Gloyale

How often does your *always* include? A couple on you're own car? Hope you're luck holds. Breaking the bolt is the easy one. At least then you have a chance at salvaging your hub/knuckle. Now, when you have a casting crack and break as you reassemble, that is when it get's really fun.

Could be a faulty Brake booster.

I usually use a staple, bent straight.

I guess I meant that the actual pinion head was not a seperate piece. It is integral to the configuration of the FT4wd and AWD bowes. So just the actual pinion teeth couldn't be simply swapped onto the EA D/R shaft.

A few differences of note between trans. EJ 1-2 shift collar and fork are about an 1/16 of an inch wider than standard D/R EA box. 3-4 shift collar has a notch to clear the enlarged Speedo gear section of the Pinion shaft. With a 4.11 ring and pinion installed in the EA D/R case, there is about 1/16 in. negative clearance issue (it hits) between the Hi/Lo shift collar and the very outside edge of the Ring gear teeth.

Don't EVER buy a car without a title. I won't even take a car for free without a title. The Junkyard won't take them for scrap without one. YOu end up having to cut up the whole damn car into pieces and still find the right scrap yard before you can get rid of it.

I recommend against this. Espescially in a rust belt car. 2 bad things can happen: 1. Pinch bolt breaks off. Then you are faced with a difficult removal. 2. The casting can crack from being pried open, and clamped too many times. I HAVE HAD IT HAPPEN. Plus, wedging that knuckle apart and getting the ball joint to fall out is alot more work in the rust belt, and could be near impossible. I NEVER disturb that joint unless it is time to replace it, or the knuckle must come off for pressing a bearing or something. I recommend removing the upper strut bolts. The bolts are big, 19mm, so they are less likely to break. And you can get an impact on them easily. Mark there position, or just try to line up the *shadow* of the original bolt position. If all else fails, set the camber as far negative as possible. It will give you good handling, and isn't drastic enough that it will cause tire wear.

before driving cross country, you would want to be sure of when the timing belts were last changed. More than 30-40K miles ago would be to long to trust for the type of travel you are talking about. You would also want to make sure it is not loosing any coolant, all the CV axles are good with intact boots, and of course change the oil. Even if it isn't leaking, if the coolant hoses are are old and crappy you should consider having them changed for summer road tripping.

Well, I ended up cracking it back open. It is indeed a 4.11. Although the ratios of 2nd-5th gear are not the ratios that are speced for all the legacy trans. This one has the taller gearing of the early impreza (same gears as a GL 5spd.) So, next thread will be about our attempt at creating a hybrid 4.11, AWD D/R. There are a few snags already, but I believe we will make it work.

An EA82T is as crappy as the owner lets it be. Meaning if you build up a good one, with no cracks, a good radiator, and a working fan, you should be able to get alot of like out of it. Still, it requires alot of work that most sane people don't want to do. Money is where the equaltion start to really tilt towards sucky. They aren't worth crap, but they have expensive hard to find parts.

Black connectors are for Stored codes Green connectors will put the Car and ECU through a self diagnosis*. * you must rev the engine over 2000k rpm for 40 secs and drive the vehichle over 1mph for the cycle to complete and the codes to be outputed.

Parts in red are really the same piece, so Whichever driven shaft you use, that will determine the ring and pinion ratio.

thanks for the suggestions. I do believe the scope is a tektronics. It's at the shop I understand what the graph displays. I am just a bit unsure of what some of the control settings. And I don't to hook it up in a way that is going to fry anything.

Oh yeah, an older or newer (up to early 98) trans should bolt in and even have the same connectors from what I have seen. I just wanted to make sure he knew there is a gear ratio difference between 90,91 and the 92-94 Trans ID is one of the bains of my existance right now.

Does it have a good Subaru OEM thermostat in it?

need to remove the AC tensioner and the crank pulley. Any thing else, like PS pump and alternator is optional. I would recomend removing the whole radiator, not just the fans. You will need to drain the sytem anyway to replace pump, and it opens up ALOT more room.

With all that coolant everywhere, and the fact you heard *grinding* before the leak, you definately need to replacve the timing belt. It isn't a matter of inspecting it, you can pressume it is hosed.

Look above the axle on the passenger side. the dipstick is there. Some screw in, some just slide. Some have an extension and others are right *on* the case But all of the automatics, the dipstick for the trans is on the passenger side, above and slightly behind where the axle comes out.

bump. Nobody?

No need to remove the plugs, just the plug wires. Don't even attemot this job unitl you have gone and bought a 10mm ratcheting gear wrench. I would consider waiting until some other type of service that requires engine removal though(clutch, headgasket). That is if the leaks aren't bad.

Yeah, I would bet you have a CV blown. The rear won't drive the car unless you were to rev it way up, causeing the Viscous centrer diff to heat and *lock* and transfer drive rearward. Even then, the VLSD is only capable of sending so much power through, so you might not even be able to get it moving much at all. Espescially if your VLSD center is worn.

Not really..... 90, 91 legacy had 4.11 final ratio 92-94 legacy had 3.90 final ratio That is why 90,91 models feel *quicker* and more powerful.

You're water pump has died and probablly taken you're timing belt with it. Replacing the Waterpump and the belt and any worn idlers, and installing new seal should be done at the same time. should be well under $300 to fix if you are mechanically inclined. If you pay a shop I would estimate between $400-700 depending on the place.

No, not inner diameter. jk Seriously, I have a trans on my bench I got with a big batch of junk. It is an EJ AWD 5spd. I was told it was from an early outback, and I need a replacement trans for one of those. I assumed it was what I was told, and installed all new bearings and seals in it and bolted it all back toghether. THEN...it occured to me to double check the application, so I look up the trans #, problem is, I don't find that excact # on the charts. Can anyone tell me the original applicaation for this trans? And Gear ratio? I really don't want to split her open again and count ring and pinion teeth. # is 3V-TY752VA2AA thanks