOHC 2.5 can bend valves, but doesn't always. It would proably be worth it to get a new timing belt set and install it. Then run the car, do a compression/leakdown check. I know of several people who have had SOHC 2.5 belts break, and still have fine running cars. If there was collison, and damage that needs repaired, it would likely be cheapest and most straight forward to repair the heads, and maybe replace pistons(prolly not). Pistons can be replaced without splitting the block. You will need the new belt set for whatever engine you reinstall, so you might as well try it.

Make sure the fuel supply is going to the correct hose. NOT the one coming straight out of the pressure regulator. IIRC the one you want to hook the supply to is *higher* and in the center of the group of three fuel lines there (the 1 skinny is the vent line) the other larger one goes to the return, out of the regulator.

If you have clutch, you probably just set the hillholder. it isn't supposed to operate on level or downhill slopes, but backing up and stopping suddenly makes the check ball roll to the back of the valve, just as if pointed uphill. The brakes probably released when you let off the clutch to get the car to drive, and you coincidentally thought it was the *pumping* of the pedal that made it go away.

My 87 USDM FSM shows the same specs for 87 NA MPFI as the 88-89. 16-60-60-16 Although the markings are different. For 87 it's *A* in the A mark, 1 ring at the *B* mark, and 2 rings at the *C* mark I don't have an 88 XT FSM. For 89 it's *A* in the A mark, None in the *B* spot, and 1 line in the *C* spot. Don't know if that helps.

You are way to young to start letting your girlfriend tell you what you can and can't do.

Yeah, they can be machined. In fact if you look at the 3.9 ring gear fromt he D/R it is beveled at the edge to clear the D/R gears. Problem is, they machine it BEFORE hardening the steel. I had a good machinist here try it, and he got about .150" before his tool started deflecting against the teeth. Good news is, that may be enough if we also take about .050 off of the D/R shift collar.

there should be a dimmer switch, it may be turned down. Or the Alternator voltage may be low, or not getting to the dash fully. But honestly those orange Digital Dashes are really hard to see in the sun. The shop is full of crap, they don't dim over time.

+100 VC units rarely fail, espescially with that low milage. 50k is right in the range of CV failure though, espescially if the boot has been torn before.

TCU mearly reads the speedo signal. It doesn't generate it or take any part in sending it on to the Dash. Signal goes straight from sensor to dash. With a parallel wire spliced on to carry signal to ECU, and also TCU on 4EAT equiped cars. They both just read the Data. Yes, gear ratios are the reason for the different sensors and displays. drive gears on the sensor are specific to the final drive of the trans. They are even color coded if you take apart the trans to look at the drive gear on the diff.

I suspect Coolant temp sensor. When they short out to ground, the signal the ECU gets is interpreted as a REALLY warm engine, and the ECU tries a lean starting map. Easy test is to simply unplug it (CTS) and try to start the car. It will give you a CEL but should start, rich.

the 2 behind the radio mightgo toghether and be the fan wires. But the other single wires are tap ports for options. Cruise control and A/C if I am not mistaken.

It is a yellow/red stripe wire. You should be able to look up the pin at the ECU if you have an FSM. Or search here. The signal should be the same. 4 pulse per revolution. Just hook up the loyale wire up to the 2.2 ECU

Yup, 5th can be pressed off easily. But be careful of the shift collar and synchro set-up. I lost one of the 3 sliders and ended up having to order one ($2.51) from subaru and wait. Then of course I found the lost one hiding inside the cleaned and waiting AWD transfer section. They can really fly if you let em just spring outta there.

Yup, 5th can be pressed off easily. But be careful of the shift collar and synchro set-up. I lost one of the 3 sliders and ended up having to order one ($2.51) from subaru and wait. Then of course I found the lost one hiding inside the cleaned and waiting AWD transfer section. They can really fly if you let em just spring outta there.

Sweet guys, thanks for the help. I will have a chance to play with it later in the week. BTW it is not tektronics. It is a Telequipment. Model S54A Soem of the probes I have for it are tektronics

The camber adjustment is so slight, you can't really screw it up. Absolute worst case will be slightly more tire wear. In all likelyhood, you won't notice any problem. Set the camber as far negative you can, and you will be fine.

It is an on demand one way valve. It has a ball that rolls backward in a tube to block a hole. Only when the front of the car is *uphill*, otherwise it rolls forward away fro the valve seat. There is a pin protruding though the hole to keep the ball from seating when the clutch is out, but when the cable is pulled, the pin drops away, and the ball blocks the hole. If you also hit the brakes, now the braking force is trapped. It can't generate any braking force, only retain force generated by the Master cyl.

The pumps have a nozzle with nothched tabs that grab into the hole. It is the proper tool for the job. the easiest way. If it is too complicted for you then you are SOL

I was worried about machining down the ring gear. Seems the outside edge is the leading part of the tooth face as the car goes forward. I suppose if it was done with precision.zzz:Flame: As far as final gearing, I'm planning on Standard EA82 5th gear, 4.11..........pushing 235/75/15 Maxxis Bighorns:grin:

Careful measuring with a micrometer can eliminate the need for plastigauge. In fact if your machine shop has your bearings, crank , and block, they should be checking all that while doing any machine work. The one thing I would definately do if you have a 2.5 case split, is to have the decks surfaced. EJs are easier to split than EA motors. Better O-rings. I'd say go for it. It is satisfying when you are done. Not really that hard. Worst part is pulling the wrist pins if they are stubborn. You'll need to fashion a *hook* and use a slide-hammer

Good summary. Additionally they have to conduct those 100,000 volt pulses, with absolutely no *lag* or delay. THOUSANDS OF TIMES PER MINUTE! I'd say that the most common thing I do to restore power to an engine is to clean the carbon off of vavles, and piston crowns. (assuming rings and all else are still decent) I do this every single time I have an engine apart for head gaskets. I set the piston slightly below the deck, and use a wire wheel on the end of a drill to clean it's head. Fine, soft bristle, won't scratch the iron cylinder walls, but will ussually get all the carbon. Sometimes I have to take a screwdriver to crevices in valve notches and such. WD-40 aids the process.